74 360- Just put this new Carb on (AVS 2) and after I shut the engine down looked into the throat and it's all wet on one of the primary blades and dripping fuel pretty fast. Engine is also stumbling with a fuel smell. I ran the car around the block, and it was fine, but now it seems there is a problem. I just have a standard Carter Fuel Pump on it. What do you guys think? I just called Edelbrock.
Edelbrock Carb dripping fuel in after shut down..
- Thread starter TF360
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Put a return filter on it. You are dead ending pressure on the needle and seat. When fuel boils the float sinks and in come the fuel. Restart is flood city without a return filter.
With an electric pump you need a bypass regulator.
With an electric pump you need a bypass regulator.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
That says trash in the needles.
Two7T3Dart
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...or heat soak. Insulator under carb, or block exhaust X-over under carb.
Could be a few things:
- n/seat leaking. Could be deformed or have dirt in there.
- side of float rubbing on body or otherwise sticking.
- float has a leak. Remove & submerge in WARM water. Shake to see if any water got in.
- float level too high. Should be 7/16".
- fuel pressure too high. Despite what you might have read/heard, this carb design will work up to 10 psi.
An elec fuel pump is a good idea. The Carter 4594 would be the best & it does NOT need a reg.
- n/seat leaking. Could be deformed or have dirt in there.
- side of float rubbing on body or otherwise sticking.
- float has a leak. Remove & submerge in WARM water. Shake to see if any water got in.
- float level too high. Should be 7/16".
- fuel pressure too high. Despite what you might have read/heard, this carb design will work up to 10 psi.
An elec fuel pump is a good idea. The Carter 4594 would be the best & it does NOT need a reg.
DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
Just throw the Edelbrock in the bin and put a Holley on it!
Also if you cant find it check the welch plugs on the bottom.
No, it's doing it on a cold start. I can just run it for a minute and shut it down, and it's leaking
I have heard of a few members that have found the float levels way off in those carbs. Check and adjust before bolting them down.
That tells me it isn't a heat soak issue but float level, needle and seat, or fuel pressure issue. Probably not fuel pressure if you are still running your old pump that didn't have any issues. You don't need or want any more than 5# of pressure.
After repeating myself several times in threads sooner or later you all will listen. This new ethanol mix fuel will cause this issue with all carbureted cars.
The only way to get these cars running like they did back in the day is to add a return to prevent boiling fuel from letting the dead ended pressure from seeping past the needle and seat. This is due to the float dropping from bubbling fuel the float sinks because air bubbles don't lift the float.
After installing the filter on many cars I found you can reach in the window and tap the key to restart the car when warmed up. Air fuel ratio stays consistent while running in all temperatures and driving conditions . Most cars have a problem without the return and seem to flood and a part throttle is needed to restart.
Different carbs will act different due to float composition. Hollow brass floats are worse then the plastic style. I must have done 100 of these returns since the 80's . All the carbureted trucks and cars before fuel injection in 1988 came with a return filter for this reason. I thought many of you would know this. Evidently not. Good luck.
Every car built here gets a return filter. unless its an electric pump. Then they get a bypass regulator with a return, To make it easy to run the return line on a manual pump car buy a fuel vapor line from 71 to 76 it runs along side the fuel line.. That is what I use for the return line.
We just did this 67 Barracuda to correct this problem . We used 71 lines and a fuel sender with a build in return nipple. That is why they sell them. 72-76 tank the nipple is already in the tank above the sender.
The only way to get these cars running like they did back in the day is to add a return to prevent boiling fuel from letting the dead ended pressure from seeping past the needle and seat. This is due to the float dropping from bubbling fuel the float sinks because air bubbles don't lift the float.
After installing the filter on many cars I found you can reach in the window and tap the key to restart the car when warmed up. Air fuel ratio stays consistent while running in all temperatures and driving conditions . Most cars have a problem without the return and seem to flood and a part throttle is needed to restart.
Different carbs will act different due to float composition. Hollow brass floats are worse then the plastic style. I must have done 100 of these returns since the 80's . All the carbureted trucks and cars before fuel injection in 1988 came with a return filter for this reason. I thought many of you would know this. Evidently not. Good luck.
Every car built here gets a return filter. unless its an electric pump. Then they get a bypass regulator with a return, To make it easy to run the return line on a manual pump car buy a fuel vapor line from 71 to 76 it runs along side the fuel line.. That is what I use for the return line.
We just did this 67 Barracuda to correct this problem . We used 71 lines and a fuel sender with a build in return nipple. That is why they sell them. 72-76 tank the nipple is already in the tank above the sender.
Where do you feed the return line into at the tank? Hot restarts and fuel boiling are a big problem now days. Even the non ethanol is puppy pee.
