68 Charger steering issue

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We recently received a car from another shop that had a whole list of problems. All were already paid to be fixed unfortunately. One of the issues is steering. The other shop installed a new steering box, but the steering is awful, I don't think they even drove it, mainly because the brakes barely work even though it has a new disc conversion. The steering is what I would call extremely loose. You can turn it left or right then bring it quickly back to center before it actually starts to turn. It's so bad you can almost get out of control around 30 mph. It has a new box and looks like suspension parts have been replaced within the last few years. I called the company that sold the box, Classic Industries, and they have no clue. Any ideas?
 
Power or manual? If power have you gone through the adjustment procedure on the box?
 
It's a power box. I'm just assuming they threw it on and sent it on it's way judging by all the other work that wasn't done correctly. Thankfully it ran so bad it couldn't get up to speed or he would have found out he's also only got about 10% brakes
 
The shops that rebuild OEM steering boxes do VARY in quality.
Firm Feel and Steer and Gear offer options to increase the steering feel and cut down on the overboosted sensation. Other vendors often just disassemble, clean and reassemble the units with no regard for addressing the loose tolerances. Lares and Cardone are two vendors that just clean and regasket. If the box was loose before, it will be loose afterwards.
It could be a matter of a bad idler arm, loose tie rod ends or overall poor alignment as well.
 
The steering coupler may have been put together wrong. Check to see how much may it has. May need a good wheel alignment as well. It’s also possible that the K frame is worn out where the lower control arms bolt in. Kim
 
All this is stuff that needs to be verified with eyes on it.
Or, we could just guess all day just for fun. :D
 
I took a video of the coupler but can't figure out how to upload it. When I turn the wheel back and forth, the steering column moves and you can see a slight delay in the coupler moving. I'm guessing the coupler should be tight on the column shaft? The end parts are also just hanging around the shaft.

20240430_100447.jpg
 
The blocks inside the coupler can be installed correctly or 90 degrees out. The are rectangular, not square, so if the latter, you'll have all kinds of play in the steering.

I'll second the quality of rebuilt power steering boxes. Way back, I put a rebuilt PS box in my Valiant, could never get the slop out, finally just replaced it.
 
Anyone know of a part number for the coupler rebuild kit. I find them on ebay with a dorman part number. Ebay says 64-78 and dorman says 78+. 425-253
 
First determine where the extra play is. Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all the steering components. The coupler, box itself, pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod ends, etc, are all places that can be worn or out of adjustment.
 
First determine where the extra play is. Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all the steering components. The coupler, box itself, pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod ends, etc, are all places that can be worn or out of adjustment.
There is definitely play where the steering shaft goes into the coupler. I removed the steering column and the coupler fell off the end. I'm guessing the rectangular parts were turned wrong. When I turned them the other other way. I would almost have to tap the coupler back on with a hammer.
 
There is definitely play where the steering shaft goes into the coupler. I removed the steering column and the coupler fell off the end. I'm guessing the rectangular parts were turned wrong. When I turned them the other other way. I would almost have to tap the coupler back on with a hammer.
My son has an 85 Dodge Ram truck with lots of miles on it. He had tons of play and found that the coupler was the culprit. He bought a kit to replace the parts and when he took the old parts out he could see the wear. The new parts fixed the issue. If/when you replace the parts, be sure to pack it with good grease and be sure that end piece fits snugly. The picture you showed has it hanging off.
 
There is definitely play where the steering shaft goes into the coupler. I removed the steering column and the coupler fell off the end. I'm guessing the rectangular parts were turned wrong. When I turned them the other other way. I would almost have to tap the coupler back on with a hammer.
If it fits that tightly, I wouldn't think you even need a rebuild kit.
 
Rebuilt the coupler, made a night and day difference in the feel of the steering wheel, much tighter. Now when driving, the car has memory steer. If I turn it one way or the other, it stays rather than going back to center.
 
Memory-steer, as you call it, is usually;
lack of caster; and btw; excessive rake steals caster.
or more likely is that the steering box set-up too tight, or
the lower BJs are tight, or
Low tire pressures, or
just general tightness in the steering somewhere.

