Ugh, another broken mount. Poly-Locs?

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Wow lots of replies. Now that I've thought about it for a day I'm not so sure I we to spend roughly $175 bucks for a set of motor mounts. The car is tore apart again and if I want to make the first race next month it's money I cannot spend.

So many of you guys mentioned my current torque strap setup. I'm wondering if my problem will go away if I revise my strap. To be honest it something I threw together in 20 minutes without much thought about the design.

The mounts I've been using are the cheapie Oreilly variety,and yes they are close to the header. What I've done since those pictures were taken is wrap the headers (coated as of a couple weeks ago) and installed a little shield to help block the heat.

Let me play with a new torque strap. I don't have a k member to attach to, but I bet I can come up with something.
 
I'm a fan of Schumacher products. Have several, including their torque strap. Years ago, before they came out with the Poly-Loc, they sold what they just called the 'Magnum' mount. I got one for the driver side, just for insurance. It looks exactly like this product: http://mitymounts.com/chrysler.htm (the A66-73) It's little less $ than the Poly and probably just as good if you're interested in options.
 
Yep,, My first thought was you're not chained down properly.. Just for the heck of it, perhaps try spot welding a piece of 2x2 under/across the frame rails, directly below the head/chain, snuggly secure to that, and keep the $15 mounts, and $2.00 chain, and add a turnbuckle,, just be sure the chain stops the engine lifting beyond the endurance of the mount..

Once your sure probs solved,, do what-ever to make it look niiiice, like the rest of the car..

jmo.. betcha it works..
 
69MOPE said:
The reason your chain does not work is because of the angle it is installed. When the motor moves, it pivots on the pass side mount and the drivers side moves straight up. In a perfect world, the chain/strap should be mounted at 90 degrees from the ground, straight up and down.
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Agreed. Aim for the K-member below, not the frame rail off to the side.

TQA%20Installed%20bw.jpg
 
Do you have a sway bar?? ,.. likely not, and you prob don't need one,, but you likely know where I'm going.. fab one so you can secure to that, and be visually pleasing.. - or ??
 
inertia said:
Do you have a sway bar?? ,.. likely not, and you prob don't need one,, but you likely know where I'm going.. fab one so you can secure to that, and be visually pleasing.. - or ??
Click to expand...

Actually the plate that's attached to the frame uses the rock sway bar bolt holes. I can't run a sway bar though, the oil pan is in the way. Tomorrow after work I'll take some pics to show what I'm working with.
 
if you get a turnbuckle you can put it where you had the chain and tighten it up when you go racing.then it won't break the mount.
 
flyfish said:
IMO, i would forget all the toque straps, chains, and duct tape. Just get some solid mounts and you won't have to mess with all this other crap...and you won't break them....JMHO

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-62540/overview/make/plymouth
Click to expand...

I agree solid mounts would cure all the probs. but I never asked if it was a street car, or track only..

My limited experience with solid mounts on a street car were less than comfortable, and at times the gauges got fuzzy,,,,,, ---

- once, it miight have been me,...lol..

But he really has all he needs,.. just needs to arrange it better..

I was pulling both wheels off the ground, with biscuit mounts and chain,, before companies like Transgo, B&M, and probaibly Schumacher, were around, or available to someone on a budget..

Oh GAWD !!! - I AM old,,,,,,,,,,, ( that one was a 392 hemi, (before the 426 was made) heaviest auto engine produced then,.. 762 lbs.)
 
It's most definitely a street car, I put about 6k miles on it last year, but I also made well over 100 1/8 and 1/4 mile passes too. The fact that it's a street car makes me not really want to go the solid mount route, but the fact that I race a lot makes me want something better. That's one of the reasons I was looking at the Poly-Locs; best of both worlds. I do think I'll wind up getting them, but for now I think I'm going to try a better torque strap. I picked up some supplies earlier to make a new one.

A couple of the things I've picked up in the conversation so far is that my chain was too loose and the angle was off, so this is what I came up with. I picked up a turnbuckle to eliminate any slack, and then moved from the lower hole on the head to the top to get try to get a better angle. I'm also reusing the old mount from before that's attached to the frame via the factory sway bar mount.

photobucket-37005-1361576003307_zps8815b9e3.jpg


photobucket-50406-1361575971124_zps3e0ef1dc.jpg


photobucket-35748-1361574498046_zps13df8837.jpg




Better? It definitely looks huge, but if it'll keep my mounts together long enough for the Poly-Locs to be in the budget I'll be very happy. Maybe with a coat of flat black it'll be a little more low key.
 
