Big block and TREMEC trans

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FISHBREATH

FISHBREATH

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Anybody running a big block with a TREMEC? Any install problems? Drive shaft work? Hump work? Clutch?
 
I have that combo in my 68 Barracuda. I used a Lakewood bellhousing and (due to 2" chassis headers) a hydraulic clutch. I only had minor grinding to do on the rear X-member. The hump will need to be cut out for the shifter and an area just forward of the shifter where the trans case rises. The driveshaft has a 1330 front joint and 7290 rear and mine was fabricated by Keisler Engineering. I bought mine as a kit from Keisler so most all of the guess work was taken out. I`ve got to say it transformed the car into something like I`ve never known. The best mod ever! I`m running the .64 final drive with a 3.91 gear and can still cruise the highway at 70 mph at only 2200 rpm.
 
Long, that is exactly what I am looking for. Is your entire set-up engineered by Keisler (hydraulic clutch and bellhousing)? Do you have any pictures of the work posted on another thread? I hate to have to re-invent the wheel, so I, too, am leaning toward a complete Keisler install. I know it will be expennsive, but having to cobble together a complete set-up on my own would likely involve a lot of trial and error and cost millions of lives.

Was the hydraulic clutch a necessity or a convenience? I have heard that they allow much more clearance in that area. I would consider finding a set-up at a parts store, but getting the proper slave cylinder actuator throw length to disengage the clutch might be trial and error again.

Because I am not planning to build a high rev/high horsepower race engine (just as much torque as possible), I will likely go with smaller diameter headers, probably near 1 7/8 inch, which I hope will provide more available room.

What type of starter do you use? Stock, mini?

I hope you do not mind the plethora of questions.

Thanks
 
I did buy the kit from Keisler. I already had the bellhousing but I had Keisler drill my bellhousing to work with the TKO600. The hydraulic clutch was necessary because of the big tube chassis headers afforded little room for anything. There was no room for clutch forks and Z-bars. The bearing operates without any fork. I did use a mini starter. You could buy the trans and put together the parts you need and probably come out saving 15-20% but it`s much less headache to buy the kit. The only thing that Keisler asks is to have a new or newly turned flywheel and to make certain the bellhousing runout is within tolerances. Other than that it`s nearly plug and play. I never did a thread devoted solely to the 5spd. install since I did it as part of a big stroker motor/transmission install. The posts I made on it are dotted throughout FABO. There is a thread that Daves66valiant did that chronicles the install in his Valiant with a smallblock but a lot of the same issues are encountered in both sb or bb ,so it would be worth checking out. Let me see if I can find the link. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=18384&highlight=5+spd.+install
 
Thanks, Long, I do remember that thread and I now saved it for reference. What is the difference between the TKO-500 and TKO-600?
 
FISHBREATH said:
Thanks, Long, I do remember that thread and I now saved it for reference. What is the difference between the TKO-500 and TKO-600?
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I think about 100 ft. lbs. of torque before they come apart. Lol! I do believe there`s some minor difference in gearing too.
 
That's funny. I guess nothing is made like the old 833 rock crusher, huh?
 
The A833`s are awesome transmissions especially with the 18 spline shafts. Both Mopar and Chevrolet guys might resent the term "rock crusher" you used with 833. Lol! Mostly Mopar guys! Lol!
 
with the tko600, did the shifter mount in the stock 4 speed hump?

thanks im about to do a tko600 swap aswell
 
so you didnt have to modify your floor or shifter hump at all?
thanks
 
RPMmachine said:
so you didnt have to modify your floor or shifter hump at all?
thanks
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Yes there are two areas that have to be cut out and reworked. Keisler has there own sheetmetal that`s supplied with the trans but I didn`t use it. I made up my own pieces that were closer to the contour of the original floorboard.

Recovered_JPEG Digital Camera_4635 (Medium).jpg
 
Thanks so much for the pic!

after you cut that out it just bolted right in place with the parts you got from kiesler. Im thinking of just buying a tko600 from a salvage yard
 
RPMmachine said:
Thanks so much for the pic!

after you cut that out it just bolted right in place with the parts you got from kiesler. Im thinking of just buying a tko600 from a salvage yard
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You`re welcome. Yes it is practically a bolt-in operation. The transmission is modified inside and out by Keisler but as far as fit they have to reposition the shifter and fabricate top covers. I`m sure with some skill you can do the same thing with a donor Tremec.
 
