Racing 727 help.

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moparmarks

zippindippintie
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So we are working on an x drag car that has a racing 727 in it. It has a reverse manual shift valve body, transbrake, high stall converter and all that. We are making a pro street out of it and just got it going. It has 20 easy miles on it and we lost second gear. It still has first and third. I pulled the pan to find this broken lever. What is it? How did I break it and is it hard to replace?
Many thanks

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If you pull the starter & dust cover, there's access to the dowel pin that holds that apply lever in. You can see here, where it goes. Though it will be easier to do it with the tranny pulled.
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Highly doubt you can do that with it installed in the car. But look in there and see. The converter blocks this area, but maybe an 8" racing unit will give you room.

Pic #2 The bore for the pivot shaft is behind this circled plug. The shaft will come out the front. They had this problem before, see the strut with a welded brace on it.

Flip the broken lever over and it will have the ratio on it. Get he same ratio again. This ratio effects 2-3 shift timing in the trans.

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Highly doubt you can do that with it installed in the car. But look in there and see.

Pic #2 The bore for the pivot shaft is behind this circled plug. The shaft will come out the front. They had this problem before, see the strut with a welded brace on it.

Flip the broken lever over and it will have the ratio on it. Get he same ratio again. This ratio effects 2-3 shift timing in the trans.

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Agreed...I forgot to mention that I was able to get at mine once because of the small converter style and flexplate combo I have on mine.
 
A couple 1/4" wobbly extensions can usually get the plug out without pulling the converter. Once the plug is pulled, you can slide out the shaft enough from the bottom to pull and reinstall the band lever.
 
You already have the pan off why not just pull the valve body?

That band strut looks like it took a beating… I’d check for other damage before replacing the broken stuff you see.
 
Once back together, I would be double checking the band adjustment. My guess is that the shock from KD servo was too much, & the weak link, the KD lever broke in the weakest spot. increase the turns slightly on the KD band adjustment, check for slippage.
 
Look at bottom photo in,post #2. Valve body must come off. There is the long strut on one side and a short foot on the other side of the band. Can't put that foot in with the VB in place. Inspect the band closely and see if it is cracking at the tabs where these pieces attach. This trans is hard on the band pieces and the bands can break also.
 

Thanks everyone. Now I know what I'm up against. It has 4.25 on the lever.
Get a billet 4.2 lever. The cast ones break like yours did. High pressure RMVB run this risk. Dealt with this last year with a team car. Tried to pull it in the car but with the kickout style oil pan, couldn’t get it. Just pulled trans and fixed it.

You’ll have to drop the valve body to put that strut back in.

$70 for the billet 4.2 band lever
$35 for a new heavy duty band strut (replacing the one you have that is welded)
Both from A&A

I expect you have a solid kickdown band, which is all I run. But if you have a flex band, like stated above, the ears can break on the band from the high pressure.
 
I'm in Colorado and stock all that stuff. Also, all of our remaining A&A inventory is on clearance to make room for the parts that we had manufactured.
 
I would tread very carefully with this rebuild. The weak spot has been found, so s new stronger lever fixes THAT problem. So if the 1-2 shift remains remain super hard, where would the next weak spot be? A cracked case?
 
I would tread very carefully with this rebuild. The weak spot has been found, so s new stronger lever fixes THAT problem. So if the 1-2 shift remains remain super hard, where would the next weak spot be? A cracked case?
I haven’t seen a case crack from high pressure RMVB. Not saying it can’t happen if a case is damaged in some way.

Powerglide stock cases typically crack with high pressure valve bodies but I have yet to see it with a 727.
 
A case cracking isn’t all that likely to happen. Apply levers and struts generally break way before the case will
 
Post #16. But the OP is getting a billet lever, which is stronger, so the weak link now moves somewhere else.....
 
The forged levers break often with high pressure valve bodies. I once had a certain manufacturer's forged levers break in 4 or 5 transmission in one summer.

We install billet levers in everything we build now--as I don't like receiving THAT phone call.

In addition to a heavy duty band strut and solid 2nd gear band, you will be fine--not sure where all the fuss is coming from about Chrysler cases breaking because of this.. lol.
 
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