Truck cab question

[volaredon]

Sorry not an a body but very much Mopar, FABO gets tons more attention than for trucks only ever did.
My project is a frame off resto/rebuild of an 83 D250.
The cab I have that was supposed to be so great, isn't. I got blown away worse than when we first talked, when I delivered it to the body shop after having had it blasted bare. So I figured if I could find a better one that maybe the cost of a different one would mean more$$ off the body shop bill than what a better cab might cost me.
I have a line on one than is described as a "military cab" pics don't look anything different than what I have (contour wise, door openings, back window shape those sort of thing). I myself have a bunch of time and materials in this thing before it went for blast and paint. But if I can wind up with a better truck when done, and cut the body shop bill closer to what we originally talked about it would be a bargain. I can mark the current cab off to a learning experience I guess

. Now the back story out of the way
The questions.
The cab is a '90 as is the one I currently have.
would being a cab off a military truck be any different than a "civilian" truck cab?
would doors fenders etc be anything different? Any additional strengthening? Gussets?
mounts to frame any different?
it's advertised as "1st gen Cummins parts" (that 1st gen label drives me nuts)
hopefully this would be a bolt on and go situation. I can't see it from here but I'm hoping that one difference in it being labeled "military" is better condition. I never served but I'm thinking/hoping that among other things "military" might mean "not running salted roads"
Ad says "1 small hole in floorboard otherwise nice" That sounds exactly like what I thought I had in the cab I have now...
how many extra holes can I expect this cab to have come with from the factory, and are there any I can expect not to have been punched out that a "civilian" truck might have had?
I wasn't thinking about this but soon as I mentioned it my son suggested maybe it was one of those military tugs? I don't know at this point. But I've seen those, they're cool in their own ways.
would such a cab be worth a 6 hour round trip for a look?

 

[ch1ll]

I've owned 3 trucks of that era/body style. No military trucks, but I don't believe you will find any diffences between the two, but never say never. What you got now fits for sure.
You don't know what you got till it's stripped and if it has a hole in it there's likely to be more. How bad is yours? Everything you get is going to need some body work. Being the nut I am, I'd go look at it, but that's not saying much. It ain't that far of a drive.

 

[volaredon]

I thought mine had a good roof and it don't. That was biggest surprise. Cab corners body mount gussets etc that are usually bad aren't on the cab I have now. And I already redid the poor workmanship from a PO who replaced the back cab wall for some unknown reason I'm guessing the cab I had now originally came from something that required an open back like a u haul type truck, motor hone that sort of thing. I ground off the Bondo and welded in 50-some 1/4" holes around the perimeter of the back window with my MIG before I sent it to be blasted. I don't like bondo. I had 1 actual rust hole in the floorboard about the side of a baseball. I cut that out and welded in a patch panel that I cut from a 55 gallon drum lid. It was next to the seat driver side.
Everything I did will be covered by carpet, trim something like that. It's at the body shop and they said the roof repair would be "no problem", what's obvious now is a ways back from the pinch weld/ rain gutter. But in afraid of how much more rot they will have when it gets cut into.
If it weren't for the holey roof (which was concealed very well before blast) I wouldn't even be looking at another cab.
Before I started this project I was offered a "scuff and shoot" cab out of Florida from a different forum but I ain't got time to make a run down there from Illinois.
I also had someone in KY via marketplace with one for a damn good price but the day before I was gonna l drive straight there from work (still a 5+ hour ride one way) and come back the next day (and "had" cash in pocket then) they stopped responding, I had just given them my phone number to guide me in from the road and they fell off the face of the earth though their ad remained up a good while after that

 

[Big.J.007]

Man.. That's a whole lotta here there and everywhere type stuff..

 

[jas0162]

Cab should be the same or close enough between 83 and 90. I have about a dozen 70s and 80s dodge trucks in my collection here in eastern ks

 

[volaredon]

So "military" won't matter?

