Cracked crankshaft?

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When I refreshed my 340 a couple years ago I had the crankshaft magnafluxed and to my surprise they found a hairline crack at the crank pin#8. It was a factory forged piece that had been nicely lightened and balanced to my rotating assembly I couldn't believe it (Scrap:( it happens, that crank saw 7000 and a four-speed for over 5 decades. RIP.
 
I also have 340 cranks but a 340 won't work. The front and rear journals are gun drilled due to the heavier rods used in 340's. You need a 273 or a 318 crank to avoid balancing issues.
Even with another 318 crank won't it still need to get balanced?
 
So is a 318 forge crankshaft balanced differently then a cast? Im asking because It originally had a different harmonica balancer on it. I did change the timing cover and harmonica balancer because my car had the 70 and later radiator out of a 71 duster I use too own. Could that have caused this? The harmonica balancer i changed too was just a summit brand for a 318.

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You have a 360 for backup?
Experiment for us ...See if its deep, if not..Grind it out just enough, mig fill it and run it. Its just a 318...or rebuild n rebalance the motor.
Im sure no one will agree.
 
You have a 360 for backup?
Experiment for us ...See if its deep, if not..Grind it out just enough, mig fill it and run it. Its just a 318...or rebuild n rebalance the motor.
Im sure no one will agree.
I do the 360 in the truck is complete, i got it to run for a few seconds by pouring gas down the carb. I did replace the fuel pump on it because the one on there wasnt sucking any gas out the can I hooked up too it. When I removed the fuel pump i stuck my hand in to feel the timing chain and it has alot of slack. I was only going to use the 318 because I knew it ran in my car and everything looks fairly new. I also dont have space for a engine right now so which ever one I dont use I planned on selling real cheap or trading for something I can use rather then it sit outside and go too waste. Still not sure which direction too go really wasnt planning on taking it apart.
 
I do the 360 in the truck is complete, i got it to run for a few seconds by pouring gas down the carb. I did replace the fuel pump on it because the one on there wasnt sucking any gas out the can I hooked up too it. When I removed the fuel pump i stuck my hand in to feel the timing chain and it has alot of slack. I was only going to use the 318 because I knew it ran in my car and everything looks fairly new. I also dont have space for a engine right now so which ever one I dont use I planned on selling real cheap or trading for something I can use rather then it sit outside and go too waste. Still not sure which direction too go really wasnt planning on taking it apart.
Sounds like you'll have to look into the 360 as well, replace a timing set and maybe oil pump while youre looking inside. Cracks are funny.. in that they grow at different rates.. and sometimes they arent the end of it at all.. and if you never saw it.. you may have never known and possibly never reaped the consequences. Hard to know.
 
No way in hell I'd run that.

Annnnd....you're replacing a 360 with a 318? Is the 360 junk? No way in hell I'd do that swap.

If you do end up doing that swap....can that intake and get yourself a dual plane. That single plane has absolutely no business being on any mild street combo.
 
Sounds like you'll have to look into the 360 as well, replace a timing set and maybe oil pump while youre looking inside. Cracks are funny.. in that they grow at different rates.. and sometimes they arent the end of it at all.. and if you never saw it.. you may have never known and possibly never reaped the consequences. Hard to know.
Yeah I sure do, I just know once I open it up im gonna more then likely see something I dont like and its just gonna snow ball. Or if I just replace the chain and it end up having another issue down the road not sure how long this engine has been sitting. I do believe its the original engine has a factory four barrel intake and a 727 with the 9.25 rear with a sure grip. I think im just gonna pull it and try and sell or trade for what im needing. At least with the 318 once I take care of the crankshaft situation I think it'll be alright ran fine in the car and sounded pretty good. Not sure the specs on the cam but its not a big one. This truck is just gonna be a cruiser id like it too be a daily. I have a 73 d100 that has a 360 and thats the one I plan on trying to make power out of.

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I'd get that 360 going before spending any time on the 318. It might be a good runner with a freshen up.
 
I'd get that 360 going before spending any time on the 318. It might be a good runner with a freshen up.
I might i do plan on trying to get it running again and at least idle. The way im looking at it is, do I take a chance on this 360 I know nothing about or do I use this 318 that I had running before and looks pretty fresh inside? Keep in mind I can care less about how much power this truck is going too make and at least with it being a 318 id less likely wanna do anything else too it. It really just comes down too which one i think would be the cheapest too go with. Id hate too get the 360 going and it have some type of valve or ring issue. And im kicking myself in the *** because I got rid of the 318 that was in better shape or let it set outside and it start too have issues as well. I have alot too think about, but I definitely dont plan on keeping that crank in it so as long as I can figure that out id proceed with the swap.
 
