Parallel ignition systems, anybody tried running one?

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Killer6

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I was mulling over running a std. or DC Orange box parallel to a DC Chrome box system for the street, I have ideas,, but would like to hear from somebody who has done/tried this. Reasons being the Chrome box is supposed to be used with a .25ohm ballast & not below 2,000rpm for extended periods, idling at a cruise, the drive thru, traffic, etc ....
 
Having both hooked up at the same time ??? Or both mounted and just swapping plug from one to the other depending on driving condition?
 
Might take a lot of trouble, and might not be worth the "trouble."
 
I would use the old point dizzy and Pertonix III!

JMO
 
Circle track track use, nothing new. Two systems, toggle switch, A circuit, B circuit.
 
I sold my Gold Box and Chrome just for this reason. They are still good for nostalgic reasons in racing but not what is best for everyday Moparing!
 
1969383S said:
I sold my Gold Box and Chrome just for this reason. They are still good for nostalgic reasons in racing but not what is best for everyday Moparing!
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If it weren't for what seems to be quality issues everywhere now, I'd go for "newer" tech options, but it's this 'til I go full-on 'puterized so.....
 
MoparLeo said:
Having both hooked up at the same time ??? Or both mounted and just swapping plug from one to the other depending on driving condition?
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I want it to switch over on it's own, while operating the car..
 
Rather than all the nonsense, and I won't guarantee it will help performance, just put a switch on the throttle for WFO, and trigger a simple relay to bypass the ballast
 
Two comments.
- Use a GM HEI 4 pin module & E coil [ such as MSD #8207 ] & run 0.060" plug gaps.
That will do more than both of those systems. For even more 'oomph', use the MSD #83647 module or Summit copy.
- Using the Chrome box on the street will cook the coil from the increased current & dwell.
 
We ran the chrome box on the street with the correct ballast resistor with a blaster coil. I just had 2 resistors mounted and both an orange and chrome next to each other. Ended up just running the chrome and ultimately removed the orange. We didn't cook the coil but the car had 391 gears and some rpm a lot of the time!
 
:popcorn: I've always been curious about folks' definition of "for the street". Occasionally driven on the street, say within 25-50 miles from home once or twice a month? Daily driver driven on the street? Or around the block warm up driven on the street once in a while? All of these variables play into helpful answers-JMO
 
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Orange...Chrome....junk...

You want an ignition that has a top end limiter, eliminates the ballast resistor, will last and is good for ALL RPM use.
 
Bewy said:
Two comments.
- Use a GM HEI 4 pin module & E coil [ such as MSD #8207 ] & run 0.060" plug gaps.
That will do more than both of those systems. For even more 'oomph', use the MSD #83647 module or Summit copy.
- Using the Chrome box on the street will cook the coil from the increased current & dwell.
Click to expand...
Disagree! Been running the chrome box for about a few are now on my everyday driver. Approximately 15,000 miles a year doing everything from 50 mile one way commuting to a ton of around town tasks.

5.9 Magnum with only bolt on parts (headers intake ignition swap) that runs a stock 904. It had 3.23’s on 26-1/2 tires for years until the rear gave up and I moved to 3.55’s.

Zero issues and still works fine.

The “GOLD” box has listed limitations from MP.
Not the Chrome box. I have never read any limitations.
 
roccodart440 said:
Orange...Chrome....junk...

You want an ignition that has a top end limiter, eliminates the ballast resistor, will last and is good for ALL RPM use.
Click to expand...
Orange = junk - agreed if it’s a newer one.
Chrome = disagree. Never an issue. I’ve had a couple of them on various cars without issue.

What ignition do you suggest.
I have had personally horrible luck with MSD and will not ever bother with them again. I have always had junk from them that has not ever last a year, except my first 6A box. Which sadly went with the truck I sold.
 
ecu chart 2.png
ecu III.png
 
Nice… so which chrome box was last offered now that you muddied the waters?
 
Good question. I look for the older ones personally. I know guys run them daily and also have heard of some breaking down. Biggest thing I have seen with the ECU's is make sure it is not a "Replaces one" and has the matched ballast resistor for the best performance. We beat the hell out of them on a thread I have to find it. All comes down to you really need that extra 1/10 of a second or not.

If the curve is not right for the engine the rest is a moot point.

Lots of ECU info in here.
1974 Brain Box saves the day. | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
 
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