E-street vs Promaxx vs 440 Source

Which head ?

  • E-street

    Votes: 5 16.7%

  • Promaxx

    Votes: 9 30.0%

  • 440 Source

    Votes: 9 30.0%

  • Stick to your 452's, and do a little work

    Votes: 7 23.3%
  • Total voters
    30
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j par said:
@318willrun they just keep trying to poke the bear... LOL... Again I say it and I'm a troublemaker... I haven't any idea how they got to grumpy..:realcrazy:.
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I got some perspectives (and thanks to those that shared). Again, I'm certain others out there have/are wondering the same as I. As of today, unless something substantial should come forth, I know the direction I'll head (no pun intended). This thread got sideways and it's water's muddied. No need for me to stick around in it, so I'm head'n out :)
 
318willrun, your inbox is full. Sidewinder and promaxx are the same casting. Both are finished in the United States. Sidewinder is made to order. $895.00 is bare with valves. I believe it is $200.00 more complete depending on your choice of springs.
 
Tbro said:
318willrun, your inbox is full. Sidewinder and promaxx are the same casting. Both are finished in the United States. Sidewinder is made to order. $895.00 is bare with valves. I believe it is $200.00 more complete depending on your choice of springs.
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yes, the chinese heads are all off the same castings - Promaxx, Sidewinder, 440source. The major difference is the valve job and quality of work that goes into the casting. As for QA of the Sidewinders, I do not know. They could be very good. But, Sidewinders flow about 235 cfm @ .400 lift, the Promaxx 254 @ 400 lift. I believe Promaxx bowl-blends and all heads have 5 angle valve job.
 
318willrun said:
yes, the chinese heads are all off the same castings - Promaxx, Sidewinder, 440source. The major difference is the valve job and quality of work that goes into the casting. As for QA of the Sidewinders, I do not know. They could be very good. But, Sidewinders flow about 235 cfm @ .400 lift, the Promaxx 254 @ 400 lift. I believe Promaxx bowl-blends and all heads have 5 angle valve job.
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I would go with all except source having the same casting. Freeze plug, straight spark plug etc. probably close but not exact.Swingn’……
 
Swingn’71 said:
I would go with all except source having the same casting. Freeze plug, straight spark plug etc. probably close but not exact.Swingn’……
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I ve got pro max /rpm / indy /tf240s all tk racers.All heads must go to a machine shop when you buy em.trick f s are the bargain but don’t bolt them on
This is a race forum None of your heads in ? are good for over 451 cubes anyhow
Most street cars aren’t any count over 600 horse not to mention most of u guys have a mess under your vcovers

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j par said:
If I ever do a 440 the very first thing will be a stoker kit... 512 cubic inches...
After that I'd play with heads ..
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Im Looking at 400 to 500 kits. I plant to turbo it later using Aluminum heads and
And pistons to around 9.5 compression, using around 8 lbs If boost.with 93 pump gas. Do you think 9.5 will work. ?
 
Swingn’71 said:
I would go with all except source having the same casting. Freeze plug, straight spark plug etc. probably close but not exact.Swingn’……
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Exactly.
The Stealth Head is it’s own casting, although the basic port configuration is very similar to the others(i.e. another copy of the RPM heads).
Compared to the other import castings, I actually prefer the port openings of the Stealths on both intake and exhaust.
It’s not a big thing either way......but they aren’t the same.
 
PRH said:
Exactly.
The Stealth Head is it’s own casting, although the basic port configuration is very similar to the others(i.e. another copy of the RPM heads).
Compared to the other import castings, I actually prefer the port openings of the Stealths on both intake and exhaust.
It’s not a big thing either way......but they aren’t the same.
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page 9 - and we are finally getting some details on differences between the heads, ports and perhaps an opinion on what may be a preference. :)
 
318willrun said:
page 9 - and we are finally getting some details on differences between the heads, ports and perhaps an opinion on what may be a preference. :)
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I guess it wasn't made clear enough on page 2 post #36.
For my own motor?
Of those three choices........ No question I’d use Ede heads.
 
PRH said:
I guess it wasn't made clear enough on page 2 post #36.
For my own motor?
Of those three choices........ No question I’d use Ede heads.
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Yes, you said E-streets. But I'm looking for any differences and things to know before making selection. Again, not just for me but for any that may reference this thread in the search bar a year from now.... unfortunately it was pushed off the rails so I now doubt a person will sift through muddy waters looking for hidden coins... But thanks for sharing, the photos help! :)
 
PRH said:
I guess it wasn't made clear enough on page 2 post #36.
For my own motor?
Of those three choices........ No question I’d use Ede heads.
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I don't know if you took the time to see Ed's findings on the E-street heads (not so much the TF), and if you would care to share your opinions on what Ed says, that'd be great.
 
