Headman headers

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bahamabecomb

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I am getting ready to install the original 340 back into the Duster. The drivers side Headman header has the steering drag link running through it. Do the tti and or Doug's headers have a better design than this? I was planning to remove the drag link and repaint these headers but at this point I'm wondering if it would be better to just replace. Also, if anyone hade the measurements of the tti or Doug's I would appreciate it as I just had new 2.25" exhaust run from the headers back

PXL_20251121_011351548.jpg
 
Doug's are on sale right now, I just bought a set from Summit Racing.
 
I was planning to remove the drag link and repaint these headers but at this point I'm wondering if it would be better to just replace.
Are they smashed? I doubt it if you are wanting to repaint them. I don't think there is any performance advantage to the better road to header clearance headers. If they are working for you, stick with them. I always suggest welding a skid plate to them.
 
Not smashed, I am panning to remove the steering drag link and to get the drivers side out, then repainting them with the VHT high heat primer and paint at this point as the headers had not leaks before. I'd be interested to see the skid plate if you have a picture.
 
Not smashed, I am panning to remove the steering drag link and to get the drivers side out, then repainting them with the VHT high heat primer and paint at this point as the headers had not leaks before. I'd be interested to see the skid plate if you have a picture.
No pic. Just a suggestion. If you haven't smashed them by now, you probably wont need a skid plate. A skid plate would be a place for debris to collect and enhance the ability to rust out too.
 
There is a Hooker Super Comp set that do not wrap around the center link, #5115. But these are no longer in production and you'll have to find em at swap meets and I don't know if they will fit an A body.
 
Hooker 5115's are B&E body only headers. I used to have a set on my 71 Challenger conv when I had the 340 6 Pak motor in it. They are nice headers for the B & E's, but won't fit A bodies. I prefer Dougs D453's for A body.
 
Not smashed, I am panning to remove the steering drag link and to get the drivers side out, then repainting them with the VHT high heat primer and paint at this point as the headers had not leaks before. I'd be interested to see the skid plate if you have a picture.
I have hedmans on my Scamp. I followed the instructions on the VHT after having them sandblasted and it flaked off in almost no time. I regret not having them cerakoted or jet coated or something. Just my experience.
 
Do the Doug's headers model D 453 clear a 727 trans with column shift and a standard oil filter set up (I prefer not to use the 90 degree setup)? I have purchased a smaller starter so I think that will clear. Also any overall dimensions if possible so I can see if it will bolt directly to the exhaust I have. Thanks
 

$654.57 :eek: I guess I'm too cheap to shell out that kind of money for a set of headers, especially just painted. I've always run the Headman's or other lower line headers and never had an issue. Of course, my cars have always been at stock height and not lowered. I also keep an eye out for something in the road (Speed bumps, pot holes, etc.), which I think most of always do anyways. I've seen more than one thread where people had to dent their expensive TTI's for their application. I just think that's par for the course with any type of header.
 
$654.57 :eek: I guess I'm too cheap to shell out that kind of money for a set of headers, especially just painted. I've always run the Headman's or other lower line headers and never had an issue. Of course, my cars have always been at stock height and not lowered. I also keep an eye out for something in the road (Speed bumps, pot holes, etc.), which I think most of always do anyways. I've seen more than one thread where people had to dent their expensive TTI's for their application. I just think that's par for the course with any type of header.
I’ve installed … cyclones, Hedmans, etc., and I’m just saying that it will be dougs for me going forward. The benefits of the installation, room around the starter, ease at spark plugs # five and seven, no steering arms going through them, thickness of the flange, and the quality of the welds, Couple hundred bucks more than worth it…, but that’s just me.
 
I changed the starter in my Duster in about 20 minutes with the Dougs. Didn't have to even loosen the header. Just turned the steering one way - i believe to the right all the way. I do have a dakota starter.
Wow, I need to look at that. When looking at the setup it seems the header needs to come loose but I need to try what you're saying. Not that I want to yank that starter!!!
 
The higher end Hedman Hedders had a slip joint in that pipe and the head flange was separated so it could be installed as an individual pipe. Easy with manual steering to take the headers to an exhaust shop and have then cut the pipe and sleeve it with a slightly larger pipe welded to the collector side of the pipe.
 
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