Recent content by synchro66

Good suggestion ...Ill try that , but first will try using an endoscope camera setup which i'll have to borrow from a friend...that should hopefully detect it. remember,... i said that the both the distributor AND the oil pump drive were out when it fell in so it may have ended up in the oil pan???

Yes. tried but no luck..wondering whether it would have dropped thru into the oil pan?

Long story short, Not paying attention and knocked a small 1/8 spring washer down into the distributor /oil pump hole. ..."Oil pump drive was out as well". Can this washer cause problems by getting into the oil galleys or will it drop down past the camshaft into the oil pan, as per attached pic...

I did , but it’s that long ago I can’t remember. Sorry

For 1968 Dodge Dart, Plymouth Barracuda and Valiant

The latch is from US … it is identical to the the AU one in our A Bodies. Just need to see which linkages go where. A Schematic would show that hopefully.

Yes..I can see that, ....but my question is related to fitment of the linkages. Thats why the request for schematics if anyone has some. Cheers

I just purchased this A body door lock / latch mechanism off ebay and need to install it into my project Valiant Charger here in Australia. Does anyone have the schematic for these units, showing the positioning / placement of the linkages ?

Just put my suspension back together after ball joint and Bushing refurb. I notice while adjusting my ride height , that the 'Bolts which go up thru the LCA are pointing in different positions. The one on the LHS is very tight and pointing on an angle whereas the one RHS turns relatively easy...

Should the suspension be loaded when winding the torsion bars to lower the ride height, or doesnt it matter. Also should ride height be set before or after torqueing the rest of the front suspension? TIA

OK ...looks like problem solved. I can buy a pair of inner rack ends which fit the current rack, but which have lengthened, female blank ends. ...i can then tap a 9/16 thread on the end, which will now marry up to my correct tapered outer rod end. Cheers and Thanks heaps for all your input.

Thanks 72bluNblu for your reply...just wanted to make sure we're on the same page.... the male thread from my rack is m14-2.0. The Tie Rod end on the right is female with m14-2.0 thread ...so all good. The issue here is as you can see the taper is wrong and you can see the "high tide" mark as to...

I need to link an M14-2.0 p/steer rack rod thread to a 9/16 UNF outer tie rod thread for the Rack and pinion conversion i am doing. Do any manufacturers sell blank sleeves that i could tap myself , or do custom thread mismatches such as these on request TIA

Thanks guys…. Great info… I can now Install with confidence