In the post #14 above, look at the second picture down. You can see both the supply and return nipples in the sending unit. Look kinda close to the bottom of the sending unit. You'll see the return nipple. Of course, it wasn't intended to be a solid fuel return, but vapor, but you can certainly use it for that. That's what he's doing. You have to have a later sending unit with the vapor return nipple, or add one to make it happen. It works good.
I said nipple.
OM Mopar,
How do you explain the 'boiling' when the OP has the problem with a cold engine? Sorry, not buying that a return line is needed. Plenty of carbs out there not leaking & not using a return line.
Post #10 is also right on the money. Check the alum plugs in the carb base for leakage.
How do you explain the 'boiling' when the OP has the problem with a cold engine? Sorry, not buying that a return line is needed. Plenty of carbs out there not leaking & not using a return line.
Post #10 is also right on the money. Check the alum plugs in the carb base for leakage.
Believe what you want. They didn't apply the return filter on all unleaded fuel cars for no reason. And not all carbs have hollow brass floats. Also the OP never said the engine was cold. He said he ran it around the block. Unless he had Ice on the engine I would say it was warm.
Leaving fuel pressure dead ended at the needle and seat is never good for the engine when shutting it off.
And how do you know what pressure is against the needle with a manual pump without a gauge install between the pump and carb?
The return prevents the pressure from being trapped. Ethanol has a low boiling point and foams. You cannot stop fuel foam with a float that sinks in it. The fuel foams from heat after you shut the engine down more than when its running. When the engine is running it is always adding cool fuel. A return keeps the fuel cooler at the carb.
I really don't care if you believe me or not you arer not running the same crap fuel where your at. You always have your objective comments with me . And that my friend is a fact. If I would tell you the sky was blue your sky would be pink.
DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
As its been sayd....Float level, but better bet on Needle seats.
It is not the ethanol in pump fuel causing the issues. Once the rubber lines, seals and gaskets were redesigned to be compatible with ethanol all those issues stopped.
The biggest cause of this is the loser Reid Vapor Pressure. Pump gas is blended for EFI, not a carb.
EFI is a closed system and a carb requires atmospheric pressure to function. On shut down the residue heat in the engine goes up and the fuel boils off. It has nowhere to go except out the boosters and vents. Ethanol free “clear” pump gas does the same thing and there isn’t any ethanol in that.
The other issue is the aeromatics used in “modern” pump gas. Xylene, benzene and toluene are three I can remember and they contribute to the ills we get with “modern” pump fuels.
I’m not saying to not use a return line. Im saying it’s not ethanol causing the issues.
The biggest cause of this is the loser Reid Vapor Pressure. Pump gas is blended for EFI, not a carb.
EFI is a closed system and a carb requires atmospheric pressure to function. On shut down the residue heat in the engine goes up and the fuel boils off. It has nowhere to go except out the boosters and vents. Ethanol free “clear” pump gas does the same thing and there isn’t any ethanol in that.
The other issue is the aeromatics used in “modern” pump gas. Xylene, benzene and toluene are three I can remember and they contribute to the ills we get with “modern” pump fuels.
I’m not saying to not use a return line. Im saying it’s not ethanol causing the issues.
Never had these issues before unleaded or mixed fuels in the late 70's . Been putting returns on since and solved many carb rich problems. I am not a chemist so I always call it ethanol type fuel. We use to call it corn gas back in the day. But what I can tell you is my Duster had the same issue with 114 and 116 race fuel. That is why I spent the $500 for what I needed to run a return. Big difference when going round after round with no cool can or on the street.
I would always have to start the car and turn the pump off and on until cool fuel got to the carb until it would idle, before the return was installed. Take it to the drive in up the street and it would not restart without doing that .
After the return was installed it never did that again and the car ran leaner that I had to put smaller low speed air bleeds in the carb. Yes we had rich lean gauges in each bank.
I didn’t disagree with you. I run a return line on anything I can.
My point is the corn in the fuel gets the blame but it’s other chemicals causing the issues.
I’d love it if we could get 25% ethanol from the pump. I could run 13:1 on that with no issues.
But I do have an issue with using arable land to produce fuel rather than food. That said we have thousand and thousands of arable acres of land lying fallow we could use.
Yes, I’m conflicted lol because there really isn’t a good answer except run a return line because it helps and it works.
Two7T3Dart
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Ok...float levels, fuel pressure, or crap stuck in the needles.
Get a return filter and run a hose in a can or bottle and see what happens. Get one for a 1986 dodge pick up at autozone. If you have no pressure behind the needle after the pump is not pumping how can it push past the needle. Your not thinking with your dip stick.
Duralast Fuel Filter FF3421DL
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