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Good suggestion ...Ill try that , but first will try using an endoscope camera setup which i'll have to borrow from a friend...that should hopefully detect it. remember,... i said that the both the distributor AND the oil pump drive were out when it fell in so it may have ended up in the oil pan???

Yes. tried but no luck..wondering whether it would have dropped thru into the oil pan?

Long story short, Not paying attention and knocked a small 1/8 spring washer down into the distributor /oil pump hole. ..."Oil pump drive was out as well". Can this washer cause problems by getting into the oil galleys or will it drop down past the camshaft into the oil pan, as per attached pic...

I did , but it’s that long ago I can’t remember. Sorry

For 1968 Dodge Dart, Plymouth Barracuda and Valiant

The latch is from US … it is identical to the the AU one in our A Bodies. Just need to see which linkages go where. A Schematic would show that hopefully.

Yes..I can see that, ....but my question is related to fitment of the linkages. Thats why the request for schematics if anyone has some. Cheers

I just purchased this A body door lock / latch mechanism off ebay and need to install it into my project Valiant Charger here in Australia. Does anyone have the schematic for these units, showing the positioning / placement of the linkages ?

Just put my suspension back together after ball joint and Bushing refurb. I notice while adjusting my ride height , that the 'Bolts which go up thru the LCA are pointing in different positions. The one on the LHS is very tight and pointing on an angle whereas the one RHS turns relatively easy...

Should the suspension be loaded when winding the torsion bars to lower the ride height, or doesnt it matter. Also should ride height be set before or after torqueing the rest of the front suspension? TIA

OK ...looks like problem solved. I can buy a pair of inner rack ends which fit the current rack, but which have lengthened, female blank ends. ...i can then tap a 9/16 thread on the end, which will now marry up to my correct tapered outer rod end. Cheers and Thanks heaps for all your input.

Thanks 72bluNblu for your reply...just wanted to make sure we're on the same page.... the male thread from my rack is m14-2.0. The Tie Rod end on the right is female with m14-2.0 thread ...so all good. The issue here is as you can see the taper is wrong and you can see the "high tide" mark as to...

I need to link an M14-2.0 p/steer rack rod thread to a 9/16 UNF outer tie rod thread for the Rack and pinion conversion i am doing. Do any manufacturers sell blank sleeves that i could tap myself , or do custom thread mismatches such as these on request TIA

Thanks guys…. Great info… I can now Install with confidence

Yes..They are a pair 448 and 449 ...but I read somewhere that they could only go in one way, and that was with the L or R stamp facing the front of the car, and what confused me was that both ends have the L or R stamp Cheers

One end says 449L and underneath 174 The other end says 449L and underneath 2HH which end should be positioned into the LCA

that’s a pic of a spare I have which is out of the car? The reason for my original question is that I need to instal the rubber height stoppers at the top and I’m not sure whether they can be installed with the front quarter in situation or whether it needs to be removed first.

73 Valiant Charger ( Australian) A body ...most parts fit as per Dodge Dart

Just need some advice on removing the front flipper window frame/glass. Can it be removed separately, without the windup glass section and leaving the top door weather strips in place? If so any tips on snags to be wary of TIA

preload... 30 thou from memory. No just installed without disassembly..

Yeah thanks Mike , I think its probably a thing ill have to live with...

Climate here is sub tropical warm all year round...

Yes at 1.6.... 115lbs Im thinking valve springs causing a small amount of leakdown over 3 days...timed it at 55 seconds this morning before tappet noise stops completely. maybe just have to live with it i guess,,,

Recently did a full rebuild in my 360…. I put Manley S/S. Chevy 2.02 / 1.6 valves in which have a .100” longer stem. As a result, I had to measure and order custom pushrods. Comp Cams camshaft and lifters. Ran the cam in no probs as per the book and runs beautifully. Oil is 65 at startup and...

Could someone please tell me the thread size and pitch for the steering column nut on 73 Dodge Dart? Thanks in advance. Cheers?

Im going to try out with a sensor that comes on at 200* and switches off at 185* That should be fine on the highway and should keep it down on a hot day in traffic

Have a 30 thou over 360 LA. Mild cam/ 915 J heads 2.02 1.60 valves with mild porting and block huggers. Thermostat is 180*. I have just installed a thermo fan and was wondering what is the optimal on off range for the sensor in this car?

I have a chrome dress up after market dipstick on my 360SB dipstick reads FULL (cold) but i drained the oilpan and only have 3 litres in it?? any ideas??