Overcharging, 2 fld alternator question
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
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OK, so i removed relay. As the orig issue remained, i figured i may as well go back to square one lol.
So 0.8V at blue ign 1 on br and batt +ve key on. The blue/tracer wire at N cavity eng side bulkhead felt a little soft. So i replaced that wire(N cavity to splice for ecu and br) to eliminate it as the issue. No change, so I'm leaning to under dash issue.
N cavity at BH with new wire and batt +ve, 1V.
Now to under dash. Same scenario, key on not running.
From N at BH dash side and blue ign1 at switch, 0.6V
From 12V red at switch to blue ign1 at switch 0.3mV
From red 12V at switch to N BH dash side 0.7V
From Red 12V at switch to welded splice(5 wires total) 0
3mV.
Here's pics of ign key schematic, remember ammeter bypassed. Welded splice appears good solid.
Thanks all
So 0.8V at blue ign 1 on br and batt +ve key on. The blue/tracer wire at N cavity eng side bulkhead felt a little soft. So i replaced that wire(N cavity to splice for ecu and br) to eliminate it as the issue. No change, so I'm leaning to under dash issue.
N cavity at BH with new wire and batt +ve, 1V.
Now to under dash. Same scenario, key on not running.
From N at BH dash side and blue ign1 at switch, 0.6V
From 12V red at switch to blue ign1 at switch 0.3mV
From red 12V at switch to N BH dash side 0.7V
From Red 12V at switch to welded splice(5 wires total) 0
3mV.
Here's pics of ign key schematic, remember ammeter bypassed. Welded splice appears good solid.
Thanks all
I agree, so if the thing is over charging at this point it's the VR more likely than not.
I have a VR, nothing wrong with it but it charges at 15+ vs the one that has been on for 20 to 30 years.
I have also removed the blue wire from my VR and run an 18 awg jumper directly from the battery positive and the alt meter started swinging wildly. Answer that one?
Sorry for thickheaedness, bear with me.
As I mentioned relay was removed to return to prev setup.
I interpreted a reading of 0.9V at N cavity engine side and batt +ve, to mean there was a drop under the dash?
So from that point i started to test under the dash. Here are measurements
As I mentioned relay was removed to return to prev setup.
I interpreted a reading of 0.9V at N cavity engine side and batt +ve, to mean there was a drop under the dash?
So from that point i started to test under the dash. Here are measurements
Sorry I can not read that
Maybe coincidentally 2 issues.......Pre and post cavity N?
Sorry, I'll redo Del.
Could be Troy, but there no fluctuations on engine side that I can find.
Could be Troy, but there no fluctuations on engine side that I can find.
OK, I'll type out my chicken scratch lol.
All these tests are key on not running, all hooked up.
1. N cavity under dash BH TO blue/tracer at ign switch 0.6V
2. N cavity under dash BH TO 12V large welded splice, 0.6V
3. N BH cavity under dash to Red 12v@switch 0.7V
4. Red 12V @ ign switch to blue/tracer(ign1)@switch 0.3mV
5. Red 12v @ ign switch to large welded splice 0.3mV
6. Batt +ve to N cavity bulkhead under dash 1.1V.
All these tests are key on not running, all hooked up.
1. N cavity under dash BH TO blue/tracer at ign switch 0.6V
2. N cavity under dash BH TO 12V large welded splice, 0.6V
3. N BH cavity under dash to Red 12v@switch 0.7V
4. Red 12V @ ign switch to blue/tracer(ign1)@switch 0.3mV
5. Red 12v @ ign switch to large welded splice 0.3mV
6. Batt +ve to N cavity bulkhead under dash 1.1V.
When measuring drop you either need to measure to a good battery ground or direct / as direct as you can get to the battery pos. As you are measuring to the blu tracer here, you are already "down in" the harness, and your readings will only confuse you
You need to rig up a wire, alligator clips or otherwise, maybe 8ft long to extend to battery neg or to the stud on the relay. you can go to the battery, just be very careful you don't short the damn thing
You need to rig up a wire, alligator clips or otherwise, maybe 8ft long to extend to battery neg or to the stud on the relay. you can go to the battery, just be very careful you don't short the damn thing
That's what I did Del, as in my twisted mind the reading for #6 above (1.1V) made me think the drop was under dash?
