That will not prevent pressure at the gauge. We are not "there" yet
No oil pressure
- Thread starter Harold Schutz
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Harold Schutz
Member
I found it!!!!! Inside the 90 degree filter adapter has an oil passage that should have a pipe plug in it. This explains everything. 3 holes inside of it. One is oil supply to filter, one is oil return from filter. The other is from drilling out oil passages in the block at the factory. That is the one that should have a plug in it. Thanks to all that replied with suggestions.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
You did get lucky. Congrats.
It certainly lets dirty oil bypass the filter if it’s out.
PRH
Well-Known Member
The real question is……..
Will the OP come back with an update as to if it’s fixed or not.
Will the OP come back with an update as to if it’s fixed or not.
Harold Schutz
Member
No that did not solve the problem. I now have a small amount of flow at the gauge but only about 2-3 psi. The drill did have a little more drag on it than before, but not like I have experienced in previous engine rebuild start ups. I checked for the plug in the lifter area by the distributor. That plug is there. (See picture). Is there another place that should have a plug that was left out?
Harold Schutz
Member
Did you check for the drive in welsh type plug in the vertical galley under the oil sender port? I showed that earlier
Did you turn it long enough to fill the filter?
Harold Schutz
Member
I’m done. Pulled the engine back out today and taking it back to the engine builder tomorrow.
Good luck. Is the builder a "Mopar specialist?"
Also check for cracked/ damaged/ tilted pump caused by oil pan interference, as well as a cracked pickup tube
Please be sure to post back when you find out. Inquiring minds, and all that
Also check for cracked/ damaged/ tilted pump caused by oil pan interference, as well as a cracked pickup tube
Please be sure to post back when you find out. Inquiring minds, and all that
One more thing to have the shop check. If they used ARP main studs, the main stud under the oil pump may be hitting the oil pump and causing it to not bolt down flush against the rear main cap. This will result in the oil pump sucking air and not oil. It's been a known issue that ARP refuses to address.
actaully, they *finally* addressed it. sean (NC Enginebuilder) reported that the new kits come with the correct hardware for the oil pump.
You know, not that you mention it, seems I do remember that.
Harold Schutz
Member
The oil pressure issue is finally resolved. The oil pump was the issue. There was a “burr” on the machined area that mates up to the main cap. (Also the plug left out of the oil filter area) Was allowing oil to dump back into the pan. Looks like it might have been dropped after the machine work was done. Lesson learned. Inspect all parts throughly before installing. Just because they are new parts doesn’t guarantee they are without flaws.
Prelube was completed with a drill and produced 80 psi and all areas are being oiled. Installed engine back in car today and hope to fire it up tomorrow or the next day.
Thanks to all that replied with thoughts and suggestions.
Prelube was completed with a drill and produced 80 psi and all areas are being oiled. Installed engine back in car today and hope to fire it up tomorrow or the next day.
Thanks to all that replied with thoughts and suggestions.
Dat was me … never had to do it till this build .
Do you have grooved main bearings ? If not might have to turn crank to align galleys.
Maybe you figured it out by now? Haven’t read entire thread yet.
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