340 or 383 for 1968 Dart

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I’ve had both in my 68 dart. This summer I was gonna put a rebuilt 360 into my car. But I just couldn’t do it. It never came with a 360 as an option. So if I decide to go back to small block it will be a 340. Kim
 
i know, but the gen 3 hemi and 440 guys chimed in. As i said they made less than 15,000 in total so to
alter one a lot might not be a good idea... i wouldn't. Still a guy can do whatever he wants to his car...
I thought the 383 option would be preferred because it is so rare?
 
I took The slant six with 4-Speed and installed a 273 using the 4-speed and it was a fairly easy swap and made a clean runner for me

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Unless it's an original 340 car, big block EVERY TIME. We've done 383 and 440 swaps and have an original 340 car. The 340 is fun, but it doesn't have the torque of the big block.
 
That is true. I just don't think I would bother for a 383.
A agree, if I had a choice between a 340 and 383 I would go with the 440, 340 and 383 in that order. Only because of being unique, I would choose the 440 over the 340. The 340 would be a better handling car, with still a lot of controlled power. No offence to anyone, but I see the 383 as a slug. Only my opinion, never had or drove a 383, but only what I read about it.
 
but I see the 383 as a slug.
never had or drove a 383
a 68 roadrunner 383 in an A-body will walk all over a 68 340 GTS.
I put the drivetrain from a wrecked 68 RR with under 10,000 miles on it in my 67 fastback back in 1977, had that same motor with modifications running mid to high elevens by 1980 in street trim.
 
I have owned both a 383 and 340 FS FB. The 383 was stock so heavy. Putting 0.94" torsion bars and a 1 1/4" sway bar really changed the handling. Yes, a 383 with AL heads and other low weight parts weighs about what a stock 340 weighs, but a 340 with AL heads, intake and tubular exhaust is nearly the weight of a /6. I actually enjoyed the 383 a lot as it was a 4sp while the 340 was a 727. But the 340 was much faster as the 383 was the 290 HP version. I did update the cam and ported the heads along with unshrouding the intake valve to cylinder wall, but the 383 still wasn't as snappy as the 340.

Unfortunately, I had to sell the 383 and have no idea where it ended up. The next owner sold it to a third-party weeks after buying it.
 
a 68 roadrunner 383 in an A-body will walk all over a 68 340 GTS.
I put the drivetrain from a wrecked 68 RR with under 10,000 miles on it in my 67 fastback back in 1977, had that same motor with modifications running mid to high elevens by 1980 in street trim.
As you say, "with a few modifications". A stock early 340 with a few modifications will also hit into the 11',s. Intake, carb upgrades and headers is all it would take and the car will handle better getting there. Another factor. I keep hearing the 340's are expensive to build but the fact is rebuilding is only part of the expense. All the externals are much like 273,318 and 360 parts, which are much less expensive than RB or BB items.
 
5 pages and suggestions all over. Nobody has said R5P7 yet. Small block, huge rpm and power.
 

And he shouldn’t. A 360 belongs in a truck or a bus. Kim
The 360 is a great option if originality isn't an issue (although you can mask the look of the 360 pretty easily). I swapped a 360 in a 74 Challenger and it runs 13.50's in the quarter, the 340 in the 67 Dart runs 13.70's. The Challenger is heavy (relatively) compared to the Dart - something like 500-600lbs more, but the cubes really help.
Both are very similar in setup in many ways, but the Dart has the weight and gear advantage (Dart has 3.91's - Challenger 3.23's), but the Challenger has more cubes and a more cam, with ported 2.02 heads.
 
It's really up to the owner of the car, I could see going with either, there is no right answer.
 
What would be your preference and why?
I recently bought a 383 (69 335 HP) 727 auto swapped 68 Valiant so you know where I stand. It already had the Shumacher shorty Tri-Y headers on it easy plug access. I have an aluminum intake, water pump and housing awaiting paint and installation sitting on the floor in the living room. Battery is already in the trunk. I chose the big block because I had never owned a big block before, I was looking for that low end torque. My current dilemma is whether to change out the lumpy cam in the car with a high lift short duration cam that would match the gearing or change the 2.9 rear end for something that matches the existing cam. Fear of bad lifters is a factor.
 
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