I mean that if its not a full on stock restoration, dont bother with all the numbers matching details to make it look stock. You can make it "stock looking" and not waste you energy on those type of details.
New to the forum and to A-bodies - advice on a build direction
- Thread starter Elemental_Garage
- Start date
-
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Ah gotcha. That's what I thought you meant, but wanted to clarify
. Thank you!
With all that, Im not an oficionado like many on here. I just am reporting what i think I see people liking. If you are keeping the car (which it doesnt sound like you are, correct me if Im wrong please) then have at it any way you want. Even if you might sell, it seems the chrysler crowd will pay more for stock than not.Ah gotcha. That's what I thought you meant, but wanted to clarify
Now.....If a clean body, gen III hemi, T56, seats that hold you and 18" rims is what you have laying around.....do not hesitate man!
again....just a guy here.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Right now all I have is the car, a rebuilt 340, a transmission (not sure what yet), and rear seats. The rest, wheels, tires, interior pieces, at all stuff that will need to be sourced. So it can really go in a variety of directions. My gut is pushing me towards what I call as a Stock+ build which is mostly stock with some light modern upgrades to make driveability/livability/and safety better.
Thoughts on the retro spoiler vs. none? I was wanting to tuck the exhaust up a bit by fabbing a channel in the bumper, but may just go for the oval/square under the bumper instead of people prefer the stock look. Was trying to meld just a few touches from a modern Demon into it.
Crappy 5-min photoshop of the exhaust and bumper. Exhaust wouldn't stick out as far in real life, but hard to get the photoshop angles right snipping stuff from Summit Racing:
Thoughts on the retro spoiler vs. none? I was wanting to tuck the exhaust up a bit by fabbing a channel in the bumper, but may just go for the oval/square under the bumper instead of people prefer the stock look. Was trying to meld just a few touches from a modern Demon into it.
Crappy 5-min photoshop of the exhaust and bumper. Exhaust wouldn't stick out as far in real life, but hard to get the photoshop angles right snipping stuff from Summit Racing:
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Get what you have running and drive it then go from there thats my $.02 the car has paint on it so dont get into that just yet get it running decide if you like it and want to keep it then finish the body/paint/ etc. another thing is you can color match the hood and trunk then wet sand and buff...or clear coat the whole car wetsand and buff...also it looks like it is mor ein a condition where it needs to be assembled nbefore paint and body just to be sure you have everything that it needs to go down the road...you may find you need little things,bnuts bolts clips springs etc. things that add up... take time to find.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Yeah I'll likely pull the body off and clean up and paint the frame after sorting any suspension/brake work. I'll also run some new lines and make some nice line holders/hangars too. Once that's done I'll blast and paint the frame and then reassemble. Then I'll get the wiring and missing body stuff sorted, then disassemble again and correct the paint, and then go back into "final," assembly. With me being new to the a-bodies it'll take some time to figure out what is missing and what I don't know haha.
Which reminds me. Any particularly problematic or weak areas of these frames that are good to address while access is easy?
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Well its unibody no body to pull off but you can remove front and rear suspension etc. most guys rotisserie these cars they strip it top and bottom clean all teh rust etc. but that isnt necessary only if you really want to go that far. They usually need rear quarter lower patches and the trunk extensions maybe patches in teh trunk floor etc. it really depends on where the bad metal is. Front fenders will rust out at the lower right to the fromt of the doors etc. Plus the door striker bolt issues and hood hinges are about the only major bodywork issues. They really arent bad cars to re do if you get a good one....
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Shows how little I know of these A-bodies haha.
Hey Elemental,
Show off some of the other rides you have put together and we can get a better ideas as to what you like to build?
It seems you have mad skillz but all we can see is an empty shop and an Elco.
I like the fender cut outs BTW.
Im not trying to throw you no shade, just like "gettin to know you" kinda thing.
Ill try to post a pic of the project im workin on.
Show off some of the other rides you have put together and we can get a better ideas as to what you like to build?
It seems you have mad skillz but all we can see is an empty shop and an Elco.
I like the fender cut outs BTW.
Im not trying to throw you no shade, just like "gettin to know you" kinda thing.
Ill try to post a pic of the project im workin on.
Last edited:
Spoiler is [ersona; taste and varies from one guy to the next. Please don't do cutouts in the bumper for exhaust! Just my opinion but that ruins the look.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
@clementine
This is one we're working on now. LS3 going in with a new transmission, A/C, new suspension, and then some custom 3d printed pieces for the fuel system
. Also doing some custom badging to replace the 327 since it's a 376. I worked with a font artist to create a full font with those numbers, and then designed a 3d model for it and then CNCed it from 6061.