 

[jas0162]

I have a 78 w200 military truck, it looks to be the same as any other truck

 

[volaredon]

Ok then if I can get ahold of the guy I might be headed dead smack into the middle of Indiana for a look then...

 

[volaredon]

Cab should be the same or close enough between 83 and 90. I have about a dozen 70s and 80s dodge trucks in my collection here in eastern ks

Yeah I believe the interchange is at least 81-93 and I believe the 70s ones too as long as I would use all of the same sheet metal (72-80 or 81-93) to go with it but I didn't know if they did different things with the " military" versions.
The seller did say "won't have a VIN because of being originally a military truck" but if that's as far as the difference(s) go I can deal with that.
I'm hoping that because it's a military vet so to speak it'll be in better shape than one that wasn't

 

[volaredon]

Man.. That's a whole lotta here there and everywhere type stuff..

And if it weren't for what the sandblast job uncovered on the roof (Swiss cheese) id be ok with the rest of the issues because (1) they've been fixed "right" and (2) other than that roof deal it's in a while lot better shape than most I see around these parts.
The body shop said the roof sheet metal repairs would be "no problem" but on my end that's more time and materials I have to pay the body shop for ... which I'm trying to cut down on while getting the best truck I can. I do have (actually my son's) a complete roof cutoff from another cab, which might be another option. But if I can find one that doesn't need such work I may be better off.
The other things described above that I have already addressed I'm alright with because they won't leak and possibly get me wet, nor get wet if not sealed perfectly/ so water seeps in and spreads, and also what's been fixed so far won't be seen once the truck is together. The bed (outside) and the seat and trim inside will hide the back wall, the carpet will hide the rust spot I fixed, and the trans tunnel swap I did...
And the doors and fenders will hide my A pillar reinforcement since these cabs are known for cracks there.... But the roof will be seen, and if not done perfectly, the rust will spread and I'll be redoing it. I hate redo's especially those that cost me.
This will be a 3 season daily driver that will be my tow mule all summer for my camper...
I have sandblasted the frame and have every replaceable part here piled up (brakes, suspension, brake and fuel lines, plus cab mount brackets, E brake cables) here ready to go in as soon as I can get my son's car off of my lift and that frame hauled here and put onto that lift... So I want it RIGHT.

 

[George Jets]

I would fix what you got.

Leaky roof cap drip rails can cause rust outs. Depends how far it went.

Do you get water in the cab when it rains? Rusting out in the wiper panel and leg vent areas?

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[George Jets]

^^^

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[volaredon]

Where you show the picture of your roof is where mine is holey. Up away from the drip rail and you know as well as anybody how much the damage probably extends farther away than what is currently seen.... it always is
If this cab winds up being better than what I have I'll be money ahead in bodywork that won't have to be done.

 

[dukeboy440]

Sorry not an a body but very much Mopar, FABO gets tons more attention than for trucks only ever did.
My project is a frame off resto/rebuild of an 83 D250.
The cab I have that was supposed to be so great, isn't. I got blown away worse than when we first talked, when I delivered it to the body shop after having had it blasted bare. So I figured if I could find a better one that maybe the cost of a different one would mean more$$ off the body shop bill than what a better cab might cost me.
I have a line on one than is described as a "military cab" pics don't look anything different than what I have (contour wise, door openings, back window shape those sort of thing). I myself have a bunch of time and materials in this thing before it went for blast and paint. But if I can wind up with a better truck when done, and cut the body shop bill closer to what we originally talked about it would be a bargain. I can mark the current cab off to a learning experience I guess

. Now the back story out of the way
The questions.
The cab is a '90 as is the one I currently have.
would being a cab off a military truck be any different than a "civilian" truck cab?
would doors fenders etc be anything different? Any additional strengthening? Gussets?
mounts to frame any different?
it's advertised as "1st gen Cummins parts" (that 1st gen label drives me nuts)
hopefully this would be a bolt on and go situation. I can't see it from here but I'm hoping that one difference in it being labeled "military" is better condition. I never served but I'm thinking/hoping that among other things "military" might mean "not running salted roads"
Ad says "1 small hole in floorboard otherwise nice" That sounds exactly like what I thought I had in the cab I have now...
how many extra holes can I expect this cab to have come with from the factory, and are there any I can expect not to have been punched out that a "civilian" truck might have had?
I wasn't thinking about this but soon as I mentioned it my son suggested maybe it was one of those military tugs? I don't know at this point. But I've seen those, they're cool in their own ways.
would such a cab be worth a 6 hour round trip for a look?

