Please explain why the glass should be tempered? I just replaced my glass (non-tempered) and the glass business suggested to not use tempered glass as if it breaks it will basically crumble (shatter like a tempered shower door) and require the media to be replaced. They made a 1/4" replacement for me. Normal use doesn't put force on the glass, and I always use the stick-on clear covers on the inside that can easily be replaced when they get cloudy. I see no advantage or need to use tempered glass, 1/4" glass with the plastic inside cover is very durable.The local chinese tool company up here (Princess Auto) sells those clear window protectors. Its a consumable for the cabinet. The glass should be tempered and not cheap to replace. If its a siphon cabinet they don't work worth crap without mods. Just google 'cabinet metering valve mod'. It makes a huge difference in performance and stops plugging. I run the cabinet with about 2 cups of media in it.
It's a catch 22. Tempered glass was often used by sandblaster manufacturers especially in industrial cabinets because it is much more durable than plate glass. If an inexperienced operator has really high air pressure to the gun and pulls the trigger the gun could kick back and shatter the plate glass causing injury. Does tempered crumble when hit hard? yep but it takes a much harder whoops impact for that to happen. Plate glass is also much more likely to cut than crumbling tempered.Please explain why the glass should be tempered? I just replaced my glass (non-tempered) and the glass business suggested to not use tempered glass as if it breaks it will basically crumble (shatter like a tempered shower door) and require the media to be replaced. They made a 1/4" replacement for me. Normal use doesn't put force on the glass, and I always use the stick-on clear covers on the inside that can easily be replaced when they get cloudy. I see no advantage or need to use tempered glass, 1/4" glass with the plastic inside cover is very durable.
I've been using Red Garnet, #40 I think?I've been using the Black oxide media. . Is there something better ?
Yep, Cudachick was spot on. Those cabinets totally encapsulate the blast box with no poorly fit seams. Just a nice, rugged door with an excellent seal. You have to pay up for them, but the design and performance is excellent.Take advice from a professional. Leanna (RIP) got all her stuff from here and swore by it.
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Their benchtop model is on sale right now for just under 300 bucks.Yep, Cudachick was spot on. Those cabinets totally encapsulate the blast box with no poorly fit seams. Just a nice, rugged door with an excellent seal. You have to pay up for them, but the design and performance is excellent.
We have 2 big ones at work with unlimited use during lunch and after work. They are Trinco cabinets. I chased around all the suction leaks from the company using silica sand in the biggest one a couple of weeks ago and the damn thing still wouldn't pick up. Then I realized our machinist was making the nozzle insert holes bigger because they thought it would improve the performance. He makes the nozzles out of tool steel and hardens them. OOPS... But I did learn a lot about the auger system, dust collector and all the suction piping. (it's a big one) The nozzle was fresh off the shelf, so I never thought of checking the hole size. LOL. 300 bucks for a benchtop seems fair to me for the quality of a Skat box.Their benchtop model is on sale right now for just under 300 bucks.
Put a cheap ball vibrator on the hopper. Let me rephrase that. Put a cheap pneumatic vibratory ball on the hopper funnel.I have a Bench Top Harbor Freight one. The Blasting Material doesn't like to slide down into the Hopper. I have to open the Door and slide the Material down by Hand when the Hopper empties. I plan on replacing mine with a Top Loader one. I wish it had a built in light.
I think I saw that in the Blue Forum!Just a thought...
Would clear bra material work as a protector?

Put a cheap ball vibrator on the hopper. Let me rephrase that. Put a cheap pneumatic vibratory ball on the hopper funnel.
The place Hoppy and I linked to also has them, as well as all accessories for your cabinet. I was not recommending you replace yours. I was simply pointing out they had a good deal on one. I have a total chinkesium floor cabinet I got from Summit years ago and I am in the middle of doing some work on it now. The cabinet itself really doesn't matter as long as it's assembled and sealed well. It's "everything else". lolView attachment 1716420564
I already have the cabinet and have no intentions of replacing it. It works well enough for what I do. I just need the plastic sheets to protect the inside of the window. I'm going to check with a Tractor Supply down the road.
I've been using this, 40 ft for $20. https://www.amazon.com/BANLTRE-Transparency-Template-Material-Stencils/dp/B0C3ZKCFKB/?tag=fabo03-20
I also "nutserted" the window so I can easily replace the protector instead of halfway crawling into the dusty, dirty cabinet!
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Kinda what I did. I got a new one, but from Summit. Total chinkesium, but I sealed every seam and crack in it. I'm working on it right now resealing a few places that have developed leaks over time and getting an upgraded pickup and hose for it.I see used full size models on FB market place for around $100-$200. Throw $40 at it for the metering valve, duct tape the joints and you are set. Mine sits outside tarped up quite a bit and s looking pretty sad after my Dart's restoration and it doesn't owe me anything.
What gun kit ? Point in the the right direction !They do leak like a sieve. I pulled mine apart and caulked all the joints. Much better now. I bought the gun kit shown above too-huge improvement
Link?Their benchtop model is on sale right now for just under 300 bucks.
Link?