Recent content by a1972dartswinge

Yeah no problems there. You'll just have to compensate with the threaded adjuster on your passenger side axle. It will be able to move plenty to keep your axle end play correct.

1970-1972 front are the same except for some of the slots for the bumper jacks. 1971-1973 rear are the same. Although 1970 rear will fit a 1972, it has different tail lights.

Call Mancini Racing in Michigan for TTI products, they will get them to you at a better price than TTI direct and shipping will cost less too. Found out the 3" TTI tail pipes for my 72 dart were 239.99/pr. directly from TTI and shipping was an additional $60.00. I called Mancini and they said...

I had super 10s on for awhile with no tail pipes 3" exhaust, might as well have been open exhaust BUT it had the same sound as 40s, just twice as loud. Awesome sound but very loud. Always always got compliments at traffic lights.

1972 dart - I run 15x8 with 4.5" BS and BFG radial t/a 255-60-15, stock a-body 8 3/4" rear and have a middle finger worth of space between both the leaf springs and quarter lips. 27" tire fills in great back there too...it doesn't look too fat or goofy..

I think it depends on the 'duty' of the car, looks like the first rim has 4 nubs for the cap, and the different curvature tells me its more of a heavy duty design for a bigger car or truck possibly. The second looks like standard duty or possibly newer design like 1970+??

Wheel Vintiques small bolt 5x4", 15x6" front, 15x8" rear with 4.5" backspace. No spacers needed. Tires are 215 65 15 front, and 255 60 15 rear. Perfect clearances and great rear tire width and height. Only thing was on the 15x8s, the nubs that hold the dog dish cap on needed to be ground in a...

Sure sounds about right that you need 6" BS because a Wheel Vintiques Mopar reproduction 15x10 wheel is 5.5" BS as a 'mass production' aftermarket wheel, and your B housing is wider than an A.

I use 15x8 rims with 4.5" BS and a 255 60 15 tire on a 72 dart, and have less room then you do, and I am clear on both sides.

The 15x8.5" with 4.5" BS will stick out 1/4" further than the 15x8" with 4 1/4" BS...You won't touch on a Duster with either one of those wheels and a 275 60 15. It will be close if you load the rear end down or have weak springs, but you should be good either way.

It looks to be missing the lower ends below where the bezels mount up, and all of the mounting tabs that stick off the back to hold against the core support also..

And the "theory" post I made was assuming you're going to be using A-body drum brake backing plates/etc. B-body is wider and beefier so that throws your overall dimension off.

Ha looks like 72blu was writing up a post about the same time I was tooling around with it. I guess he's right, trying to be precise like I am may not be the best way, because there's always a variation somewhere. So I guess start with grabbing some straight edges and a tape measure and get to it.

Depends on what year B-body housing you have. There are Five different versions, all different widths and spring perch location... B BODY '62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge) '64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge) '65-'67= 54 1/4" '68-'70= 54 15/16" '71-'74= 57 7/8" '71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16" This should...

What year(s) 318 blocks can be bored from 3.910" to 4.040" (.130" over)? That's actually pretty cool if it can be done. I thought about .060-.080" was safe before you got too thin. I guess when you think about it though, .130" over is really taking .065" off the walls, and that's barely even...