Ugh, another broken mount. Poly-Locs?

-
U

UOP

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
759
Reaction score
55
Location
Plano, Texas
I wanted to get some opinions on this if I could. The problem I'm having is I keep breaking motor mounts, with the one I discovered tonight being the 4th. Even though I have a torque strap installed I keep breaking them for some reason. Obviously this is getting old, so I'm considering the Schumacher Poly-Loc mounts that have the internal structure to keep them from splitting.

These here:

polyloc.jpg




A few pics of my setup so you can see what I'm talking about.

DSBracketwithHeader1.jpg


DSRubberIsolator.jpg


DriverSideOverall.jpg



The concern I have is I'm afraid of breaking the block. See how it pulls on the single rear block lug? If the mount doesn't break, what next, right? I certainly don't want to break the block, but replacing the stock type mounts is getting old. What do you think? Am I over thinking it?
 
use the poly locks. your not gonna break the block. I have poly locks on my 68 cuda, small block. very nice pieces.
 
Why are you even running biscuit mounts? Spool mounts win.

This should solve your issue, flat out. It might be that you're breaking mounts because there's another issue, but I'm not liking those cantilevered brackets in any way.
 
May I ask where you're attaching the torque strap?

I quit breaking mounts after I learned to chain the suckers down,, even my Hemis, - all with biscuit mounts..
 
mopardude318 said:
use the poly locks. your not gonna break the block. I have poly locks on my 68 cuda, small block. very nice pieces.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the input :glasses7:

jos51700 said:
Why are you even running biscuit mounts? Spool mounts win.

This should solve your issue, flat out. It might be that you're breaking mounts because there's another issue, but I'm not liking those cantilevered brackets in any way.
Click to expand...

This has all been a learning experience, and with the limited space and experience I went with the biscuit mounts. At the time I didn't realize I would be breaking them so often. However I agree with the brackets, hence why I'm asking about whether or not I'm asking for trouble.

inertia said:
May I ask where you're attaching the torque strap?

I quit breaking mounts after I learned to chain the suckers down,, even my Hemis, - all with biscuit mounts..
Click to expand...

Torquestrap.jpg


I'm thinking I left too much slack in the chain, but I really don't want to fool with it any more.
 
Nice set-up,, rack and pinion, very cool ...

Ya know, I always used a smaller linked chain, from that same head bolt and take it straight down to the K member, but you can't do that.. and that chain needs to be tighter.. imho

I kinda think your problem may be, with the mount attached to the frame the way it is,, - is it possible that he chain and mount are actually twisting the frame rail at launch ??

my .02
 
The chain does have some slack, I never meant it to be tight. Maybe that's where I goofed.
 
I had my chain just loose enuff, so as not to transmit vibration to the vehicle, and as soon as the engine torques at all, goes taught.. so the engine can't get enuff momentum to "snap" the chain, and "tug" on the frame..

Your chain is pretty loose, and when it slips around on that bolt, will be looser.. Try twisting the chain to shorten it, till you can just get a bolt started, tighten it down,, torque the motor,, and check for slop.. imho
 
Ditch the chain for a .5" thread turn buckle. Adjust it till just hand tight then tighten down with a lock nut. Been running this setup in my Duster for years, haven't lost a mount yet.
 
skrews said:
Ditch the chain for a .5" thread turn buckle. Adjust it till just hand tight then tighten down with a lock nut. Been running this setup in my Duster for years, haven't lost a mount yet.
Click to expand...
x2 on the turnbuckle,my dart has one works much better than a chain....:p
 
I,ve been running solid mounts(homemade)for 3 yrs,never a problem.Maybe with new mounts you can add a turnbuckle at the head and one at the back of the block also.You could also McGiver a plate/bracket at the engine/trans for added support.Good luck.
 
I also had the same problem with motor mounts, a set of brand new stock mounts didn't even last a Summer in my Dart. I went with the Shumacher poly-locs and have been good ever since.
 
Another concern: Where are you buying your mounts? Autozone and O'rielly's are pure trash; a total waste of rubber and steel. The spool mounts on my Neon got replaced with O'reilly "lifetime" warranty units that failed in a month. Carquest for the win.
 
Put on a set of solid mounts and be done with it....no chain....no fuss, AND cheap to boot. I have had solid mounts on my car for 13 years, no problems.
 
I read this on another site,quote, "Most auto part store engine mounts are manufactured now in India. I think their rubber is mixed with camel dung." end quote.
 
I like the style of motor mount you showed. I used a very similar "Muscle Mount" on my 340 'Cuda. If you need some additonal strength you can always fab up a piece of metal and weld it to the motor mount that would also allow you to use the mid engine truck mounts on your magnum. That would reduce the fex from having the K frame mounting point so far away from the engine attachment point.

Just a thought
 
I use to use the moroso solid mounts on my old 340 for a long time no problem with my 416 I used the shumacher polylocs and so far no problems.And as stated before Shumacher also has a torgue strap.
 
I also use solid mounts home made . shown in pic below.
 

Attachments

  • Copy of Copy of DSCF0093.jpg
    119.2 KB · Views: 764
  • a22.jpg
    148.5 KB · Views: 1,011
weld a plate across your stock mounts and be done with it. Worked for me......................Jeff
 
The reason your chain does not work is because of the angle it is installed. When the motor moves, it pivots on the pass side mount and the drivers side moves straight up. In a perfect world, the chain/strap should be mounted at 90 degrees from the ground, straight up and down.
 
Darter6 said:
I read this on another site,quote, "Most auto part store engine mounts are manufactured now in India. I think their rubber is mixed with camel dung." end quote.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I talked to the Schumacher guy at the Mopar nats about 5 yrs ago and he pretty much said the same thing. The aftermarket biscuits are sourced overseas and can be hit or miss. They aren't as good as the old USA stuff.

I'd probably go with the poly loc because it's a direct interchange and they're "fail-safe" because of the interlock. The rubber is in compression under load, not tension. (assuming the bottom stud passes through the lower plate and is welded to the lower hat section piece)
 
69MOPE said:
The reason your chain does not work is because of the angle it is installed. When the motor moves, it pivots on the pass side mount and the drivers side moves straight up. In a perfect world, the chain/strap should be mounted at 90 degrees from the ground, straight up and down.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what I was getting at,, his chain pulls sideways, like a hinge, instead of holding the engine down,, he doesn't appear to have a k-member below, to secure to..

The slop in his chain in aggravated by the angle....
 
Another thing to consider....From looking at the pictures, it appears that your header outlet is awful close to your motor mount. As we all know, rubber and extreme heat do not play well together.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top