There’s no structure differences or really any difference on the cabs between military and civilians. The trucks were mostly CONUS operated and not meant or classified as tactical vehicles. The wiring harnesses are different, no ac in the M880 series or any or of the Dodge military trucks. They’re also a 24 volt system.

However, the 90s cab is a bit more rounded and the floors are slightly different. Body lines are different than the 83 as well. Trim pegs if any will be in different location too.

Physically, it will bolt right up no problem, looks wise, may need some massaging.

 

[dukeboy440]

Ok then if I can get ahold of the guy I might be headed dead smack into the middle of Indiana for a look then...

Where in Indiana? I’m in Indiana, if it’s close enough, I’ll give it a once over for ya

 

[dukeboy440]

So "military" won't matter?

Body wise, no. Electrical system IF the later years, will be 24 volt though it can easily be converted back to a 12V.

 

[volaredon]

I'm just concerned about the shell not about wiring or color/ truck's all getting painted all one color anyway.... Probably 1985 Dodge truck forest green PF6 or else the new Bronco "eruption green"... It's also a nice forest green

Ive been back n forth with the seller tonight online ... can't meet up with til Sunday but that's ok... It's taking space at his parents garage, I've done pretty well dealing with sellers under those conditions, don't live at home no more / so mom and dad want the kids stuff gone... Last time was when I bought the frame for my old jeep Wrangler TJ.... Talk about something that loves to rot out.... those frames were junk

 

[volaredon]

Where in Indiana? I’m in Indiana, if it’s close enough, I’ll give it a once over for ya

Thanks for the offer. Kokomo area. The seller is out of town tomorrow, in Ohio somewhere. He's NA til Sunday. I see a listing in Frankfort which doesn't appear too far off the beaten path with parts I may check out on the way back. Depends on what's there with the cab and also how good of a deal I get on it--- if I get it
One thing that bugs me. I get asked to check out cars and parts for "somebody else" all the time.
I have no problem, and seem to do a decent job with doing so. I have "repeat" customers in that department... But, when looking at something for me, somehow I don't think of everything to ask or to look at, often wish I'd have asked more once I leave whether I but what I went to see or not .. I "miss" things that I wouldn't have if checking out for someone else

 

[volaredon]

I would fix what you got.



Do you get water in the cab when it rains? Rusting out in the wiper panel and leg vent areas?

☆☆☆☆☆

I may be doing just that. But if I can find better it will cost me less money in the paint shop.
Can't speak to your question on this cab since it's been in a barn and hasn't seen a drop of water in the dozen years or so we have had it stored there we never drove the truck or came from but on my 85 yeah it did have a leak into the cab, but the source there was brittle and cracked out seam sealer that broke away from its mount. I have to re seam seal that one before I put the ac plenum box back in and the cowl back on. All below the roofline.
One other thing about the cab I have now was that when I loaded it up on my trailer I didn't get out of the driveway (long farm driveway) and the back window about fell out, I had to stop and grab it before it did so it didn't shatter.
Between then and getting it stripped and delivered to the paint shop I talked to the guy my kid got it from/ who did mention that the whole time he had the truck that can was pulled from, he had an issue keeping the back window in place while he owned and drove that truck. But by the time that guy had gotten the truck it was 20 years old already... It had been this other guys "high school ride"

 

[George Jets]

They all come with a history and battle scars, it's what makes them what they are.

You can glue that back window and rubber seal in with Black Urethane 3M window weld sealer, that's used for installing windshields in cars.