318willrun said:
Yes, you said E-streets. But I'm looking for any differences and things to know before making selection. Again, not just for me but for any that may reference this thread in the search bar a year from now.... unfortunately it was pushed off the rails so I now doubt a person will sift through muddy waters looking for hidden coins... But thanks for sharing, the photos help! :)
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I repeat: if it was easy, everyone would have one ..
 
I’m not going to comment on another shops findings.
I’ve been preparing BBM Ede heads since they first came out about 20 years ago.
I’m pretty sure I was the first one to post independent flow and dyno results for them on Moparts back then.
I’ve done over 130 sets of them.
I’ve seen nothing in any of those heads that would keep me from using them in the future.
 
PRH said:
I’m not going to comment on another shops findings.
I’ve been preparing BBM Ede heads since they first came out about 20 years ago.
I’m pretty sure I was the first one to post independent flow and dyno results for them on Moparts back then.
I’ve done over 130 sets of them.
I’ve seen nothing in any of those heads that would keep me from using them in the future.
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I understand and respect that. As far as castings, have you seen much difference between the E-street and RPM ? My biggest concern was the fire ring falling inside the chamber on the one cylinder, but I'm not sure of the gasket used....
 
As has been posted in numerous Mopar forums on the net......

The current E street heads only have one component that is different than the RPM head. One.
The valves.
All the other parts used are the exact same parts........including the castings themselves.
Springs, retainers, locks, seals, spring cups....... for the BBM heads...... same exact parts for RPM and E street.

There are two castings...... the 75cc casting, and the 84cc casting.
The 84 cc E street has straight spark plugs.
This is just a different machining operation, not a different casting.
Edelbrock no longer uses powdered metal seats.

There is NO brand/manufacturer of heads that is exempt from having something not be 100%.
Not TF, AFR, Dart, Brodix...... Edelbrock.......no one.
If you bolt them on right ootb, there is a chance you will have an issue.

It’s no different than making sure the new crank and rods one buys are sized correctly.

That being said, I rarely ever see something in a new set of heads that’s so screwed up it’ll cause a serious failure.
Sure, there are often things that “could be better”.
For those that want those items taken care of....... have the heads looked over/prepped by a shop you trust.
 
I remember calling a shop here locally that specializes in cylinder heads and asking to have my new Speedmaster has looked at and the guy kind of laughed and said he wished he could sell brand new head that needed to be looked at....
I don't see the op as a potential machine shop customer...
 
PRH said:
As has been posted in numerous Mopar forums on the net......

The current E street heads only have one component that is different than the RPM head. One.
The valves.
All the other parts used are the exact same parts........including the castings themselves.
Springs, retainers, locks, seals, spring cups....... for the BBM heads...... same exact parts for RPM and E street.

There are two castings...... the 75cc casting, and the 84cc casting.
The 84 cc E street has straight spark plugs.
This is just a different machining operation, not a different casting.
Edelbrock no longer uses powdered metal seats.

There is NO brand/manufacturer of heads that is exempt from having something not be 100%.
Not TF, AFR, Dart, Brodix...... Edelbrock.......no one.
If you bolt them on right ootb, there is a chance you will have an issue.

It’s no different than making sure the new crank and rods one buys are sized correctly.

That being said, I rarely ever see something in a new set of heads that’s so screwed up it’ll cause a serious failure.
Sure, there are often things that “could be better”.
For those that want those items taken care of....... have the heads looked over/prepped by a shop you trust.
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Thank you. Jegs just offered me a set of E-streets for a 100 bucks off... LOL and they would ship today. As of now, I'm getting my ducks in a row, and buying parts here and there.
 
j par said:
I remember calling a shop here locally that specializes in cylinder heads and asking to have my new Speedmaster has looked at and the guy kind of laughed and said he wished he could sell brand new head that needed to be looked at....
I don't see the op as a potential machine shop customer...
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i will inspect the heads myself at home. I do go to machine shops for things I cannot do at home.
 
And then...... sometimes even heads that have been built at a shop.......have things screwed up.
Here’s a set of SBM RPM heads built from bare castings that someone sent me to look over.
Intake and exhaust valves not the same OAL..... along with also having a different tip length.
So, noticeable spread in tip height..... and an even a bigger spread in installed height.
Then there was also “that one spring”......

41460AFD-0C24-4FF6-A739-0731A7CB1651.jpeg


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9EBFD0E2-BF42-430B-B389-DD3374107B7E.png
 
PRH said:
And then...... sometimes even heads that have been built at a shop.......have things screwed up.
Here’s a set of SBM RPM heads built from bare castings that someone sent me to look over.
Intake and exhaust valves not the same OAL..... along with also having a different tip length.
So, noticeable spread in tip height..... and an even a bigger spread in installed height.
Then there was also “that one spring”......

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View attachment 1715849699

View attachment 1715849700
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I agree. I had a set of hardened seats w/new guides/valves installed in a pair of 906's. One head, every exhaust valve would show light around the valve with a flashlight down the port (half moon sliver), and alcohol poured out of it like a fountain. Took me 4 hours to get the valves to seal with my lapper.
 
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