Retro fit 6.1 - parts check list

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Rat Patrol

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I'm about to order the bits I need for the retro fit of a Crate 6.1 into a 71 A body.

I'd appreciate any feedback on anything I may have overlooked - especially if I need the Milodon dipstick to go with the pan and pick up?? :)

This is just a list of stuff to fit the engine in the bay and replace the controller - not worrying about induction, exhaust, transmission atm.


Engine Mounts - TTI - MM57A,
Flex plate - P5153753
Sump - MIL31000
Pick up - MIL18331
OIl plate adapter - MIL 21566 for remote oil filter

MSD 6-HEMI Controller - P# 6013
MSD Harness - P# 88864



Have I missed anything obvious? :)
 
I just used a stock truck dipstick with my 5.7 and Milodon pan. It's not the prettiest solution and comes up pretty high, but it works fine. It does hit spool style engine mounts a tad, but you can bend it a little and use a different mounting hole for the little tab on it if you want to.
 
I'm about to order the bits I need for the retro fit of a Crate 6.1 into a 71 A body.

I'd appreciate any feedback on anything I may have overlooked - especially if I need the Milodon dipstick to go with the pan and pick up?? :)

This is just a list of stuff to fit the engine in the bay and replace the controller - not worrying about induction, exhaust, transmission atm.


Engine Mounts - TTI - MM57A,
Flex plate - P5153753
Sump - MIL31000
Pick up - MIL18331
OIl plate adapter - MIL 21566 for remote oil filter

MSD 6-HEMI Controller - P# 6013
MSD Harness - P# 88864



Have I missed anything obvious? :)

Alternator?
Starter?
 
Shumacher poly loc's
Exhuast??
Radiator
Fans
 
On top of what the guys above me said:

New oil pan gasket/ windage tray. The stock one isn't supposed to be re-used (though I am...)

I bought the Milodon dipstick. Nice piece, I guess. I'll have to mark it for the correct oil level.
 
I'm in the same boat as you Uhcoog. Reused my stock pan windage tray/gaskest twice now, lol. Milodon recommends their windage tray (naturally), but the stock one is a nice piece and works well. I'm not sure the Milodon tray has the built in rubber on the tray either, which just means more gaskets to worry about.
 
Factory windage tray has the gasket for the pan built in, was $12 from the local Dodge dealer.
 
Ok thx for the tips

Got the fans etc covered.

Same with starter but forgot the alt. !!

Planned on reusing the windage tray as it won't have been cycled from new.

I also intend to run a torque strap if it can be adapted to fit - has anyone tried ? ( I'm not running ac or power steer)
 
No need for a torque strap if you use the poly loc's from Shumacher creative services.
 
poly-loc's all the way home,My motor does not move at all,Ha HA but my new cam makes the whole car rock back and forth--I love it!!!!!!!! Also DON"T make the mistake of not putting in oil pan gaskets!!!!!! That is not a gasket on the windage tray!!!!!! Ask me how I know................. From my original exchange before the stroker went in,I had oil pan leaks on my new motor cause I thought the silicone on the windage tray would seal--It doesn't !!!!!!
 
OK - so now I'm confused - I understoood it was like Stacked360 says...that the windage tray and pan gasket is one piece..like this?

mopp_0602_15z+hemi_engine+windage_tray.jpg
 
Thought I would jump in on this topic , Im about to order some stuff my self .
Swifter you mentioned the rubber on the stock windage tray didint seal , i wonder if thats bacause the sheet metal Milodon pan is not as rigid as the factory cast aluminum one . Did you use 2 gaskets each side of the tray , did you use milodon gaskets.

Is there a special main bolt required to secure the Milodon pick up on a 6.1 or is it already there.
 
Thats the widage tray and gasket all in one, it's the same for the trucks. I just re-used mine along with the Charlies oil pan/pick up tube....no leaks at all.
 