Copied from another site. I hear many have done the mod with great success.

Tired of busted engine mounts....well there's an easy fix. I've been doing them this way for several years and never had a falure.
yesnod.gif


The driverside mount is the one that will seperate as the engine torques over and if there's a shroud on the radiator....then the fan will be taking it out which can be expensive and messy !
flame.gif


This mod is required only on the driverside because the passenger side biscuit gets compressed during hard acceleration....so there's no need to work it.
wink.gif


Basicly, what you'll be doing is drilling a few holes through the mount and rubber biscuit and installing grade 8 hardware. There are no torque straps or chains needed and the mount looks perfectly stock.
icon_smile_cool.gif
I use a conical head bolt along with a flat washer and nylock nut to keep everything in place. The nylock will not back off or need to be retightened once it's installed. The idea is to just snug up the bolt so that there is:

(a) no compression on the rubber biscuit
(b) protection from seperation due to engine torqueing

You'll need some hardware ;

(1) a pair of 3/8 x 21/2 in grade 8 flathead bolts
(2) a pair of 3/8in "nylock" nuts and matching flat washers
(3) a good drill and 3/8in steel bit


Ron


Here's a few pics of the D/S modified mount :
index.php

ls-1.jpg (57.42 KB, 360x270 - viewed 5210 times.)
index.php

ls-2.jpg (74.26 KB, 360x270 - viewed 5154 times.)
 
PA Dodger said:
Copied from another site. I hear many have done the mod with great success.

Tired of busted engine mounts....well there's an easy fix. I've been doing them this way for several years and never had a falure.
yesnod.gif


The driverside mount is the one that will seperate as the engine torques over and if there's a shroud on the radiator....then the fan will be taking it out which can be expensive and messy !
flame.gif


This mod is required only on the driverside because the passenger side biscuit gets compressed during hard acceleration....so there's no need to work it.
wink.gif


Basicly, what you'll be doing is drilling a few holes through the mount and rubber biscuit and installing grade 8 hardware. There are no torque straps or chains needed and the mount looks perfectly stock.
icon_smile_cool.gif
I use a conical head bolt along with a flat washer and nylock nut to keep everything in place. The nylock will not back off or need to be retightened once it's installed. The idea is to just snug up the bolt so that there is:

(a) no compression on the rubber biscuit
(b) protection from seperation due to engine torqueing

You'll need some hardware ;

(1) a pair of 3/8 x 21/2 in grade 8 flathead bolts
(2) a pair of 3/8in "nylock" nuts and matching flat washers
(3) a good drill and 3/8in steel bit


Ron


Here's a few pics of the D/S modified mount :
index.php

ls-1.jpg (57.42 KB, 360x270 - viewed 5210 times.)
index.php

ls-2.jpg (74.26 KB, 360x270 - viewed 5154 times.)
Click to expand...

nice !
 
Nice! Got lucky.My car,had .125 plate,welded across the "ice cream sandwich" section.Dirt cheap,and has worked so far.Been since 1996,survived so far.....
 
skrews said:
looks exactly the way mine is set up, haven't broke a mount in 10+ years
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I ran a turnbuckle style torque strap on a 340/4 spd Duster for years, and you couldn't even tell it was there. I had the slack adjusted out so that the chain was just taunt. Never broke a mount, but I did twist a drive shaft like a pretzel once!!

PA Dodger said:
Basically, what you'll be doing is drilling a few holes through the mount and rubber biscuit and installing grade 8 hardware. There are no torque straps or chains needed and the mount looks perfectly stock.
icon_smile_cool.gif
I use a conical head bolt along with a flat washer and nylock nut to keep everything in place. The nylock will not back off or need to be retightened once it's installed. The idea is to just snug up the bolt.
Click to expand...

I may try this as I have everything apart already. It makes sense. The rubber can't separate because the metal brackets are bolted together. Pretty slick.
 
Another possibility for those using the std A-body biscuits.

Get some flat head socket bolts in your desired thread diameter and not longer than thickness of biscuits.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=llscug

Drill holes and tap one side of the biscuit plate. Countersink the other plate so the bolt head is not protruding. Lightly bolt the two plates together, using loc-tite on threads.

Just thinking out loud.
 
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