Restarting my French Plymouth Duster 318/904

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FredP

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South France, french riviera
Hi folks, this thread to share the WIP on my 70 Duster with it's 318/904 combo.
As I said in my presentation, my goal is to have the car running "as is" for the next 4 years or so, and then to restore it from ground (once I retire). This is why I'm not calling this a restoration, but more likely a restarting process.
IMG-20250223-WA0005.jpg


This car was sold to a French guy 6 years ago, it was imported from Oregon state. At that time, paint was shiny (it allways will on pictures!), and so was the engine bay.
This car sat for 6 years in a barn in northwestern France -close to Mont Saint Michel in Normandy-, and was driven for only short trips: 4000 miles in 6 years. Local weather and humidity left some visible damage on the car: a little bit of rust here and there, aluminum parts (intake/carb/head covers) began to oxydize, a strong musty smell inside...

So I drove it back home a week ago, driving my 1300 km / 800 mi journey in only 2 days. Imagine that I spent less than one hour with former owner including paperwork before I started my trip! Drive it like you stole just bought it! :steering:
Driving at night, under heavy rain, with a car you don't its history was a great adventure but come on: it's a Mopar, so it's a good car!

(Skip that next paragraph if you don't like grumpy old men :lol: ) I had time yesterday to have a deeper look and I will always be amazed by the real state of cars supposedly restored by owners who ultimately only do a crude make-up. I found small pieces of sheet metal held together with pop rivets, strips of sheet metal intended to hide the misery, a lot of fiberglass, makeshift repairs. But everything is hidden under a layer of shiny paint that looks the part from a distance. The engine was repainted red (the paint is flaking and does not hold), but the entire lower part of the engine remained blue: who wants to paint an engine without even cleaning it of its grease? Without taking it out to detail it properly?
When you start a restoration project, I thought that you did it above all to have a base free of all reproach and that the paint finish was only the final step in a long process... it's a shame to paint over the misery, right?

It's got the fender plate, it also has the windshied area VIN plate, the door sticker.
To start, here's what I know about the car: it was produced for the Canadian market, had a radio, and that's about all I could decode from the fender tag.

fendertag.jpg


I did a good inspection of the chassis, the engine bay and the drivetrain. Now I'm finding myself with a list of issues to solve before I can have it inspected...
  • there is some rust on the rear fenders (between wheels and bumper), need to cut/weld,
  • the rear leaf spring brackets were somewhat "incorporated" to the chassis with lots of bad weldings and need to be replaced,
  • rear frame rails have some holes that will be "patched",
  • there is a hole between the trunk center section and the right trunk extension floor (patch will do the job),
  • another hole in the far right rear side of the trunk extension floor,
  • the wheel studs will be replaced because some were replaced with incorrect diameter ones: 20 studs/20 nuts ordered,
  • the brakes will need a good maintenance: hoses, shoes, drum rectification, power booster refurbishment,
  • I'll change the engine mounts because they look "tired"...,
  • I need to work on the headligths adjustment screws: so rusty that they broke when trying to adjust the look-my-feet-lamps (new set in approach),
  • I'll try to have the 1406 Edelbrock carb ultrasonic cleaned,
  • need to check also ignition timing, carb settings, plugs, wires, etc.
  • I'll add a mirror on the right side because my wifes plans to drive it too,
  • I need to clean everything/everywhere, get rid of oil in engine bay, remove surface oxidation on carb,
  • the horn won't blow: maybe the copper friction track (because I hear crunchy bad noises when turning the steering wheel),
  • the ammeter & the water temp gauge do not work: I need also to check lectricity/dashboard,
  • the wiper motor only works on low speed,
  • both light and wiper switches will be replaced,
  • a small exhaust leakage
I spent my saturday afternoon browsing websites to order parts, trying to order everything I need.
Beside these "mandatory" works, I also ordered a wing mounting bracket set and I'll try also to install the two hood scoops.
=> Fun fact: hood scoops inserts are metric: way easyier for me to get M6 bolts and nuts!

I'll try to update this thread as soon as I'll make some progress: parts are on the way but it may take up to 4 weeks before delivery, and I have little time to spend on this project.

Stay tuned :thankyou:
 
I am no expert on bodywork, but if you have "holes in the frame rails" I would do more than patch them. Drill/ grind/ cut into them to inspect, aka "do what you have to do" as they may be hiding rust, and remember, those frame rails ARE the only frame you have, and are MUCH thinner than a conventional frame. I would maybe instead of patching, take a good long length of strap steel, a major part of the length of the rail, clean everything will and either cut out the old and weld it in recessed, or even clean it enough to weld the new steel on the surface of the old.

