It's not a kit. I pieced it out.Where do they list the prices?
It's not a kit. I pieced it out.Where do they list the prices?
Awesome!!! Thanks, I'll definitely need to have a closer look now! That's a friggin good price!It's not a kit. I pieced it out.
Nothing that couldn't be solved though...Doh! Good catch oh builder of Chevy big blocks! F it, call Icon and have some made. The longer cranks are the same price at 440source.
Pickup interference above 4.15, if you use Mopar rods. Use a crank with 2.2 rod journals for BBC rods, 4 3/8 fits.Very very interesting!
What about oil pickup clearance? I've read somewhere that above 4.15 stroke you're looking at interfering with the oil pickup?
Also BB chev Pistons. Interesting but wouldn't I have issues with the valve reliefs?
I'm definitely going to have to dig around the 440 source site now. I mean that's a long arm there. Can you say 500 ft lb at 2500 rpm?Pickup interference above 4.15, if you use Mopar rods. Use a crank with 2.2 rod journals for BBC rods, 4 3/8 fits.
Haha since when is it about need? I wanna do a 4wd burnout with 37's. The parts will include front and rear d60 axles. Transfer case TBD.
13 year old inner self visionary vs reality are often very different matters37's and a rear D60 with enough power for a 4wd burnout? Might want to rethink that rear D60, get a cheap 14BFF instead, that 60 won't last if that's the abuse it sees. (Also a Jeep guy here, broken many axles)
Yeah the problem is I know Jack about real head porting. Beyond mild bowl blending and maybe a little port matching I'd get out of my depth real quickMopar Muscle did some comprehensive testing...& porting.... on the BB production heads. I still have the magazines. From what I recall, once ported they were all pretty close in flow #s.
NopeDon't know if I missed it, do you already have a 440 crank and rods?
Just curious
Stay away from the 4.150 crank in the low decks unless you use something shorter than the 6.76 rod. There’s not enough CD on the piston for any real longevity out of the rings (I know I ran one). I’m partial to the 512 kits myself if spending the money ( I’ve built 3 of them with source kits). Great combo, big torque, drops right into the block with just a touch off the oil pump boss, and they don’t cost anymore than the smaller motors. You may be able to peice a 451 together slightly cheaper but it’ll take some leg work.
Doesn't the 512 use the 4.15 crank though?
If you have a crank grinder in your area a stock iron headed, factory 3.75" stroke crank 451" is the least expensive. You can use factory rods, etc.
The next step up would be 440 source heads with the springs, guides and valve job checked.
If you wanted more cheap cubes a factory 3.75" crank can be offset ground to 3.915" to make 470" with a 6.535" BBC rod.
If you didn't want to use a factory crank you can go aftermarket at 4.15" or 4.25" stroke/2.200" BBC rod journal with a variety or rods and shelf pistons available. The 4.15" stroke would allow for more oil pickup clearance if you are using an internal oil pump pickup.
The 4.15" stroke crank has a very similar compression height (or CD or CH) to a stock Chevrolet LS3. Nothing to worry about unless you have other problems in my experience.
what did you use for pistons, rod length ?I built a 523 stroker in 1980, waaaaaaaaaaaay before any of the stroker kits were available. I used a 440 crank welded up for a 4.375" stroke.
There's no way this would make sense these days with the off the shelf stuff available. But still very cool that you were doing this stuff back in the day! Hat's off to you!I built a 523 stroker in 1980, waaaaaaaaaaaay before any of the stroker kits were available. I used a 440 crank welded up for a 4.375" stroke.