You can learn lot by pulling a valve cover.

And buy an endoscope off amazon and take a look in a couple cylinders.

Get the thing to turn over and do a compression check. It might be more solid than you think.

No way in hell I'd run that 318 over a 360 you already have. ESPECIALLY considering it has a cracked crank lol.

If that 360 is a 4 barrel you already have a pretty good intake manifold. A stock 360 intake can easily support 350 HP without doing anything to it at all.
 
You can learn lot by pulling a valve cover.

And buy an endoscope off amazon and take a look in a couple cylinders.

Get the thing to turn over and do a compression check. It might be more solid than you think.

No way in hell I'd run that 318 over a 360 you already have. ESPECIALLY considering it has a cracked crank lol.

If that 360 is a 4 barrel you already have a pretty good intake manifold. A stock 360 intake can easily support 350 HP without doing anything to it at all.
Yeah I might just do that i have all that stuff. I also believe my chances of trading or selling which ever one I dont use will definitely be greater if its the 360 then the 318. Alot of people are gonna say exactly what you are saying."No way in hell i'd run that 318 over a 360" i personally dont care because im not trying too make any power out of it. I can understand if I was then of course id be choosing the 360. I just want which ever one is in better shape and would more then likely have to not come out again or have excessive labor done too it. Im not set on the 318 either but I do believe its in better shape then the 360 thats the only reason im leaning towards it. Im gonna look into this crankshaft repair or replacement and go from there.
 
Was told $175 if they can repair it and $300 for a replacement. I was thinking of selling the 360 for $300 before I even knew about the crankshaft. Almost like it was meant to be lol.
 

That spot looks to me like an old balancing spot. I’d grind out the crack and weld it up on a forged crank. On a cast crank I’d throw it away. But any good machine shop can weld it up for you, they weld on counterweights all the time. If it were mine I wouldn’t even disassemble it, just cover everything with blankets and grind the crack out, drill the ends, and weld it up. If it was a $20,000 race engine I might approach it differently but a street truck engine, I’m in the “SEND IT” camp.
 
If that crank was MINE, I would take it to our big industrial machine shop in Macon and let them fix it. There are shops all over the country that can fix that crank so you'll never know it was there. This shop specializes in large industrial and railroad engines. The last time I was there, Gary, the owner I've known for over 40 years showed me an EMD crank that they had repaired. It was broken in TWO. They repaired it and the only reason you could tell where the break was is because it was clean in that area. He said a new crank was over $250,000 and they repaired it for about $1000. They do stuff like that all the time. Yeah, I know that locomotive diesel never sees 3000 RPM, but it takes probably 100 times the stress of an automotive V8 crank. I'd let a GOOD shop fix that in a hurry. But that's just how I am. my personal preference is to always try to make something good again.
 
After seeing your closeup pictures in post 20, I'd probably be looking for a different crank. It definitely looks like the big crack is an inclusion and the crack looks to travel in 3 different directions. Don't get me wrong, I'd still get a repair quote. Anyway repair or replace, it should still have the balance checked and corrected if nesisary.
 
If you stick with the 318, do you have a 318 truck pan and pickup?
The 360 pan is different...
 
Who has details on the MP 318 crate engines?
Cam size and heads?
I wouldn’t want a single plane for a regular old cruiser, but the 318 could be better for fuel mileage than the 360.
 
You have a 360 for backup?
Experiment for us ...See if its deep, if not..Grind it out just enough, mig fill it and run it. Its just a 318...or rebuild n rebalance the motor.
Im sure no one will agree.
Drill a small stop hole at end of crack after mag shows where end really is. Then clean & maybe silver solder to wick crack totally full. Heat must be right! And a large chunk of steel like that may make hard to do(or undoable)or need to be oven heated.
You can weigh the stick of silver solder before and after, to see how much weight has been added, tho probably not much. File corner a little bit, if worried about it.
Get weld shop that knows silver soldering to keep heat right.
Harris also sells a white solder(not gold color like silver solder is)that has a 50,000 lbs strength & might work with less heat.
Use correct flux for alloy picked.
Brazing is old school & is much weaker, but good for a 'field repair' .
You'd have to anneal crank after arc welding it. Less heat to anneal solder, if necessary.
 
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