If you are unaware, you can wander over to MyMopar.com and download factory service manuals for free. There is also quite an archive of other information over there.

You may have to be content with the Dodge manual vs Plymouth, as the manuals skip some years
 
Hi folks, this thread to share the WIP on my 70 Duster with it's 318/904 combo.
As I said in my presentation, my goal is to have the car running "as is" for the next 4 years or so, and then to restore it from ground (once I retire). This is why I'm not calling this a restoration, but more likely a restarting process.
View attachment 1716373306

This car was sold to a French guy 6 years ago, it was imported from Oregon state. At that time, paint was shiny (it allways will on pictures!), and so was the engine bay.
This car sat for 6 years in a barn in northwestern France -close to Mont Saint Michel in Normandy-, and was driven for only short trips: 4000 miles in 6 years. Local weather and humidity left some visible damage on the car: a little bit of rust here and there, aluminum parts (intake/carb/head covers) began to oxydize, a strong musty smell inside...

So I drove it back home a week ago, driving my 1300 km / 800 mi journey in only 2 days. Imagine that I spent less than one hour with former owner including paperwork before I started my trip! Drive it like you stole just bought it! :steering:
Driving at night, under heavy rain, with a car you don't its history was a great adventure but come on: it's a Mopar, so it's a good car!

(Skip that next paragraph if you don't like grumpy old men :lol: ) I had time yesterday to have a deeper look and I will always be amazed by the real state of cars supposedly restored by owners who ultimately only do a crude make-up. I found small pieces of sheet metal held together with pop rivets, strips of sheet metal intended to hide the misery, a lot of fiberglass, makeshift repairs. But everything is hidden under a layer of shiny paint that looks the part from a distance. The engine was repainted red (the paint is flaking and does not hold), but the entire lower part of the engine remained blue: who wants to paint an engine without even cleaning it of its grease? Without taking it out to detail it properly?
When you start a restoration project, I thought that you did it above all to have a base free of all reproach and that the paint finish was only the final step in a long process... it's a shame to paint over the misery, right?

It's got the fender plate, it also has the windshied area VIN plate, the door sticker.
To start, here's what I know about the car: it was produced for the Canadian market, had a radio, and that's about all I could decode from the fender tag.

View attachment 1716373259

I did a good inspection of the chassis, the engine bay and the drivetrain. Now I'm finding myself with a list of issues to solve before I can have it inspected...
  • there is some rust on the rear fenders (between wheels and bumper), need to cut/weld,
  • the rear leaf spring brackets were somewhat "incorporated" to the chassis with lots of bad weldings and need to be replaced,
  • rear frame rails have some holes that will be "patched",
  • there is a hole between the trunk center section and the right trunk extension floor (patch will do the job),
  • another hole in the far right rear side of the trunk extension floor,
  • the wheel studs will be replaced because some were replaced with incorrect diameter ones: 20 studs/20 nuts ordered,
  • the brakes will need a good maintenance: hoses, shoes, drum rectification, power booster refurbishment,
  • I'll change the engine mounts because they look "tired"...,
  • I need to work on the headligths adjustment screws: so rusty that they broke when trying to adjust the look-my-feet-lamps (new set in approach),
  • I'll try to have the 1406 Edelbrock carb ultrasonic cleaned,
  • need to check also ignition timing, carb settings, plugs, wires, etc.
  • I'll add a mirror on the right side because my wifes plans to drive it too,
  • I need to clean everything/everywhere, get rid of oil in engine bay, remove surface oxidation on carb,
  • the horn won't blow: maybe the copper friction track (because I hear crunchy bad noises when turning the steering wheel),
  • the ammeter & the water temp gauge do not work: I need also to check lectricity/dashboard,
  • the wiper motor only works on low speed,
  • both light and wiper switches will be replaced,
  • a small exhaust leakage
I spent my saturday afternoon browsing websites to order parts, trying to order everything I need.
Beside these "mandatory" works, I also ordered a wing mounting bracket set and I'll try also to install the two hood scoops.
=> Fun fact: hood scoops inserts are metric: way easyier for me to get M6 bolts and nuts!

I'll try to update this thread as soon as I'll make some progress: parts are on the way but it may take up to 4 weeks before delivery, and I have little time to spend on this project.

Stay tuned :thankyou:
Welcome to the club!
I like seeing members from other countries tell stories of their imported Mopars. As Americans, we sometimes forget that these great cars went outside of the US, Mexico and Canada.
I have a question....
To pass your vehicle inspection, do you have to have an emission control test, a safety equipment test as well as body rust? What are the requirements to pass?
Thanks and good luck with this great car!
 
