With 2.97 gears and street driving 360

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memike

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I need to measure my water pump pulley to get a better line on advice, but I am thinking I need a smaller water pump pulley to speed up my water pump, low gears, 9 thousand at idle and these hooker super comps just make heat under the hood.
Anyone consider a smaller pulley for there water pump ?

Doing everything I can to keep my flat hood flat.

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Finding the same offset in a smaller pulley may be the biggest issue. Or a bigger crank pulley.

There are 2 versions of OEM water pumps, standard and A/C. The A/C version has more vanes on its impeller.

There was also an old school "trick" to help flow and that was to pop rivet a round aluminum sheet metal plate on top of the impeller to help flow. But I don't know how effective that was. Some aftermarket pumps are advertised as "high volume" and have a different type of impeller, but they don't elaborate on flow.
 
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There are 2 versions of OEM water pumps, standard and A/C. The A/C version has more vanes on its impeller.

There was also an old school "trick" to help flow and that was to pop rivet a round aluminum sheet metal plate on top of the impeller to help flow. But I don't know how effective that was.
I have the A/C small block pump with 6 blades on it, I have a 5 blade in a box.. hmmm, not crazy about adding that to my pump .
 
Good luck finding any sets that overdrive the w/p. No one makes an aftermarket single v-belt setup at more than 1:1. CVR makes an overdriven serpentine setup, but not a single v-belt setup. Their "high flow" v-belt set up is 1:1 if I recall.

You can go with the stock A/C pulleys, but then you're stuck with a gigantic goofy looking crank pulley with a ton of unused grooves.
 

but I guess they had their reasons.
It seems to me that they removed vanes in the ac case to be able to run an overdriven pulley without cavitation. The overdrive itself was to spin the fan faster to generate the necessary airflow through the radiator and condenser as opposed to changing the water flow. The engine itself did not need more coolant flow, so the pump was made less efficient to preserve the life of the pump and to keep the same flow rate at a higher impeller speed.
 
Let the heat out . Remove the rear hood seal and the cowl plugs. We use to raise the back of the hood. Let the air flow through. As far as the impellers the more fins the less flow. less fins grab more water between them and push more volume.
 
are you currently overheating/running hot or just worried about underhood temps?
No over heating, staying put at 185 unless setting at idle at a light or traffic James, if that does happen I flip the switch on a good pusher electric fan. Thank you.

What fan/clutch, shroud? Initial timing? Just throwing stuff out there, best of luck.
Shroud, direct fan and a pusher if I get stuck in traffic.. pictures need sizzed..
 
No over heating, staying put at 185 unless setting at idle at a light or traffic James, if that does happen I flip the switch on a good pusher electric fan. Thank you.


Shroud, direct fan and a pusher if I get stuck in traffic.. pictures need sizzed..
if that's the case then i'm having a hard time wrapping my head around what the issue is?
 
when you're at low RPM what happens?

i mean, the temp goes up but to what degree?
At 90 degrees outside setting at idle I climb to 200 then I turn my secondary fan on witch is electric. Then it settles in at 190, I have never let it go higher. Like said I may be just fine and was just wondering about a little faster speed on my mechanical fan, thank you for your time here
 
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