Atf for 904/999 transmission

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I have been using the mopar atf+4 in my 999 torqueflite. It is all original only thing I did was take it apart clean the valve body and install a shift kit. Im running a boss hogg converter. Im about to replace my transmission pan gasket for the 4th time at 8 dollars a quart atf4 is getting really expensive can I use the cheaper dextron stuff or should i stick to atf4?
 
With a shift kit, old school technique my dad always told me he ran Type F in his 904s and 727s.
I run that in my Valiant when I installed a shift kit and rebuilt it. More crisper shifts.
 
I always use Type F. It is suggested in mopar performance tips and tricks . ATF+4 Is recommended electronic controlled shift servos.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I have been using the mopar atf+4 in my 999 torqueflite. It is all original only thing I did was take it apart clean the valve body and install a shift kit. Im running a boss hogg converter. Im about to replace my transmission pan gasket for the 4th time at 8 dollars a quart atf4 is getting really expensive can I use the cheaper dextron stuff or should i stick to atf4?
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I had the same question on a 904 and after researching the web, found out type F works and you can blend it with ATF 3/4 to get crisper or smoother shifts. More ATF 3 = smooth, more Type F = crisp.
 
Of just use the stuff labled ATF. if you look at the bottle you will see it covers dextron 3 which is the original fluid for chrysler automatics until the overdrive unit came out.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Im about to replace my transmission pan gasket for the 4th time at 8 dollars a quart atf4 is getting really expensive can I use the cheaper dextron stuff or should i stick to atf4?
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If you are dropping the pan just for a gasket change and if the fluid doesn't have many miles on it, why replace it with new. Drain it into a clean pan and put it back in.
 
For extreme duty type F is recommended. I used it in all my mopars with higher stall converters due to heat from converter slippage. Cheaper the race fluid.
 
Type F does firm up the shifts. Look on the back of a bottle of B&M Trick Shift. It says something like "Compatible woth Ford Type F", or some such. That's what it is. Where in the world did you get the ATF+4 recommendation?
 
burdar said:
If you are dropping the pan just for a gasket change and if the fluid doesn't have many miles on it, why replace it with new. Drain it into a clean pan and put it back in.
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I have to add more because alot has leaked out. I recovered 3 quarts from it. So I gotta buy something either way
 
RustyRatRod said:
Type F does firm up the shifts. Look on the back of a bottle of B&M Trick Shift. It says something like "Compatible woth Ford Type F", or some such. That's what it is. Where in the world did you get the ATF+4 recommendation?
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I can't remember Google i think I wanted to use mopar brand atf and atf4 was what I found that was compatible on the mopar brand
 
I haven't had an automatic without a drain plug in the pan. The first thing I do when changing the fluid and filter is put a drain plug in the pan.
Most of the time I just buy a nice cast aluminum pan.
CudaFactHackJob said:
10w motor oil.
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Yep, I usually add a quart to the type F fluid I use
 
fishmens67 said:
I haven't had an automatic without a drain plug in the pan. The first thing I do when changing the fluid and filter is put a drain plug in the pan.
Most of the time I just buy a nice cast aluminum pan.

Yep, I usually add a quart to the type F fluid I use
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Wait are yall being serious? I thought he was being facetious
 
Used F in my mopars and chevies for decades. See no reason to change now.
Just as an aside, I have heard racers using hydraulic system fluid, with great success. But that is usually for cars with LOTS of power, and LOTS of stall speed.
 
burdar said:
If you are dropping the pan just for a gasket change and if the fluid doesn't have many miles on it, why replace it with new. Drain it into a clean pan and put it back in.
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Strain through a auto paint filter to pull the crap out of there is any…
 
dartfreak75 said:
Wait are yall being serious? I thought he was being facetious
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I've known guy's using 10w or 20w oil but they were in powerglides. 8 sec rides. I really don't know as I haven't tried it myself, but they did it in fast cars and drove them on the street.
 
Check with Napa - they regularly run sales on their house brand Type F and Dex transmission fluids. If I recall, it was like $3.50/qt (about half off) a few months. I bought a bunch. I usually end up using whatever I've got on the shelf. It's not worth overthinking it.
 
Be careful what you buy I bought some house brand stuff for my hoist smelt just like old burnt fluid.
 
Just googled trans fluid (F) at Walmart. Considering that "name brand" type F is $13-14 a quart, and Walmart house brand is $18.50 a GALLON, I know what I am gonna try next time.
 
33IMP said:
Just googled trans fluid (F) at Walmart. Considering that "name brand" type F is $13-14 a quart, and Walmart house brand is $18.50 a GALLON, I know what I am gonna try next time.
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The 18 dollar stuff at Walmart is dextron 3 that's why I was wondering if its ok to run dextron
 
dartfreak75 said:
The 18 dollar stuff at Walmart is dextron 3 that's why I was wondering if its ok to run dextron
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I didn't see that it was dexron, I googled type F, and I assumed.... you know what happens when you assume.....
Still Walmart type f is $5.23, so still $21/gallon. Instead of over $50.
 
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