We have a 1965 Mustang we haven't started on yet.
And then a 72 C10 in the works that I'm using to create custom parts for. So far I've done coil-over suspension, big brakes/hydroboost, some interior bits, updated headlights and some custom body stuff. More to come with this one, but shifted over to some custom part development for it. So far I have designed and milled a custom gauge bezel:
Shop was cleared out because as part of the trade for the Demon I sold my big platform lift in exchange for the car, as well as work to hang insulation on the ceiling so I could heat/cool the shop space.
This is one we're working on now. LS3 going in with a new transmission, A/C, new suspension, and then some custom 3d printed pieces for the fuel system
. Also doing some custom badging to replace the 327 since it's a 376. I worked with a font artist to create a full font with those numbers, and then designed a 3d model for it and then CNCed it from 6061.
We have a 1965 Mustang we haven't started on yet.
And then a 72 C10 in the works that I'm using to create custom parts for. So far I've done coil-over suspension, big brakes/hydroboost, some interior bits, updated headlights and some custom body stuff. More to come with this one, but shifted over to some custom part development for it. So far I have designed and milled a custom gauge bezel:
Shop was cleared out because as part of the trade for the Demon I sold my big platform lift in exchange for the car, as well as work to hang insulation on the ceiling so I could heat/cool the shop space.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Totally understood and I respect the viewpoint. I think I'd only do it if I was going deep into the pro-touring build. The bumpers on this are pretty high already, so I think I'd only do it outside a pro-touring build if it prevented the exhaust from being the lowest point.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2005
- Messages
- 3,114
- Reaction score
- 4,882
question: what's the vin & fender tag say? because if that's a true 340 car and the motor/trans are numbers matching, then that could take the build in a totally different direction.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
I believe this tells me it's an actual Demon that came with either the 6 cyl or 318 originally. The engine inside it currently has a 340 marking stamped on the front driver side of the block. Anywhere else I should be looking>?
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Looks like a heck of a project, and love the shop dog photo
. The body looks straight and clean on that one too, nice work! We have 3 dogs here, and about to adopt a senior 4th as we lost our last senior dog a few months ago.Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Also curious about where you recommend sourcing body panels from. As you can see I'm missing some front-end components.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2005
- Messages
- 3,114
- Reaction score
- 4,882
it's a slant car, so really you could go in any direction. selling the 340/trans combo to fund out part of a G3 swap or holding onto it for a future build is always a possibility.
in the interest of building something that would probably appeal to the widest base, i'd say keep the 340 and go EFI on it backed up with an OD automatic transmission. keep it stock torsion bar with upgraded components, throw some decent brakes and good shocks at it with sway bars so it handles nice. keep the wheels mellow and try and stay toward a classic look. upgrade the interior with some nice buckets and if you go away from stock gauges, keep it classic looking. upgraded wiring with LED's is always a plus.
i think something like that would not only give you the opportunity to showcase your talents with some subtle one off parts and nice engineering touches, but would be a fairly straight forward build that would likely sell easy and you wouldn't be gobs and gobs of cash into it should you need to get out from under it.
in the interest of building something that would probably appeal to the widest base, i'd say keep the 340 and go EFI on it backed up with an OD automatic transmission. keep it stock torsion bar with upgraded components, throw some decent brakes and good shocks at it with sway bars so it handles nice. keep the wheels mellow and try and stay toward a classic look. upgrade the interior with some nice buckets and if you go away from stock gauges, keep it classic looking. upgraded wiring with LED's is always a plus.
i think something like that would not only give you the opportunity to showcase your talents with some subtle one off parts and nice engineering touches, but would be a fairly straight forward build that would likely sell easy and you wouldn't be gobs and gobs of cash into it should you need to get out from under it.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Great advice, and I'm inclined to agree about the approach. Thanks! And if you have any good pointers on sourcing missing parts, like those for the headlights shown above, I'd all ears. Obviously google provides some options, but curious if you all have any preferences. Cheers!
DionR
Well-Known Member
If you have a good 340, it would be cool to keep it. One other place verify it is a 340 is on the DS of the block just below the cylinder head. There should be a part number cast into the block with -340- at the end.