Things can rust in strange places. Had a '76 D100 with a nice clean body, but the roof seam had opened up and let water in. Rusted a 2" x 4" piece out of the driver's upper door frame > fixed that and sealed it back up. Those inside steel roof caps and steel headiliners had no primer on the inside of the parts, so when some moisture gets introduced it goes to rusting right now and doesn't drain out very easily. See a lot of the well used D-Series pickups with that front roof skin opened up cause water got in.

Also an old 85 year old farmer had the truck and never drove it to town, think he parked it under a lean to on his barn with the front end hanging out. That rusted the lower radiator mount supports out that mount to the frame, so I rebuilt and reinforced those. Did a V8 conversion to the truck from a slant 6. I had the whole front end off, so I painted all the parts inside and out to preserve them well. Even inside the super structure and the underside of the hood were painted back to the original color.

Box, tailgate and cab corners were perfect, and someone had done a nice re-upholstery job in black to the bench seat > liked that a lot.

Really liked that truck a lot as it was one of the best, simplest years for the non-computerized trucks.

So yeah it's always something to deal with on 40 year old vehicles. Got to commit and get her done. Got my efforts back out of it at the end when I sold it as it was a nice all around piece.

I liked that one so much that I have another rust free '89 D100 with the same 318 Automatic drive line > converted over to non-computer and a 4 barrel.

Using it as a good 2nd spare vehicle in Florida.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[volaredon]

I remember when you got the 89... And simplicity and lack of computer crap is exactly why I'm redoing this truck. It seems like the last few years of the D/W truck in general rotted out in places and ways that the older of them didn't.
I do notice differences in the doors for example. Look at the hinge mount surface. I have 83 doors and I have 88, 90 91 and one 93. The 88-ish and newer have the vent things in the door striker side and in one of the former speaker mount locations, and the hinge end has louvered steel vs solid on the older ones.

 

[volaredon]

And as for the body lines being different between 83 and 90 i don't think so. I know that they are slightly different 72-80 vs 81 up.
As far as trim pin location I don't care about that so much, in fact I'm debating whether to put any back on or not as is partly because some of the body parts I have that will make up this truck have them and some don't. I think that wide 3" one is just a water trap that speeds up rust formation anyway. If I was doing a 2 tone I would be more inclined to put it back on. The paint guys were talking about a painted on "trim" idea and I'm inclined to go with something like that. Think wide pinstripe for lack of a better way to describe it.

 

[dukeboy440]

I may be doing just that. But if I can find better it will cost me less money in the paint shop.
Can't speak to your question on this cab since it's been in a barn and hasn't seen a drop of water in the dozen years or so we have had it stored there we never drove the truck or came from but on my 85 yeah it did have a leak into the cab, but the source there was brittle and cracked out seam sealer that broke away from its mount. I have to re seam seal that one before I put the ac plenum box back in and the cowl back on. All below the roofline.
One other thing about the cab I have now was that when I loaded it up on my trailer I didn't get out of the driveway (long farm driveway) and the back window about fell out, I had to stop and grab it before it did so it didn't shatter.
Between then and getting it stripped and delivered to the paint shop I talked to the guy my kid got it from/ who did mention that the whole time he had the truck that can was pulled from, he had an issue keeping the back window in place while he owned and drove that truck. But by the time that guy had gotten the truck it was 20 years old already... It had been this other guys "high school ride"

Project 78

 

[volaredon]

On my way home with it. Much better except for 1 spot along the top of the windshield underneath the rain gutter. And a solid unmolested back wall. Needs a little bit of floor repair in a different spot than the first cab I had (still have) but I have to cut the tunnel out of the first cab and put it in this one, which will take care of that at the same time

 

[dukeboy440]

On my way home with it. Much better except for 1 spot along the top of the windshield underneath the rain gutter. And a solid unmolested back wall. Needs a little bit of floor repair in a different spot than the first cab I had (still have) but I have to cut the tunnel out of the first cab and put it in this one, which will take care of that at the same time

Can’t wait to see pics!