Jack the car up under the lower control arms, and grab a wheel, and attempt to steer the system left and right. If it is hard thru it's entire travel, yur gonna have to hunt for it. BUT
>If it's notchy on center, check the sector-shaft end-play; you gotta have some thru the center, and up to about an eighth of a turn either way on the steering wheel, which is by turning the steering box input shaft NOT the steering wheel, and with the engine NOT running.
A trick I use is to watch the sector shaft (the one pointing down). On the switch-over from one direction to the other, the sector shaft will rise up into the box ever so slightly, then reverse direction. A couple of thou when hot, is all it needs.
To figure out if the tightness is in the BJs or in the steering your option are to disconnect one of the following; the pitman arm is easy if you have a puller. or the Idler arm if you don't, and let it hang. Or you could drop the two outer tierod ends if you can do it without destroying the rubber boots. But once both the steering arms are hanging, you can easily inspect the ends.
If it turns out to be the BJs, which is where I usually find it, you still gotta figure out which one it is. I usually find it in the Lower one.
AFAIK, a tight LBJ is a throw-away. The cheap off-shore junk is designed that way to last more than a week.
I never was able to physically save a tight one, nor did any different grease fix them up.
When I was an alignment tech, I had to educate my supervisor, that those el-cheepo joints were not saving anybody any money, beyond the day-one savings. But no matter, it took the utter disintegration of one, in a pick-up truck, that folded everything under the truck, destroying all the steering and suspension on that side, plus the sheet metal, and the resulting 60 mile tow; for the boss to get it.
In those days the brands to buy were Moog, TRW, and one other that escapes me now; which never gave me any trouble. But
I heard that both of those went to China after I moved on, with predictable results.
I suppose, you may have to go to your jobber and go thru his inventory to find an acceptably "loose" one.
The junk parts were warrantied by the vendors, but my labor was not. I mean, I told them those parts were junk.
And you know, I had to redo the alignment. Nothing changed, but I had to look, cuz if I didn't and the tire wore out, guess who would get the blame for that! I wasn't having it.
 
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Memory-steer, as you call it, is usually;
lack of caster; and btw; excessive rake steals caster.
or more likely is that the steering box set-up too tight, or
the lower BJs are tight, or
Low tire pressures, or
just general tightness in the steering somewhere.

Jack the car up under the lower control arms, and grab a wheel, and attempt to steer the system left and right. If it is hard thru it's entire travel, yur gonna have to hunt for it. BUT
>If it's notchy on center, check the sector-shaft end-play; you gotta have some thru the center, and up to about an eighth of a turn either way on the steering wheel, which is by turning the steering box input shaft NOT the steering wheel, and with the engine NOT running.
A trick I use is to watch the sector shaft (the one pointing down). On the switch-over from one direction to the other, the sector shaft will rise up into the box ever so slightly, then reverse direction. A couple of thou when hot, is all it needs.
To figure out if the tightness is in the BJs or in the steering your option are to disconnect one of the following; the pitman arm is easy if you have a puller. or the Idler arm if you don't, and let it hang. Or you could drop the two outer tierod ends if you can do it without destroying the rubber boots. But once both the steering arms are hanging, you can easily inspect the ends.
If it turns out to be the BJs, which is where I usually find it, you still gotta figure out which one it is. I usually find it in the Lower one.
AFAIK, a tight LBJ is a throw-away. The cheap off-shore junk is designed that way to last more than a week.
I never was able to physically save a tight one, nor did any different grease fix them up.
When I was an alignment tech, I had to educate my supervisor, that those el-cheepo joints were not saving anybody any money, beyond the day-one savings. But no matter, it took the utter disintegration of one, in a pick-up truck, that folded everything under the truck, destroying all the steering and suspension on that side, plus the sheet metal, and the resulting 60 mile tow; for the boss to get it.
In those days the brands to buy were Moog, TRW, and one other that escapes me now; which never gave me any trouble. But
I heard that both of those went to China after I moved on, with predictable results.
I suppose, you may have to go to your jobber and go thru his inventory to find an acceptably "loose" one.
The junk parts were warrantied by the vendors, but my labor was not. I mean, I told them those parts were junk.
And you know, I had to redo the alignment. Nothing changed, but I had to look, cuz if I didn't and the tire wore out, guess who would get the blame for that! I wasn't having it.
Thanks, I'll check that one other thing I noticed when driving it, if you drive along slow and cut the wheel left or right, the wheel will continue to turn that way if you let go and the car will dart in that direction
 
After looking at front end closely, I ordered a complete rebuild kit. The upper ball joints look brand new except the boots are destroyed and not a drop of grease ever put in. The spindles are new along with the disc kit. Not sure why the other shop didn't address these issues. They also didn't bother putting a cotter pin on one side and the castle nut was hand tight. Looking at everything, this car was a few bumps away from disaster.

20240504_160030.jpg


20240504_155908.jpg
 
After looking at front end closely, I ordered a complete rebuild kit. The upper ball joints look brand new except the boots are destroyed and not a drop of grease ever put in. The spindles are new along with the disc kit. Not sure why the other shop didn't address these issues. They also didn't bother putting a cotter pin on one side and the castle nut was hand tight. Looking at everything, this car was a few bumps away from disaster.

View attachment 1716248526

View attachment 1716248527
Shoddy, dangerous work for a shop to do. Must have hired a minimum wage guy that was never supervised!
 
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