Recent content by davidcribbs

I found a company out of Royse Texas that seems to have a decent amount of experience with small and big block Mopars. It is Republic Custom Engines. I'll drop off my motor next week for a rebuild, and let y'all know. When I spoke with the owner Mike on the phone, he seemed pretty knowledgeable...

Jawbone - Did you end up using either of these shops? I have a '67 Dart that has a 360 in it I need to get refreshed, and new to the Dallas area from Bastrop Texas. I need to find a good machine shop for that and my '55 Pilothouse. Both need engine work.

I was really trying to get away from pouring a bunch of money in right now, but those rockers I have been looking at if I do need to adjust the valve train. I have the new ARP's, and have chased all the threads in the block. I will look into the Smith Bros for pushrods if I need a different...

I will for sure check fitment of all when I put the new heads on. Was just wondering if anyone had knowledge on the specifics from doing the switch. I can assure my cam is not a .6, and not a .5 either. At least it doesn't drive that way.

Nope, I have no idea. Easy driver though. Not any lope really when sitting still.

I have a bit of a dilemma, and need a little tech help; I have blown both head gaskets on a set of stock cast iron heads. After I took them into the machine shop for evaluation I found out that they will be at least $850 - $1200 based on how extensive I want them to repair the questionable...

Peter, the swap is great from the standpoint it responds at the slightest move of the steering wheel. The car hugs the road, and I have a 3 mile road into work that I can push the car pretty hard on corners. It holds tight, and I can expect where it is going to go. Compared to the OEM gearbox...

I live in Bastrop Texas, so it was here locally that I used. The name of the shop is "Alignments by Pete". He is an old-school racer and builder that does minor engine work, and all things related to suspension. He is the only one between all the shops in Bastrop and Austin that I could find...

Okay, 3 month recap. Finally, I have an additional box now put in the car. Quite a bit I learned about this during the process. I would let anyone doing this install know to insure you do not have quick-ratio Pitman and Idler arm. This did not lighten the pressure to turn the steering wheel, but...

Need some help identifying how to reconnect the Rocker panel trim with the car, after the front drivers side wheel decided to go in a different direction than the car. I have straightened the trim piece out enough to reattach, but can't figure out if I should attach the clips to the trim first...

Got busy at work Friday Peter, and couldn't call. Sitting right now waiting for the tow truck, my stainless braided high pressure just blew apart on the power steering pump. I will reach out Monday.

It originally had 3 for caster, but if I remember correctly the instructions say to add 3 more in to caster.

If this is Peter, then I have been speaking with you. You've helped explain a lot of the system, and what I should look for. I appreciated the help. I can still give you a call Peter if you think I am missing something.

Agreed! I was expecting it to drive like my 2020 truck, but the steering is stiffer than that by quite a bit. The whole front end, including all new ball joints, struts, sway bars, etc...that I added with the QA1 setup have maybe 1,000 miles on it. It might loosen up a bit in time, but I am sure...

Camber left front -1.2, and Camber right front -.9. Caster is 6.4 on the left, and 6.8 on the right. Toe is .15 on both sides. The front end guy seemed to think the additional force to turn it may be attributed to the QA1 front end I installed. It handles great, just more work to steer it.