I used "Quik-Latch" fasteners instead of hood pins on my fiberglass hood, which worked out great.
Quik-Latch.Com Your Authorized Dealer For Quik-Latch Products
The original Mopar part number is 2822261. It's my understanding that you can pick up a functional equivalent for $10 from this site:
Mopar Truck Parts :: Dodge Truck Parts Group 8 :: Used Dodge Truck Electrical Parts
Thanks! I was absolutely going for an old school look. The engine turning was done on a Bridgeport Mill. I had the local paint shop spray "Candy Black" over it. Came out pretty nice if I do say so myself.
I'm running the FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 system on my 67 Dart. My original ignition switch works great; but as 67Dart273 said, you have to wire IGN1 and IGN2 together to ensure that the car will start AND stay running. Easy peasy...
Of course, I'm making the assumption that you plan to run a 12V...
The safest ways to delete your heater hoses are either to use a short loop of hose between intake and water pump or plug the intake and tap/plug the water pump nipple. Here's a very sad example of what can happen when one of those rubber caps blows at an inopportune time:
Whats left of a 73 Duster
A 120a Denso unit should bolt up to your existing brackets and put out ~60a or so at idle. Be mindful of the charge post position on the larger Denso alternators though - alternators with rear charge posts may cause interference issues. Saw one for sale on this forum a while back. Here's the...
Looks like you've found a good solution. Thought I'd post a couple pics of my alternator setup in case someone else is interested in the future. I'm running a Quality Power "Chrysler Mount Mega-Amp" alternator. Internally, it's a Denso hairpin design - mine is rated at 120 amps at idle and...