Truck cab question

[volaredon]

The top of the drip rail is excellent as is the roof and back wall. The PO did say he had a hard time getting a back window to stay in that cab....
But there's a couple of spots above the windshield below the drip rail I was able to poke a screwdriver thru .. I don't know how it could rust there and not on top

 

[volaredon]

Power at home was dead when I got here couldn't open the garage door with the clicker, I want to get a wire wheel in there and see just how bad... If just a couple of holes I wish I knew an old school metal guy/body guy that could lead that seam in for me.... Then it would never be a problem again

 

[dukeboy440]

The top of the drip rail is excellent as is the roof and back wall. The PO did say he had a hard time getting a back window to stay in that cab....
But there's a couple of spots above the windshield below the drip rail I was able to poke a screwdriver thru .. I don't know how it could rust there and not on top

The old seals have a tendency to trap water exactly in that spot.

 

[volaredon]

Got it home and stripped the seam sealer above and below, I should have passed.

 

[dukeboy440]

That bad?

 

[volaredon]

Bad enough. If I knew how to do lead body filler I think I could fix it w/o major work, it's mostly the drip rail itself more than the roof panel "proper" but somehow water must have gotten below the seam sealer and sat there ..it's a shame too as clean and nice as the rest of it is... though there's a cab on MP somewhere in Wisconsin that they want $1800 for that claims to be from Colorado and rust free, it sure don't look like it. I paid about 1/6 of that for this one. Otters for around a grand that the b pillars are full of Bondo, they didn't even try to hide ..

 

[George Jets]

Bad enough. If I knew how to do lead body filler I think I could fix it w/o major work, it's mostly the drip rail itself more than the roof panel "proper" but somehow water must have gotten below the seam sealer and sat there ..it's a shame too as clean and nice as the rest of it is... though there's a cab on MP somewhere in Wisconsin that they want $1800 for that claims to be from Colorado and rust free, it sure don't look like it. I paid about 1/6 of that for this one.

Fiberglass Matting, Fiberglass Resin.

Make it strong and shape it to your liking, no welding and warping. Sand and Paint as usual.

It's strong, it's what they make boats out of. Drill a couple 3/4 holes above the visors inside the steel headliner and spray a coating in there when finished to seal it up and keep it water tight.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[volaredon]

The top of the drip rail is excellent as is the roof and back wall. The PO did say he had a hard time getting a back window to stay in that cab....
But there's a couple of spots above the windshield below the drip rail I was able to poke a screwdriver thru .. I don't know how it could rust there and not on top

Crap I am getting the 2 cabs mixed up, it's not the one I brought in yesterday with the back window problem but rather the 1st cab that I was (and still might be) working with. That 1st cab (both that cab and the one I got yesterday are 1990 models//nether is the original cab for this truck which is a1983) my 1st replacement cab that I did all the work on the back wall of, had the cab lights, but the original one and the one I brought home yesterday don't. I have a roof cutoff from an 87 that I think I'm gonna go get out of storage and see if THAT'S as nice as it was supposed to be, and possibly start drilling spot welds if I can't get someone to either lead in the rust on this one or teach me how...

 

[volaredon]

I've worked with fiberglass before.

I want to see this truck thru pretty bad.... Trying to be my own GC on it my head is spinning
Why is it easier when working on someone else's and spending their money

 

[volaredon]

Ok I went for a ride and brought home the roof my kid sawed off of an 87 that he stripped a few years ago that had a bad frame. This spare roof has been in the same barn as the first cab I started with has been in, for about half as long as the cab was. After I consult the paint shop that has that first cab and let them see what I have if they don't feel confident in being able to fix the roof on the military cab I may start drilling spot welds until the pillars come off this other roof and off of the military cab....here at home. Well have to see....

 

[volaredon]

I'm gonna try and get pix of everything (both cabs and the roof damage plus this other roof panel I have in the next few days

 

[dukeboy440]

Pics might help us see how bad it is you’re dealing with?

 

[volaredon]

Yeah I know, I'll have to get some
I'm pretty much sure that I can make something work now with what I have on hand... I've been looking at Google at what other people have done to fix their roof rot... from surgery to splice in a section of another roof to replacing a skin (looks like Mopar parts giant might still have a few actually) most I see have used a junkyard donor skin) to cutting the pillars in the middle of the window openings and splicing there... at the moment I'm liking the thought of using the military cab and seeing if I can get it filled in not with Bondo not with fiberglass but with real actual lead.

 

[volaredon]

Took some pix today after a few days away camping. Last campout of the year/// went to covered bridge fest in parke county Indiana, we have been going for many years. This year took the cake by a long shot for best weather we've had during this campout. Didn't spend as much on random junk as some years, but did get something I've needed for a couple of years. When I built the garage I'm putting this truck together in I cheaped out on only one thing..,. The windows as I figured "it's only a garage"
And because I picked a size that Menards had on the shelf I figured it had to be a standard size. Nope. Haven't been able to find 30x36 in anything but the cheap no name single hung windows I originally bought.
I found a pair that's really close, still gonna get to do some rework next spring. At a random garage sale in the middle of nowhere (jessup, Indiana) I found a pair of the better grade (as opposed to their builders grade) jeld wen double hung double pane "low E" (whatever that means); the guy had a price marked and then told me he'd give me a helluva deal if I took em both.... $200/ pr. He had wm marked $150/ea. I didn't have to make an offer he did it for me... Brand new still in factory wrapping. Having a good place to work is as important as the work done within....
Not often there's much for car parts (especially not non Chevy parts) there, but one thing I was hoping to luck out there for was a cool looking set of 16" 8 lug wheels.. I struck out there

 

[volaredon]

Now back to the truck cab talk... after being gone for a few days and looking at the military cab again when I went to take pix for you guys it doesn't look as bad as far as gutter rot as I originally thought in the flat horizontal part but seems worse on the vertical face.... I'm thinking that my lead idea might work better than I originally thought it might. I'm off all week, but speaking of windows I have renewal by Andersen coming the next 2 days to replace half of the windows in my house... Having a brick house I don't feel as comfortable trying to replace my house windows as I do replacing the windows in my all wood, stick built garage. Hopefully I will have enough time to be able to make a run to the Eastwood store about an hour north of me to bounce my thoughts on fixing that rain gutter off of them and get one of their lead bodywork kits ..

As for those pix I mentioned... I took about 8 of them on this phone and they came out the blurriest of any I have ever taken on this phone so I dumped them. I'll try again tomorrow.
I posted them to another site I'm asking about how to fix, and that's when it hit me as to how bad they were so I deleted them there and from my phone.