Recent content by 1mopar4life

My archery shop is dead slow because of the summer months even with the bowfishing kicked into high gear but the sign and decal business of mine has been running me ragged. Kind of works out well, during the winter I work 12 hour days selling and working on bows and during the summer I make tons...

This is a thread I have been looking for! Did they offer a Sebring Vert with manual seats? I like the seat belt all built into the seat so I can do away with the factory mess my 74 Dart has as well as them being able to fold foward. I want to be able to roll 4 deep if need be in my Dart or be...

Be glad their at least passionate about their ride, life would suck if all you seen were stock Camrys! I would never ever add any trash like that to my ride.

Mine is having the same issue and now that I've worked on the carb it seems my Accel coil is causing this fail. My 383 truck had the same issue when the coil killed over. The Accels I've had all failed quickly. Black factory Mopar ones do perfect.

I've got a 340 Torker 2 on my mild 318 and it SUCKS on the street. Will be going to a new intake once my other odds and ends are fixed. It has no balls under 3000rpm and my engine will only turn about 5400rpm before I see the valve coming through the hood.

I'll go with that for sure, it just isn't/wasn't getting fuel at idle in gear which the mechanical fuel pump greatly improved what was happening as well as giving it the power it should have had all along and driveability like a late model car. I couldn't make it die at idle running around this...

Thats what I've come to believe as well. My issues are stemming from the carb being old and more than likely gummed up. I am looking toward upgrading the ignition system or at least replacing the old parts with new ones to add another bit of preventative maintenance. I've had this car for close...

I ran Seafoam through the carb and then put the other half in the tank and ran the crap out of it after it got up to operating temp. Ran extremely well, ol 318 pulls alot harder with the different fuel pump and having the carb set halfway right. Ran around town after that and had no die at idle...

I have zero factory parts left of the canister or anything close to it other than the metal line from the tank to under the pass side door. Im going to find a better mouse trap than the crap from the factory. My big block pickup vents only from the gas cap and has never Pinto'd so Im going to...

I love it! If it just had some numbers on the doors it would be perfect! Always have wanted a toy like that. At least they crank and run with no fan fare every time you get in it unlike the older ones!

I opened the crimped line back up and it still does the same thing. It is indeed venting the tank as it should from that line but still no change. I have another fuel filter to put on tomorrow. If this doesnt cure it, a full fuel system replacement is going to be in order with a mechanical pump...

Im going to change the fuel filter at my pump as well as get it to do the die at idle and see if I have fuel pressure. I don't see why it could lose pressure only at idle.

I insulated all my fuel line from under the car up to the carb and still vapor lock action occurs. Even with the fuel cap off it still has the same problem. Im beginning to think my pump is junk, filters are stopped up or something to that effect but that doesnt make sense to me because it...

Plugs were a light tan but now my water pump, oil pan, trans pan and rear end are all leaking so I'm just walking away from this project for a little while before it ends up in the classifieds! I can't seem to make it idle up much from 700-800 in gear no matter how I adjust the carb or timing.

I am going to go out on a limb and say the dizzy isn't a smog one. My fuel pump is mounted right at the tank away from the exhaust pipes. I don't have any spacers under my carb but it doesnt get hot, you can put your hand at the base of the intake and it isnt hot even after the engine has been...