Bonjour,
the French technical inspection (we call it "contrôle technique") process is mandatory for cars that are 4+ years old. There are 133 points that the inspector will focus on: this is quite a serious business, as the result of the inspection may lead to critical and non-critical defects.
If the report shows major defects, then you have 2 months to have these issues corrected, and you need to go for an additional inspection. For some very critical defects, this may be reduced to a single day, allowing you to drive to the very next garage!
If there are only minor defects, then it is your own responsability to have them corrected, and no additional inspection is needed.
If you are driving a car without tech inspection, then the police may seize your car (they have on-line access to the database) and fines are expensive: since this tech. inspection thing was introduced in France, the global quality of cars (and trucks, RVs, motorcycles, etc.) has greatly improved.
The inspection will cover a wide range from pollution to the presence of corrosion, braking, lighting, the presence and proper functioning of all safety devices, windows, suspensions, tires, general condition, leaks, etc.
For regular cars, the inspection is valid for 2 years (only 1 for trucks, but 3 for motorcycles) and average price is around 80€.
For cars vith the "collector car" status, the inspection is due every 5 years and the criteria are adapted to the generation of the car.

Concerning my Duster, there were no critical issues. Major issues are:
headlights adjustment,
license plates (attaching screws are forbidden here, you need rivets!),
brake hoses,
brakes global efficiency,
wheel bearings (front),
rust on rear frame rails,
leaks.

Minor issues are: horn not working, surface corrosion (underbody).

For sure, the frame rails will be cutted and refabricated by a professional body shop, and I can take care of everything else on the list.
My guess is that this car was in a rear-end collision, and the repairs made were not so professional. The impacted area appears to be limited to the rear section, the spring brackets were not affected and the rear rails look very solid from rear springs brackets forward.

But anyway, thanks for your messages: I feel very lucky to have people caring for other's safety :thankyou:
 
Hi everyone
The rainy weather here and my professional commitments these past few weeks have prevented me from driving this car and starting the serious work needed to present it for inspection.
This weekend was also very busy, as my wife invited my friends over without telling me to celebrate my birthday. I came home Friday evening, and they were all around the table with a couple of bottles of champagne! :welcome:

They offered me a die-cast model of the Duster: same year, same color.
IMG-20250324-WA0004.jpg
IMG-20250324-WA0008.jpg


I still took the time to install the hood scoops and the rear spoiler last week: personally, I think its exterior is now perfect for what I wanted! Among the easy jobs, I replaced the gas cap gasket too: I have the perfect gasket in my range (at work), and it took me about 15 seconds...
I think I'll receive my parts order within two weeks, and then I'll be able to take the car to a body shop to redo the rear section of the chassis.

My neighbors have already almost all come to see me flimsy pretexts ("can you lend me your 10mm socket?") . I think it's to see the car up close: there aren't many classic cars in the neighborhood, and I think they've spotted me.
The local police also greeted me Saturday morning when I went to get beers for my friends: I think the next time I see them in the Duster, they'll want to stop for a chat and to see the car. :D
 
Welcome to FABO! That's a nice looking Duster, and it sounds like you are working hard to keep it nice. Hopefully, the frame rail repair won't be too big of an issue for a professional body shop. According to the fender tag, it was originally dark green, but I like the Vitamin C color much better. There is another member on here that lives, I think, somewhere in the South of France who has a very nice Dodge Demon. He is @French demon I tagged him so he will see your thread. Looking forward to reading your updates.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

Hi there, I am currently interested on an aftermarket tach as my car came from factory with a standard non-rallye dash.

I don't want to run a Sun tach inside the car, this would be bulky and prominent and I don't like it (although I had an Autometer in my non-rallye 74 Charger). Friends tell me to mount it on the dash pad, on the steering column, or to find a small one to fit in the left part of the dash...
I remember that hood mounted tachs were dealer installed options in the 70's, and after a quick search browsing the web to find information on these, I finally ended here on FABO ! :thumbsup:

(I should have started my search here...:lol:)

Now I know that the correct one for my car would be a Dixco (or Dixco-style as there are some repros selling nowadays). I guess I'm not the only one interested on these, and I was wondering if anyone of you had some pictures of a Duster with a hood tacho? I'm still searching through the "search" option, but still didn't find a good quality picture...

