torsion bar cross member

[Miles73]

finished putting in a front end rebuild kit (This Kit ) and it drove great for about 20 minutes, hit a pothole and dropped the whole passenger side suspension. after some investigation i found that where the torsion bar is held on the torsion bar is held on the torsion bar cross member had sheered. is there anything i can do to fix this apart from replacing the whole crossmember? it seems like i would have to pull the body to weld in a new one. i tried to just weld the spot where the torsion bar is held but it just sheered. i was thinking of reinforcing it with some quarter inch plate and welding the in. does anyone know if this would work? i am looking for a low cost solution because i am a broke college student and i don't want to just throw money at the problem.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Usually that means the rust in the area is beyond a quick fix. Unfortunately replacing the entire crossmember and whatever parts of the floor are rusty IS the correct way to fix it. Don’t bandaid it, that can be dangerous.

But, take some pictures and let us have a look.

 

[Miles73]

this is what the crossmember looks like, where the torsion bar goes into the crossmember it just spins, the hex isnt stripped .

 

[WV64Signet]

this is what the crossmember looks like, where the torsion bar goes into the crossmember it just spins, the hex isnt stripped .View attachment 1716484547

Looking for photos of your car where the damage is

 

[Kendog 170]

Might be able to weld in a repair panel but I agree buy the full replacement.
https://www.classicindustries.com/s...arts/suspension/front-suspension/torsion-bar/

 

[Miles73]

where the channel locks are on spins freely, doesn't look to be rotted out, the car is pretty much rust free. it is circled in red, i took a video of it but cant figure out how to upload it. all advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[WV64Signet]

took a video of it but cant figure out how to upload it

FYI

The site requires you to upload it to YouTube, then add a link in here.

 

[junkyardhero]

while that still shouldn't spin freely, that bar is nowhere near seated enough.

but one thing at a time.

 

[Miles73]

youtube of my problem

 

[Professor Fate]

If the new welds just sheared, then you've got one of two things going on:
1.) The metal of the crossmember has rusted thin enough that it is no longer structurally sound; or
2.) The repair area was not properly cleaned/prepped for welding (or just a bad weld).
If the metal has rusted, then unfortunately the other side is probably not far behind; and should also be addressed.
By the time you address both sides, you will have as much or more time/effort/money invested in the repair than you would have in installing a brand new replacement crossmember.
Sure, "Repair Caps" can be used, but look at the CI link above- a set of repair caps is gonna set you back almost $363, and a complete brand new crossmember is $330... and just as much work either way.

 

[go-fish]

Here is an interesting tidbit that won't be surprising to many: The torsion bar pockets are horribly welded. A little known trick is to cut the floor away and access the crossmember from the topside/inside, weld the torsion bar anchor from inside the crossmember as well as the exterior of it. Simply replace the piece of flooring you removed when your done rehabbing the t-bar anchor. Kit Car A-body racers were known to run C-body bars and would have to weld in C-body sockets, all four sides of the crossmember.

 

[TT5.9mag]

If the new welds just sheared, then you've got one of two things going on:
1.) The metal of the crossmember has rusted thin enough that it is no longer structurally sound; or
2.) The repair area was not properly cleaned/prepped for welding (or just a bad weld).
If the metal has rusted, then unfortunately the other side is probably not far behind; and should also be addressed.
By the time you address both sides, you will have as much or more time/effort/money invested in the repair than you would have in installing a brand new replacement crossmember.
Sure, "Repair Caps" can be used, but look at the CI link above- a set of repair caps is gonna set you back almost $363, and a complete brand new crossmember is $330... and just as much work either way.

After seeing the video I’m going with your number 2. I think if cleaned well and ground to clean metal, a weld on the TB socket to the crossmember would be adequate and safe.

 

[Professor Fate]

After seeing the video I’m going with your number 2. I think if cleaned well and ground to clean metal, a weld on the TB socket to the crossmember would be adequate and safe.

Sure looks that way.
Get it good and clean and reweld it. And weld the driver's side while you're under there cleaning and grinding, too. "An ounce of prevention..."
And one other thought- before you weld, make DARN sure the socket (flats) is indexed correctly, otherwise you may not be able to correctly adjust your front end height, or be able to get the T bar installed.