**Coil Over Conversion with Stock K**

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Holy crapoly,that's cheap! Heck you cant even get into a powder coating gun for that! Last I checked around here,it was $80 per rim,blasting and podwer coating included.
 
Holy crapoly,that's cheap! Heck you cant even get into a powder coating gun for that! Last I checked around here,it was $80 per rim,blasting and podwer coating included.

Just my opinion, beware of getting what you pay for Mad Dart. Please check out his references and see a few work samples before making a commitment. You've worked too hard on that car to let a few bucks turn stunning into substandard.
 
Just my opinion, beware of getting what you pay for Mad Dart. Please check out his references and see a few work samples before making a commitment. You've worked too hard on that car to let a few bucks turn stunning into substandard.
Leanna I see your a night owl also. 10-9 are my favorite working hours aslo. :supz:
 
Just my opinion, beware of getting what you pay for Mad Dart. Please check out his references and see a few work samples before making a commitment. You've worked too hard on that car to let a few bucks turn stunning into substandard.

Hey Leanna,

I use to use a guy that is about 15 Miles away but he recently passed away before Christmas. He did everyones stuff in town, big operation probably about a 15000 Sq Ft Shop. The new guy is about the same distance, he works full time out of his nice size shop at home. I have seen his work and he does pretty darn good. He does all the Jeep Guys stuff in town and they are all happy with his quality and craftsmanship. I am going to have the parts done Satin Black. I seen something new, well new to me anyway. They sand blast the part and then bake a clear over it. It comes out pretty trick looking like a light silver metallic. The blasting guy has all his Lift Kit, steering bars etc under his Jeep done like that. It looks good.
 
Ok, I got the first part of the Mock up done. Next will be setting it back in the car and getting the UCA's installed to find out where to mount the shock brackets. I am pretty sure they will end up really close to the factory spot.

You can see I added the shim on the correct side to add some Positive Caster, seems to me that one of these spacers will add about 3*+ Caster but don't quote me on that. If you put both on 1 side you would get about 6*+ Caster but again don't quote me. I also added some HD Washers in the front mount of the Strut Rod mounting hole.

I took a picture of my soon to be Skid Plate that I will incorporate a Hillbilly Engineered Tow Hook/Tie Down Strap out of 1/2" Round Stock. It will get welded to the skid plate and the K Frame will be notched to fit. You will see what I am talking about when I get there hopefully this weekend.

The factory welding etc is shameful at best. I will be grinding them down and rewelding/gusseting the whole enchilada.

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Louis I'm going to send you another set of lower control arms to replace those. I don't like how tight they fit and the gussets are too low on the outside. The last couple of sets that I have built offer more clearance. It will be next week, because I have to make a couple more before then. Just use them for mock up right now, but don't weld anything solid yet.
 

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Are you using a sway bar? The reason i ask is, you have the older style k frame. The sway bar location is not the same on the control arm.
 
Just my opinion, beware of getting what you pay for Mad Dart. Please check out his references and see a few work samples before making a commitment. You've worked too hard on that car to let a few bucks turn stunning into substandard.
Sad but true. The guy that did my chopper frame should be beat with a stick. The exhausts exits near the frame. That area, after riding in a torrential down pour, is no longer gloss black. Hell it almost has a chalky feel to it......Should post a few pictures of the absolute crap job someone did on the front bumper of my truck....
 
Got the new LCA's and mounted them up. There is way more clearance between the Adjustable Strut Rods and the gussets/tube area.

I measured my ride height off a picture of my old car. In the front the side tread is just under the lip of the fender. I really don't know what size shock to order until I figure out how I am going to mount the upper shock mount. The top shock mount will eat into the 12" you see most likely about 1" and I will set the lower shock mount to make it around 1" also. So with that in mind the shock in the mid travel should be about 10" add around 4" or so for travel and I need a shock around 12" Extended and 8" Compressed.......

Something like this I guess....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-DS301/

There is minor clearencing that I will need to do which is no big deal.


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Here is where I scratched on the inside fender well where the snout bar needs to kinda be.

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