^^ Like 5.7 said. If you go into your local parts store and ask for a pan gasket that's exactly what you will get. Also I didn't know it was $12 bucks at the dealer, I paid a little over $40 bucks at Autozone.
 
mo-cars said:
Thought I would jump in on this topic , Im about to order some stuff my self .
Swifter you mentioned the rubber on the stock windage tray didint seal , i wonder if thats bacause the sheet metal Milodon pan is not as rigid as the factory cast aluminum one . Did you use 2 gaskets each side of the tray , did you use milodon gaskets.

Is there a special main bolt required to secure the Milodon pick up on a 6.1 or is it already there.

When you buy the pan, buy the gasket kit with it. You get one gasket for each side of the windage tray. Also, the stock oil pan bolts are too long... You need to buy a set of those, the oil pick up tube bolt can be transferred from main cap one to three. I stole these pics from someone off this site. Really helped me out.

Also don't over tighten the bolt like me... Doh! Torque wrench had a glitch... Or user error. I still blame the torque wrench....
 

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Also don't over tighten the bolt like me... Doh! Torque wrench had a glitch... Or user error. I still blame the torque wrench....

Dont throw out your wrench - I think you'll find it behaved like most Torque To Yield (TTY) bolts do upon re-tightening..... they break.

I've read that the main cap bolts are "torque to yield" and should not be re-used -



Also - I wonder about just "swapping" the two main cap bolts so the pick up stud is in the correct position.

The issue of just undoing one side and torquing it up again - I wonder if this effects bearing clearance?

Any thoughts on this folks?
 
Rat Patrol said:
Dont throw out your wrench - I think you'll find it behaved like most Torque To Yield (TTY) bolts do upon re-tightening..... they break.

I've read that the main cap bolts are "torque to yield" and should not be re-used -

Also - I wonder about just "swapping" the two main cap bolts so the pick up stud is in the correct position.

The issue of just undoing one side and torquing it up again - I wonder if this effects bearing clearance?

Any thoughts on this folks?

Well, in my case, I have the 5.7 car motor. So the setup was a little different. There was no bolt for the oil pick up. So I had to buy new anyway. But from all the reading I have gone through. They have said its ok to reuse the bolt. But it is a TTY bolt, so I guess to your own thoughts. You can order the bolt straight from the dealer. Cost like ten bucks. Takes a few days To come in. I'll see if I can find the part number.
 
Hi Jason

I'd like to replace the #1 stud and # 3 bolt to reduce the chance of breakage.

The part # I can't seem to find is the one for a standard # 3 main cap bolt.

Can you help with that?
 
Rat Patrol said:
Hi Jason

I'd like to replace the #1 stud and # 3 bolt to reduce the chance of breakage.

The part # I can't seem to find is the one for a standard # 3 main cap bolt.

Can you help with that?

I'm looking into it. I glanced around a it today but no luck. If all else fails I think the dealership should have record of what I ordered. I'll call Monday morning to see if that works. I'll keep you updated.
 
Its OK guys - I got it through a guy on another forum -

Part # is - BOLT,Hex Flange Head,M12X1.75X91.50 Mounting,Main Bearing Cap To Cylinder Block 06506272AA.

Stud is - 06506333-AA pick up support stud.


Thanks for your trouble and your offer to help anyway.
 
Rat Patrol said:
Its OK guys - I got it through a guy on another forum -

Part # is - BOLT,Hex Flange Head,M12X1.75X91.50 Mounting,Main Bearing Cap To Cylinder Block 06506272AA.

Stud is - 06506333-AA pick up support stud.

Thanks for your trouble and your offer to help anyway.


That's the one. Glad you got it. I searched around yesterday for like an hour. Couldn't find it.
What are you putting your hemi in?
 
Mal - In regard to the email - Yes, torque-to-yield bolts must be replaced every time they are loosened up. So long as the replacement bolts are factory parts, there's no risk of the bearing bores changing shape. If they were aftermarket other-than-stock-replacement bolts then you would need to consult with the bolt manufacturer to see what the torque spec needs to be to avoid distorting the bearing bore.
 
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