And, once I find one, were there any specific location to fit these? Any template, or precise measurements for the hole(s)?
I do have the 2 scoops installed, and I don't think they will interfere as I saw that most of the hood tachs are located at the very rear end of the hood.
I think that my best option will be to position the tach without drilling the hood, and drill the holes once the "good" position is determined.
 
Enjoying watching your work - what a great car to have in France! You won't see another one like it!
 
Hello,
this morning I spent a couple hours on my car, while my wife was gone shopping.

First, I removed the steering wheel, and came to the turn signal switch assembly to notice that the little brass roller that is supposed to make contact for the horn was not touching the track. So I removed the switch, and went to the conclusion that there was a spring missing somewhere, to force the roller against the track. To validate my hypothesis I took a small piece of "tie-wrap" that I folded in two to make a spring.
Once everything back for testing: "tadaaaa"! The horn is now working again:thumbsup:, and the neighbors came to check what's going on! :wtf:
On the picture (taken before cleaning everything), you can notice the small bent piece of white tie wrap sticking out from under the roller :
horn switch spring.jpg

Needless to say that I was happy, and that I will change this for a more elaborate spring now that I know were to go (and man, I saved 50€ on this one, but more important I did it myself!)

Then, my wife came back (with some groceries and French wine, ah ah haaa!), and I asked her to give a hand: due to the go-wing weight addition to the trunk, I need to have more preload on the trunk opening torsion springs. So she took a flat strap to pull the springs while I put their end in the correct holes.
Another easy job done! Thanks sweetie:thankyou: What's for lunch?:lol:

I also repaired/cleaned the door switches to have the dome light working again: small bugs like these are easy to fix, and this is good to keep the motivation at its highest...

I am currently ordering everything I need to have the headlights reworked too:
  • a couple of Hella brand p/n 1A6 002 395 071 European specs H4 headlamps with parking lights feature,
  • a 12v relays and fuses box. It is a 6 channel: one for low beam, one for hi beam, four spares (I'll maybe use one for an air horn, and others for the wiper motor?), and 6 fuses.
  • 2.5 and 4 mm² wires, terminals, wiring ducts, ...
I plan to have the headlights operated with relays, the cable sections will be calculated for peak current (1 mm² goes for 7Amps of current), just to make sure that the light will be 100% efficient.
This will be my next job, I hope to do this next week-end before sending the car to the body shop if I receive everything on time.

Enjoy your week-end!
 
Another Saturday, another job done :thumbsup:

This morning I started from the firewall connectors, and I removed all the cables involved in front lights/turn signals/horn. Then, I put my relay box (from amazon / chinese) on the left fender, between the battery and the windshield washer reservoir.

image0000001.jpg(1).jpeg


This picture was taken at an early stage of mods: I since changed the fuse ratings, and put relays where needed.
I then rebuilt then entire front wiring harness, using color coded wires connected to the original sockets, and black sheaths.
The two sealed beams are now history, and two brand new Hellas are now proudly lighting the road :steering:The general appearance of the new wiring harness is maybe a little too modern (I use corrugated sheathing), but I tried to hide the cables as much as possible.

Fun fact: while I was moving and cleaning the firewall connectors, I think I got rid of another bug! My wiper motor has now TWO speeds! Whohooooo ! :D

Now it's time for a beer and some aperitifs :thumbsup:
 
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Hi folks, this thread to share the WIP on my 70 Duster with it's 318/904 combo.
As I said in my presentation, my goal is to have the car running "as is" for the next 4 years or so, and then to restore it from ground (once I retire). This is why I'm not calling this a restoration, but more likely a restarting process.
View attachment 1716373306

This car was sold to a French guy 6 years ago, it was imported from Oregon state. At that time, paint was shiny (it allways will on pictures!), and so was the engine bay.
This car sat for 6 years in a barn in northwestern France -close to Mont Saint Michel in Normandy-, and was driven for only short trips: 4000 miles in 6 years. Local weather and humidity left some visible damage on the car: a little bit of rust here and there, aluminum parts (intake/carb/head covers) began to oxydize, a strong musty smell inside...

So I drove it back home a week ago, driving my 1300 km / 800 mi journey in only 2 days. Imagine that I spent less than one hour with former owner including paperwork before I started my trip! Drive it like you stole just bought it! :steering:
Driving at night, under heavy rain, with a car you don't its history was a great adventure but come on: it's a Mopar, so it's a good car!