RPMmachine said:
Thanks so much for the pic!

after you cut that out it just bolted right in place with the parts you got from kiesler. Im thinking of just buying a tko600 from a salvage yard
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What was a TKO600 installed in OEM ???
 
i found out that the tko 600 is an aftermarket only trans & im just going to save up for the kiesler kit,its sounds pretty straight forward. thanks again for the pic.
 
As much as I am NOT opposed to a five speed I have to say it really isn't necessary with a big block. Normally you need more gear ratios where you lack a broad torque curve. If I were looking at an overdrive I'd look at Passon's new 833-OD (which I believe can be had in an 18-spline). No extra mods, bolts in place just like the original and, I believe, considerably less expensive.
 
RPMmachine said:
i found out that the tko 600 is an aftermarket only trans & im just going to save up for the kiesler kit,its sounds pretty straight forward. thanks again for the pic.
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I don`t think you`ll ever regret making the swap and Keisler makes it easy. OD transmissions are one of the best ways to reduce wear on your engine.
 
I know the Keissler trannys are modified to fit properly and position the shifter in the right spot... I think it's the tailhousing design.. In any event, not trans from anything out there will put the shifter in the same spot. Not that it can't work, but it will not be "std" looking. I'd buy the kit if I was going that route. Big coin, but I dont know of any end users that were not happy. I do know a few that had issues, but once it all was worked out, they were happy.
 
Longgone said:
I don`t think you`ll ever regret making the swap and Keisler makes it easy. OD transmissions are one of the best ways to reduce wear on your engine.
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yeah i need an overdrive BAD! 4500 rpm @ 82 mph is terrible. its not so much my gear ratio but my stall converter was very loose before it blew up.
 
Jim Lusk said:
As much as I am NOT opposed to a five speed I have to say it really isn't necessary with a big block. Normally you need more gear ratios where you lack a broad torque curve. If I were looking at an overdrive I'd look at Passon's new 833-OD (which I believe can be had in an 18-spline). No extra mods, bolts in place just like the original and, I believe, considerably less expensive.
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i really wanted to go with the 18 spline 833 but if you find one that rebuilt expect to pay around $1995 + shipping, if you buy just the tko 600 from kiesler its only $2600 + shipping

for $600 extra you get 1 more gear & a trans that has been modified for an Abody

Also if i go with the 833 i'll have to cut the input shaft which is a major no-no to me.
 
RPMmachine said:
for $600 extra you get 1 more gear & a trans that has been modified for an Abody

Also if i go with the 833 i'll have to cut the input shaft which is a major no-no to me.
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Care to explain the reasoning behind this ? Is your crank not drilled deep enough or just not reamed for the proper size bushing .

Also the keilser trans isn't modified to fit an a body , if it were you wouldn't have to cobble up your floor .

The passon OD is a good route if you have the torque for the gear splits , fits inside the stock case and it is a truly NO HACK BOLT IN .
 
the crank is drilled, but not super deep, but just enough for the tremec trans.

I wouldnt call that a "hack job" or a "cobble job" .....I call that top notch fabrication, my .02.
 
RPMmachine said:
the crank is drilled, but not super deep, but just enough for the tremec trans.

I wouldnt call that a "hack job" or a "cobble job" .....I call that top notch fabrication, my .02.
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You still have avoided answering a question , what's so bad about cutting the input shaft to fit ?

Top notch ... oh , ok ...
 
I'm sure the idea of cutting anything becomes a "hack job" by some definition. Interstingly, if it's done right, the input trimming means absolutely nothing to the trans, or any use after, because of the parts available now. Mainly the hub/pilot bearing. It's less intrusive, les damaging, and less permanent than cutting two large holes in structural steel and screwing a cover plate over it. My point is, they are both modifying existing parts to make them work. Neither are "top notch" engineering, but bastardization of existing technologies to improve the performance of the vehicle. Top notch engineering would be everything fitting without any modifications.
 
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