This one is April 09.
Orange = junk - agreed if it’s a newer one.
Chrome = disagree. Never an issue. I’ve had a couple of them on various cars without issue.
What ignition do you suggest.
I have had personally horrible luck with MSD and will not ever bother with them again. I have always had junk from them that has not ever last a year, except my first 6A box. Which sadly went with the truck I sold.
See post#12
Lol! Yes, very familiar....You DO know what WFO means right?
It is all of those "might"s that prompted Me to post this thread.I get the "don't run for extended times" etc but why do you need a other than street box in the first place?
Are you racing every day?
Electronics do not like being tied in parallel so IMHO every wire would need to be on a relay. The pickup wires MIGHT not take too kindly to a relay??
Also switching mid flight MIGHT be really bad, MIGHT fire a plug just by switching????
Seems like there are so many other alternatives.
1) Did the timing retard when switching to the Chrome box with more dwell?We ran the chrome box on the street with the correct ballast resistor with a blaster coil. I just had 2 resistors mounted and both an orange and chrome next to each other. Ended up just running the chrome and ultimately removed the orange. We didn't cook the coil but the car had 391 gears and some rpm a lot of the time!
Only ran 1 at a time. Just swapped ballast connectors and chrome box plug. Drove the he'll out of the car on the street. Probably made 30 strip runs. Ended up just leaving the chrome box in and pulled the old orange box. Bailed out a friend with a Summit Chinese set up. Ended up giving him an old Standard LX101 I had. Still have the orange box. Car is sold.1) Did the timing retard when switching to the Chrome box with more dwell?
2) I assume You just switched it at the track(or fave street venue) before racing, not on the fly?
3) Both boxes were spliced in parallel to the pickup coil?
Which ballast & coil....I`ll just pretend I never read this thread and continue to run chrome boxes that have worked fine for many, many years for street use. Don`t mind me, just passing through
Both cars have hotter coils and ballasts to match.Which ballast & coil....
Lol, understood, thx for Your input.Both cars have hotter coils and ballasts to match.
It would take hours to dig through. My folders on each car is about 2" thick. sorry
Yeah that's what I have and have always run. The good old Mopar electronic ignition and you know what? Now that I think about it, I've never had a failure.I`ll just pretend I never read this thread and continue to run chrome boxes that have worked fine for many, many years for street use. Don`t mind me, just passing through
You didn't ask me, but I have the Standard Blue Streak UC12X coil and Standard RU37 2 terminal resistor.Which ballast & coil....
I'll look up the specs on those, thx!You didn't ask me, but I have the Standard Blue Streak UC12X coil and Standard RU37 2 terminal resistor.
I musta missed it....or forgot. lol Post a link and I'll see what I can do. I did cut part of the under hood brace out of the way.I'll look up the specs on those, thx!
Hey! When You gonna post Vixen's specs in My Hood clearance thread?
Hood Clearance SurveyI musta missed it....or forgot. lol Post a link and I'll see what I can do. I did cut part of the under hood brace out of the way.
When I ran the MSE boxes, it learned the hard way (walking home) to leave the OE set up wired in for just incase. Which always happened to me.I've run the old $75 or less 6AL analog swap meet boxes with e-coil for years and never had a failure. Both cars have a 4 pin HEI installed that I can swap with a few connection changes to save the day and get home that I've never had to use.
There are new ones made by Pertronix, is that one of them? I haven’t grossed or read a complain by a Pertronix box yet.Run from these.
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When I ran the MSE boxes, it learned the hard way (walking home) to leave the OE set up wired in for just incase. Which always happened to me.