(Skip that next paragraph if you don't like grumpy old men :lol: ) I had time yesterday to have a deeper look and I will always be amazed by the real state of cars supposedly restored by owners who ultimately only do a crude make-up. I found small pieces of sheet metal held together with pop rivets, strips of sheet metal intended to hide the misery, a lot of fiberglass, makeshift repairs. But everything is hidden under a layer of shiny paint that looks the part from a distance. The engine was repainted red (the paint is flaking and does not hold), but the entire lower part of the engine remained blue: who wants to paint an engine without even cleaning it of its grease? Without taking it out to detail it properly?
When you start a restoration project, I thought that you did it above all to have a base free of all reproach and that the paint finish was only the final step in a long process... it's a shame to paint over the misery, right?

It's got the fender plate, it also has the windshied area VIN plate, the door sticker.
To start, here's what I know about the car: it was produced for the Canadian market, had a radio, and that's about all I could decode from the fender tag.

View attachment 1716373259

I did a good inspection of the chassis, the engine bay and the drivetrain. Now I'm finding myself with a list of issues to solve before I can have it inspected...
  • there is some rust on the rear fenders (between wheels and bumper), need to cut/weld,
  • the rear leaf spring brackets were somewhat "incorporated" to the chassis with lots of bad weldings and need to be replaced,
  • rear frame rails have some holes that will be "patched",
  • there is a hole between the trunk center section and the right trunk extension floor (patch will do the job),
  • another hole in the far right rear side of the trunk extension floor,
  • the wheel studs will be replaced because some were replaced with incorrect diameter ones: 20 studs/20 nuts ordered,
  • the brakes will need a good maintenance: hoses, shoes, drum rectification, power booster refurbishment,
  • I'll change the engine mounts because they look "tired"...,
  • I need to work on the headligths adjustment screws: so rusty that they broke when trying to adjust the look-my-feet-lamps (new set in approach),
  • I'll try to have the 1406 Edelbrock carb ultrasonic cleaned,
  • need to check also ignition timing, carb settings, plugs, wires, etc.
  • I'll add a mirror on the right side because my wifes plans to drive it too,
  • I need to clean everything/everywhere, get rid of oil in engine bay, remove surface oxidation on carb,
  • the horn won't blow: maybe the copper friction track (because I hear crunchy bad noises when turning the steering wheel),
  • the ammeter & the water temp gauge do not work: I need also to check lectricity/dashboard,
  • the wiper motor only works on low speed,
  • both light and wiper switches will be replaced,
  • a small exhaust leakage
I spent my saturday afternoon browsing websites to order parts, trying to order everything I need.
Beside these "mandatory" works, I also ordered a wing mounting bracket set and I'll try also to install the two hood scoops.
=> Fun fact: hood scoops inserts are metric: way easyier for me to get M6 bolts and nuts!

I'll try to update this thread as soon as I'll make some progress: parts are on the way but it may take up to 4 weeks before delivery, and I have little time to spend on this project.

Stay tuned :thankyou:
Just a mention........If you do not ave a factory service manual, wander over to MyMopar.com and download one for free. Two volumes, Chassis and Body.
 
think its great to have you here
never thought to read of a demon in france
and your engish is better then mine.......
one of my customers is from sweden ...says old caddilics are big over there ....aren't the roads tight for big cars
 
Hello folks, this morning I finally succeeded in restoring the front parking lights! I had to clean up a little the mess the previous owner(s) let, and now it's working well.

I also installed a retro looking / modern Caliber radio with CD/USB/Bluetooth/etc., along with FM amplified windshield antenna to enjoy some music (Led Zeppelin, Bruce Springsteen, Chicago, Kansas, and many more).

I was asking to myself: are the wiper switches all the same? I mean, I plan to buy an in-line washer fluid pump, and I saw on the electrical schematics (downloaded from MyMopar!) that there should be a position on the switch to activate such pump... is it by pressing it? If so, there should be very little difficulties to fit a pump, right? Using the brown cable located on slot "M"/center bulkhead connector.
I could thus eliminate the foot pump, and reuse the hole for the pipes to install a bulkhead connector which would allow me to relocate the fuse box in the engine bay. I feel very difficult to have to crawl under the dashboard to replace an old glass fuse: I will use something like this: fuse box on French Amazon.

This will be my next Saturday job, and I'll try also to have the passenger door switch working with the dome light.

Now it's time to enjoy a beer and a rugby game! Cheers and Happy Easter!
:thumbsup:

P.S. Maybe some will consider me a heretic with the modifications I plan, but all the changes and concessions to modernity are there so that I can enjoy the car, and to improve its reliability. At the same time, I take the opportunity to know it in detail... and it's never wasted time!
 
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I all most thought you were trolling us
And were an American
Till you said rugby
Cheers my Mopar brother
Happy Easter
 
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