JGizmo
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what these two plugs in the firewall of my '65 Valiant go to?
Thank you, would one of them have been unplugged for a reason?Ballast resistor for the ignition
I did not know that, thanks for the infothat resistor is somewhat open when cold to provide the coil almost 12V, when it starts to warm up, it starts getting more resistive, cutting voltage to the coil to about 6V to prolong the life of the ignition. Many have had to jump this resistor when it opens (cracks) to get the motor started and get home or to a auto parts store. Every Person who's had this happen usually keeps a spare one in the glove box or trunk. Its a Mopar thing...few understand.
Very informative, thank you"Go to?" The go to right where they are, that is the ballast resistor. One end comes from the key switch "in run" and supplies power to the ballast, which drops the voltage to the ignition coil. The wire taking off from the "key" "run" end taps off power to the voltage regulator IGN terminal.
The other end goes to the coil, and the extra wire comes from the key during cranking, and feeds full battery voltage to the coil during that time.
That would make sense.Maybe when the motor came out. Not much force is necessary to pull the connector off.
Welp, I blew the original 170 slant six in it in early February. I finally found a new 225 that at least turns over last week, and my goal was to drive it to my last day of high school. But sixes are hard to find where I am, and this one needs a lot of work, so I do not think I'll be done in time. Maybe I'll hemi swap it in a few years.What is your plans for an engine?
It's good to see a younger guy in the hobby and working on these cars. Depending on what the new engine needs, parts availability, and your budget it is doable to get it running in a month. Lots of slant guys around here with a wealth of info.Welp, I blew the original 170 slant six in it in early February. I finally found a new 225 that at least turns over last week, and my goal was to drive it to my last day of high school. But sixes are hard to find where I am, and this one needs a lot of work, so I do not think I'll be done in time. Maybe I'll hemi swap it in a few years.
It'll bolt up, it's just that the new 225 I have probably hasn't ran in 40 years. It is from a 1970 so I need to use a 170 oil pan and pickup (my old 170 has a hole in the pan and I'm guessing metal shards in the oil pump/pickup). I also need to use the distributor from my old motor because this one didn't come with one. And I'm definitely a beginner so I need to figure out timing.Is there something different on the 65 and earlier slants than 225's or will his 225 bolt up?
Yeah, and as of now I have three slant sixes. Hopefully combined they will make one decent, running Frankenslant.It's good to see a younger guy in the hobby and working on these cars. Depending on what the new engine needs, parts availability, and your budget it is doable to get it running in a month. Lots of slant guys around here with a wealth of info.
Whereabouts are you in california? My 225 slant I pulled in October ran great and if you need any parts let me know.Yeah, and as of now I have three slant sixes. Hopefully combined they will make one decent, running Frankenslant.
If you need a distributor and are close, the one I have is all brand new inside.It'll bolt up, it's just that the new 225 I have probably hasn't ran in 40 years. It is from a 1970 so I need to use a 170 oil pan and pickup (my old 170 has a hole in the pan and I'm guessing metal shards in the oil pump/pickup). I also need to use the distributor from my old motor because this one didn't come with one. And I'm definitely a beginner so I need to figure out timing.
ok, so timing is easy on these slants.It'll bolt up, it's just that the new 225 I have probably hasn't ran in 40 years. It is from a 1970 so I need to use a 170 oil pan and pickup (my old 170 has a hole in the pan and I'm guessing metal shards in the oil pump/pickup). I also need to use the distributor from my old motor because this one didn't come with one. And I'm definitely a beginner so I need to figure out timing.
While there are several slant 6 oil pans there is no "170 pan" or "225 pan" necessarily.It'll bolt up, it's just that the new 225 I have probably hasn't ran in 40 years. It is from a 1970 so I need to use a 170 oil pan and pickup (my old 170 has a hole in the pan and I'm guessing metal shards in the oil pump/pickup). I also need to use the distributor from my old motor because this one didn't come with one. And I'm definitely a beginner so I need to figure out timing.
I think I used the wrong wording for that. I meant that because my car is a '65 and the engine came out of a 1970, I would have to swap the oil pan because I heard they changed shape between those years. I have no idea what the new engine came out of, but I assumed it was an old farm truck judging by the amount of dirt and dust that it was caked in.While there are several slant 6 oil pans there is no "170 pan" or "225 pan" necessarily.
What did the replacement 225 come out of?
If another a body you should be good with what's on it. If a truck it will definitely need swapped out.
I'm in Northern California, right by Santa Rosa.Whereabouts are you in california? My 225 slant I pulled in October ran great and if you need any parts let me know.
(I also put in a new motor to drive it during high school)
I've got the distributor off my old 170, but I'm not sure if there's any difference between the distributors on 170s and 225s.If you need a distributor and are close, the one I have is all brand new inside.
there shouldn't be but im sure someone more well versed in the slants will chime inI've got the distributor off my old 170, but I'm not sure if there's any difference between the distributors on 170s and 225s.