65 Barracuda quick brake question

[Blue62Val]

G'day all,

so.....I've read a few old posts about master cylinders and boosters for early Barracudas.
Seems general consensus is that for V8 drum brake cars, if there's a problem with the booster, just get rid of it and run a drum brake dual master cylinder (or disc upgrade).

The booster on my Formula S has packed it in (vacuum canister is fine)......should I simply get a replacement (dual) and does it simply bolt straight on ...... and do I just use a rod that currently exists with the brackets I have from the current booster ?
And, stopping should be fine ??? Car is standard.....actually still building it. Would happily replace booster with another but it's a bit hard to understand what's what (I'm in Australia.....not many wrecked cars to source bits from here )

Hope this makes sense. I just want the car to stop.

Peter

 

[LO23M8B]

One of the very best upgrades for this would be a disk brake upgrade if budget allows. I'm a bit bigger guy and I never had issues stopping these cars without power brakes. If you drive really hard the drums should go as you will heat the drums and create hot spots on them. Those old 4 piston brakes will stop on a dime and give you 9 cents change. And yes no matter what you do upgrade to a dual master cylinder. I love those 65 Cuda's I've got one in my barn I bought in 88 and stored it in 89.

 

[WV64Signet]

Hey Peter

Sounds like you are NOT trying to "restore" the car to original. So removing the booster, you should be able to mount the single pot master cylinder directly.

Looks like the push rod differs between power and manual (different part numbers)

I'll toss some pictures in here to be sure we're talking about the correct bits.

Subject to the thoughts of the brain trust.

You could go with and aftermarket or salvaged 2-pot drum-drum master and correct bore, adjustable push rod.

 

[LO23M8B]

These is a great site. Great pics!

 

[Professor Fate]

I know this would be a pain in the butt for you, being in Australia- but I would seriously consider sending the booster to be rebuilt at one of these two places:
https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/
Home - Harmon Classic Brakes (these guys also sell parts/kits in case you'd prefer to do it yourself)
Both places have stellar reputations and stand behind their work 100%.
By rebuilding your original unit, you know everything will fit and work as it was designed to, with no hunting down of elusive parts and bits & pieces to swap something else in.
One thing I would change (unless you're going for completely original, doesn't sound like you are) is going to a dual-reservoir master cylinder, which is a bolt-on swap except for the necessary addition of a rear proportioning valve and the attendant line/dist. block mods. Make sure you source a N. American master (either drum or disc, depending on your system) and not an Aussie one, since the fittings/outlets would be on opposite sides and could present fitment issues. Also resist the temptation to use the later aluminum 2-bolt master, since it requires an adapter plate, which is incompatible with the factory booster. Stick with something like a '67 or later drum/drum or disc/drum factory replacement master.
Just my thoughts on the subject.

 

[Blue62Val]

I know this would be a pain in the butt for you, being in Australia- but I would seriously consider sending the booster to be rebuilt at one of these two places:
https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/
Home - Harmon Classic Brakes (these guys also sell parts/kits in case you'd prefer to do it yourself)
Both places have stellar reputations and stand behind their work 100%.
By rebuilding your original unit, you know everything will fit and work as it was designed to, with no hunting down of elusive parts and bits & pieces to swap something else in.
One thing I would change (unless you're going for completely original, doesn't sound like you are) is going to a dual-reservoir master cylinder, which is a bolt-on swap except for the necessary addition of a rear proportioning valve and the attendant line/dist. block mods. Make sure you source a N. American master (either drum or disc, depending on your system) and not an Aussie one, since the fittings/outlets would be on opposite sides and could present fitment issues. Also resist the temptation to use the later aluminum 2-bolt master, since it requires an adapter plate, which is incompatible with the factory booster. Stick with something like a '67 or later drum/drum or disc/drum factory replacement master.
Just my thoughts on the subject.

Great advice….thanks.
Ideally I would like it rebuilt, but it’s something I have to give some thought……it’s simply insane with regards to currency conversion and even worse postage costs back and forth. But I’ll still look into it.
Ideally I’d love to go original, but being down here….. I’m happy to simply make it as authentic as possible.

 

[Blue62Val]

Hey Peter

Sounds like you are NOT trying to "restore" the car to original. So removing the booster, you should be able to mount the single pot master cylinder directly.

Looks like the push rod differs between power and manual (different part numbers)

I'll toss some pictures in here to be sure we're talking about the correct bits.

Subject to the thoughts of the brain trust.

You could go with and aftermarket or salvaged 2-pot drum-drum master and correct bore, adjustable push rod.

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View attachment 1716483726

Hey Peter

Sounds like you are NOT trying to "restore" the car to original. So removing the booster, you should be able to mount the single pot master cylinder directly.

Looks like the push rod differs between power and manual (different part numbers)

I'll toss some pictures in here to be sure we're talking about the correct bits.

Hey Peter

Sounds like you are NOT trying to "restore" the car to original. So removing the booster, you should be able to mount the single pot master cylinder directly.

Looks like the push rod differs between power and manual (different part numbers)

I'll toss some pictures in here to be sure we're talking about the correct bits.

Subject to the thoughts of the brain trust.

You could go with and aftermarket or salvaged 2-pot drum-drum master and correct bore, adjustable push rod.

View attachment 1716483717

View attachment 1716483718

View attachment 1716483719

View attachment 1716483720

View attachment 1716483724

View attachment 1716483725

View attachment 1716483726

These pictures are really helpful, mate - thanks.

It’s pretty hard going full on original living down here.
I’ll go as authentic as is reasonable.

 

[WV64Signet]

These pictures are really helpful, mate - thanks.

It’s pretty hard going full on original living down here.
I’ll go as authentic as is reasonable

Let me know if you need any part numbers and the like. I'll grab pictures from those pages in the parts book.

Good luck with the fix

 

[Bewy]

You can try this bloke, Peter he is in Sydney, does booster recond. Ph: 0400 726 778.

There is also a place in SA: [08] 7070 1065