I've got the tools just not the smarts...
I'm leaning towards ordering one of these adjustables?
# C8313 - Heavy Duty External Chrysler type, Voltage Regulator with Adjustable Voltage
I've got the tools just not the smarts...
I'm leaning towards ordering one of these adjustables?
# C8313 - Heavy Duty External Chrysler type, Voltage Regulator with Adjustable Voltage
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Well you need to find and fix the problem. Why did you pull the relay back out?
The relay path is very simple and eliminates a bunch of harness and eliminates the key switch as a cause. The high current load path of the relay is --start relay---fused new wire---through the relay contacts--to the underhood blue feeding the ignition and althernator field, and VR.
You had that wired, and yet you claim were measuring a drop. If that is so, the drop HAD to be in about 2 ft of wire. The new wire added, the relay, and the blue feeding the VR/ field/ ignition.
I keep telling you, you should try and find a second set of eyes. Does not need to be a Mopar guy, just someone who understands auto electrical. There is something simple, here, and you are somehow missing it.
The relay path is very simple and eliminates a bunch of harness and eliminates the key switch as a cause. The high current load path of the relay is --start relay---fused new wire---through the relay contacts--to the underhood blue feeding the ignition and althernator field, and VR.
You had that wired, and yet you claim were measuring a drop. If that is so, the drop HAD to be in about 2 ft of wire. The new wire added, the relay, and the blue feeding the VR/ field/ ignition.
I keep telling you, you should try and find a second set of eyes. Does not need to be a Mopar guy, just someone who understands auto electrical. There is something simple, here, and you are somehow missing it.
Relay was pulled as I saw no change in testing results prior to installing relay vs after installing. I "thought" removing it would help pinpoint the problem as well as getting me back to square one.
I realize there is something simple I am missing. That's why I call electrical, voodoo.
I have done what I thought were "upgrades"(MAD, 70+charging and elec ign). As you may be able to tell, I've been reading thru older threads and giving "likes, etc" on "overcharging", hoping for **** to sink in.
Unfortunately not. Just about ready to invest in a FOR SALE sign...
I realize there is something simple I am missing. That's why I call electrical, voodoo.
I have done what I thought were "upgrades"(MAD, 70+charging and elec ign). As you may be able to tell, I've been reading thru older threads and giving "likes, etc" on "overcharging", hoping for **** to sink in.
Unfortunately not. Just about ready to invest in a FOR SALE sign...
Do you mean the jumper goes from blue fld terminal to batt +ve?
That will not prove or change the problem. The issue is the VR "is it' getting full batt V so it can properly sense, is the VR regulating at the proper set point of nominal 14V (IE is it good or defective) or is there some wild card.
Steve why don't you try this. You have that VR pigtail. You will have to manually disconnect his test after shutdown, or it will draw current. Cut the blue wire at the VR pigtail, runa GOOD connection wire direct from the blue VR wire right to the big stud on the start relay. See if the battery settles down to about 14V. In other words, temp power the VR direct from the battery. Leave all other wiring connected as normal.
Picking away at it, replaced a few wires/connections. Company coming this weekend, but hope to reinstall the relay again.
Got @MadScientistMat new VR. Totally impressed. Here's a couple videos with it temporarily installed.
Thanks Matt!
Thanks Matt!
mopar head
DoD nuisance Alien/Squatch extermination team
Got @MadScientistMat new VR. Totally impressed. Here's a couple videos with it temporarily installed.
Thanks Matt!
So, does this mean your not going to sell your car now out of frustration?
Lol, hopefully keep it but for the right price ya never know!
So, does this mean your not going to sell your car now out of frustration?
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