IS 700 HP POSSIBLE WITH......

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I’m talking STP corrected numbers.
Let’s just say not all dynos give out the same results(if some want to disagree with that point of view, that’s fine……… but we don’t need to take this thread down that rabbit hole)

I’ve had one of my own engines on 2 different SF-901’s……. Which showed a 65hp difference between them.
 
I’m talking STP corrected numbers.
Let’s just say not all dynos give out the same results(if some want to disagree with that point of view, that’s fine……… but we don’t need to take this thread down that rabbit hole)

I’ve had one of my own engines on 2 different SF-901’s……. Which showed a 65hp difference between them.
Okay I understand, wow that's a big swing in numbers, thanks for sharing that.
 
Regarding the 505 in the video………
Almost 12:1, .670 lift 260@.050 solid roller, big intake and 4500 carb………760hp. Which is 1.504hp/ci.
That works out to 671hp as a 446……..so a little shy of 700.

To get the full 700 out of the stock stroke combo, you’ll have to turn it higher, which will take more cam duration……. Which will add to the rowdiness factor.
 
You know exactly what he means, true means no BS inflated #'s.
Some call it "true" hp, I call it " honest" hp.
Well, I asked him what I asked because, observed HP numbers are most of the time lower than corrected. I wasn't sure what he meant.
When I get on the Dyno next time I'm looking to see 700 on observed, hopefully lol
 
Even built as a 505, I think one that made a true 700hp would end up being rowdier than what many people envision them as being like.
True. It will be loud and needs to be kept in excellent tune or else it becomes a real pain to keep running. EFI can help, but then the person needs to understand enough about EFI to keep it running.
600 hp is a better target for a street driven BB Mopar.
 
410… small block…. 592hp…. 3000 stall…3.73 Dr diff….620 lift…11:1 compression…. Efi professionally tuned. 85kpa at idle. Street is no problem. 440 with anything close to this… easy 700hp and street-able all day.
 
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If and when the new 440 source block with the first four cross bolted caps comes out, then no problem making 700 plus hp with ported B1 original heads reliably. But, I can think of a lot of ways to do it it for a lot less outlay, too!
I don't think it would hurt a stock block filled to the top of the freeze plugs. You'd have to have a really good cooling system. I'm betting it would work.
 
I don't think it would hurt a stock block filled to the top of the freeze plugs. You'd have to have a really good cooling system. I'm betting it would work.
I've been studying up on this recently because I'm hard blocking mine. Not from personal experience but I've read that the coolant spends less time in the block which will keep it cooler, but it will definitely increase oil temps on a wet sump oil system.
This is the reason why I've started building a dry sump pan and gathering parts to run dry sump in my pos dart.
 
I've been studying up on this recently because I'm hard blocking mine. Not from personal experience but I've read that the coolant spends less time in the block which will keep it cooler, but it will definitely increase oil temps on a wet sump oil system.
This is the reason why I've started building a dry sump pan and gathering parts to run dry sump in my pos dart.
Either dry sump or add a good oil cooler. But I'm unsure the oil temps would be affected much as long as the cooling system kept the engine temp down.
 
Either dry sump or add a good oil cooler. But I'm unsure the oil temps would be affected much as long as the cooling system kept the engine temp down.
I think it's that you're adding basically a heat sink since coolant can't get further down the cylinders but yeah you're correct....cooling system must work well.
 
I think it's that you're adding basically a heat sink since coolant can't get further down the cylinders but yeah you're correct....cooling system must work well.
Is your car going to be a track only car or do you plan to drive it on the street also?
 
I think it's that you're adding basically a heat sink since coolant can't get further down the cylinders but yeah you're correct....cooling system must work well.
Maybe. Remember though Heat sinks can work both ways. They can also stabilize the temp too.
 

Either dry sump or add a good oil cooler. But I'm unsure the oil temps would be affected much as long as the cooling system kept the engine temp down.
I'm sure Tim has several tests in his archives regarding oil temps with or without a fill and with regular oil vs Torco oil.
Korie's got his ear or vice versa.
 
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