Maybe modernize it like @racerjoe did with his stroker LA with full EFI. He made it look stock, but still modern:
Here's a link to his build thread:
12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build
12:05 Garage- 70 Duster build After trolling this page for quite some time, I decided it was time to share my rebuild with everyone. Dont let the title of the thread fool you, this isnt a high end shop building a car with an unlimited budget. Its a one man show in my home garage. Along...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Maybe put an 8HP70 behind it to make it cruise like a modern Challenger, but kind of hidden. A 4L60/65 would do the job as well and probably simpler. But I've heard almost nothing but good things about the 8HP70/90 and I bet it would be sweet when behind a good 340.
Update the torsion bar suspension and put some 17" wheels on it. This will keep it simple to reverse if someone had to go back to stock and the 17" wheels are more because you can get a modern tire.
I would go Borgeson PS because I like the combination on my car and is a quick and easy way to get a more modern steering feel.
Go with a modern seat like Scat or Corbeau, but a stock bucket would work well too. Leave the rest of the interior mostly stock looking other than maybe some modern gauges in a Ralley dash. Add a good amount of sound deadening and a hidden sound system and leave it at that unless AC is important.
If you do AC, I would love to see someone come up with a way to integrate the AC vents into the dash rather than hang them underneath it.
In the end, that would result in a "restoration" look with some modern upgrades, but in a car that would drive like a new car and be easy to return to true stock if necessary outside of the floor mods needed for the 8HP70.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Thanks, I'll have to check out that thread. It sounds like the tunnel needs to be opened up to support the 8HP70 transmission then?
Best advice I can give is there is an azz for every drivers seat. Someone will appreciate the build for what it is and will have to have it no matter what direction you choose. If the paint is decent then go with it. Same for the engine if it is a good 340 or 360 then use it. Hemi swap is not cheap and can nickle and dime you to death. If you build a well put together cool car it will sell.
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
Appreciate the comment!
Elemental_Garage
Active Member
I'm curious how the Rallye dash fits vs what is in there, as the Rallye appears to be a much longer, once piece, whereas what is in there now appears, at first glance, to be a piece that just contains the gauge cluster and doesn't overlap with the radio/ac control region.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2005
- Messages
- 3,114
- Reaction score
- 4,882
anything beyond stock requires floor surgery, how much and how extensively you need to mod the trans mount depends on the power transfer unit of your choosing. (the easy button here is a gearvendors unit)
the rally dash is its own beast. the frame itself is different from the standard dash frame (and the wiring). @72bluNblu modded the dash in his duster, so have a look at his build thread for the info there-- and inspiration! it's a great build.
rally clusters show up here frequently, or you can buy new or "versions" of it from classic dash, thunder road, classic industries. i *think* dakota digital was working on or has a johnny hot **** new complete unit, but i can't find the link anywhere.
re: your question on sourcing parts. the classifieds here are a great resource. then you have the usual: laysons, year one, classic industries, DMT, mancini, jim's, etc. swapmeets are where you'll find the big chonky parts.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I only know of one situation where the tunnel was claimed to not have to be cut, and he moved the motor forward. So I would say yes, the tunnel will need to be cut.
Something to know about the torsion bar suspension is that there is a crossmember over the top of the transmission that supports the weight of the car much like the shock towers in a Mustang. And it is fairly tight and almost always needs to be cut to fit a late model OD trans. If you keep the torsion bars and remove the center of that crossmember it really needs to be built back in somehow. There are those that feel that the bolt in transmission support is enough, but I like the idea of the car being able to support itself without having that support bolted in. This is also why many go to a coil over conversion (COC), it removes the stresses that crossmember sees and frees up room that the torsion bars take up, but it adds stresses to the chassis that it wasn't designed for usually by putting the weight of the car into the inner fender that was only supposed to resist the shock forces. Most (all?) COC kits take this into consideration, but some argue it doesn't fix it all. But that's the builder/owner to decide.
I think a 4L60 needs a cope at the front of the torsion bar crossmember but the tunnel itself doesn't need to be cut. Same with a 200R4, maybe? The A500/42RH/42RE can be bolted in without modifying the tunnel, but the crossmember has to be removed over the trans and a thick (1/2"?) plate welded to the floor and ends of the crossmember. For an automatic OD, I can't think of any other options beyond the 5 speed the earlier LX/LC's came with and it is much more complex to swap, needs the same floor mods and isn't as good a trans as the 8HP70/90.
One note; it is my opinion that the single biggest mod anyone can do to a car to make it more modern and enjoyable to drive is an overdrive transmission of some type.
-
