Red Loc Tite

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inkjunkie

inkjunkie

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How long does it take to "set"? Doing battle with vibrations of the bike.......again. Headlight fell off, literally, and was hanging by the wires the other day. I ran a bolt thru the inside of the bucket. Loc Tited it to the mount on the bottom of the bucket. Want to make sure it has cured before mounting it onto the other bracket and applying torque to it...It is about 80* today if that matters....
 
I like to give it a solid 24 hours.
 
Found this "non" answer on the Loctite site, LOL

Q: How long does it take for an anaerobic adhesive to dry?
A: Anaerobic adhesives do not contain solvents, which must dry. For an anaerobic adhesive to cure, it must be in contact with active metal ions and contact with oxygen eliminated. Outside of a bonded joint, anaerobic materials will not completely cure. Inside the joint, cure rates can be controlled by changing product and primer. Heat can be used to accelerate cure rate.
 
Oh yeah that's clear as mud.
 
67Dart273 said:
Found this "non" answer on the Loctite site, LOL

Q: How long does it take for an anaerobic adhesive to dry?
A: Anaerobic adhesives do not contain solvents, which must dry. For an anaerobic adhesive to cure, it must be in contact with active metal ions and contact with oxygen eliminated. Outside of a bonded joint, anaerobic materials will not completely cure. Inside the joint, cure rates can be controlled by changing product and primer. Heat can be used to accelerate cure rate.
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
Oh yeah that's clear as mud.
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A true non answer if there ever was one. I am really getting tired of this things shaking the headlight loose. I think I have the first part that it keeps shaking loose taken care of. Very well may put a castle nut, think that is what it is called on the bolt out of the headlight. The nut has small crimps on the end of it.....

One thing I miss about riding in line 4's is how smooth they run. I think pretty much every thing on this bike has been shaken loose at least once.
 
Ok, you used red lock tite on small bolts, hopeyounever want to take it apart, use some heat if you do.

Really if you wait overnight it should be set

Good luck
 
How old is your bottle of loc-tite? It does go bad, especially if its over a few years old. The newer bottles usually have a one year expiry. (The older bottles don't have an expiry date) but I found if the bottle gets sticky or the label falls off its usually gone bad (becomes really watery and transparent) I heard the bottles breathe to keep the loc-tite from curing so when the bottle is like mentioned above then it's usually junk. I would try some of it on a spare nut and bolt and let it set overnight and see if it cures. I bought the loc-tite sticks and they seam to last a lot longer compared to the liquid and is much cleaner and easier to use (mine are about 5 years old and still are perfect)

I think the blue stuff is more then enough to keep it from coming loose IMO. Can you use a nylon lock nut instead?

Hope this helps
 
OK....are we talkin about Loctite 271 ???....high strength and high temp.
If the metals being using are of a Non Ferrous material, ie: Brass, Aluminium, Gal coated, Zinc coated and the like will cure faster.
The surfaces must be free from dirt, oil, grease, etc.
You can use Brake Cleaner to clean the mating surfaces.
 
WildCat said:
Ok, you used red lock tite on small bolts, hopeyounever want to take it apart, use some heat if you do.

Really if you wait overnight it should be set

Good luck
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Hardly call 1/2 NC a small bolt. I have NEVER had a problem getting anything apart that I have used the red stuff on. It is far from some sort of liquid steel like every one makes it out to be. I would never use it on any thing small if it had a phillips or slotted head on it, but everything on the bike is torx,allen or a hex head.....

Hemiorangeswinger said:
How old is your bottle of loc-tite? It does go bad, especially if its over a few years old. The newer bottles usually have a one year expiry. (The older bottles don't have an expiry date) but I found if the bottle gets sticky or the label falls off its usually gone bad (becomes really watery and transparent) I heard the bottles breathe to keep the loc-tite from curing so when the bottle is like mentioned above then it's usually junk. I would try some of it on a spare nut and bolt and let it set overnight and see if it cures. I bought the loc-tite sticks and they seam to last a lot longer compared to the liquid and is much cleaner and easier to use (mine are about 5 years old and still are perfect)

I think the blue stuff is more then enough to keep it from coming loose IMO. Can you use a nylon lock nut instead?

Hope this helps
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It is about 6 weeks old or so. I have used the blue on this thing in the past and it manages to shake everything loose that I used it on. Every fastener that I put it on gets cleaned with a wire brush/brake clean.

cjh said:
OK....are we talkin about Loctite 271 ???....high strength and high temp.
If the metals being using are of a Non Ferrous material, ie: Brass, Aluminium, Gal coated, Zinc coated and the like will cure faster.
The surfaces must be free from dirt, oil, grease, etc.
You can use Brake Cleaner to clean the mating surfaces.
Click to expand...

Yep 271.

Like I said earlier, I really do not get why folks think this stuff is like liquid steel of some sorts.....
 
How about using a nylock nut Doug? They have a nylon insert that prevents backing off. You can even use it in combination with loctite.
 

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Red is pretty serious...I kept 5 racing bikes MX together with blue....you don't need heat to take off blue..
 
ramcharger said:
How about using a nylock nut Doug? They have a nylon insert that prevents backing off. You can even use it in combination with loctite.
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Kind of funny how this got twisted around, perhaps there is some comprehension issues here. I was just asking how long does it take to cure. I used the red stuff to the bolt that is coming out of the bottom of the headlight, that I do not want to move. I will be using a stovers nut

View attachment stovers nut.jpg

to keep it from shaking off. But just in case it does I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bolt so that I could put a cotter pin thru it. Buddy used to use these on all of his off road trucks that he built. No lock washer or lock tite necessary......I will take a picture of the headlight bucket later on....
 
Perhaps a bit of clarification is in order on my part. I will take the camera outside today to take a picture of what I am talking about. And I really do not understand all the comments about the red stuff being so aggressive. I do not cover the bolt with it, just a drop. I used it on the handlebar switch covers. Would not say that the fasteners fell right out, but I did not need to apply heat, nor did any of them strip, and they were small, #8 & #10's nc screws. The bike has a 110" solid mount v-twin. Vibration is it's name. When I first got the bike it was not assembled with any Loc Tite. After the mirrors fell off I went back to the shop built it and had a rather one sided heated discussion. I stood there and watched him use the blue stuff on everything....and a few days later I lost another mirror. A day after that I was 100 miles form home when the screws that hold the wires to the coils backed out (they had the blue stuff on them as well). The blue stuff just does not provide enough grip for the amount of vibration this thing generates. But hell, I have only been chasing this problem for 7500 miles so perhaps I do not know what I am talking about....
 
grassy said:
Forget the bike...how are your kidneys ? :)
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I am peeing a bit more than before I started riding it :D Can't help but wonder if the two are related. I am waiting to get pulled over for all the swerving I do. Francis, one of two ways to town is a mess. It is under construction, luckily a neighbor showed me a way around it. But the rest of it is full of pot holes......and man hole covers. While the bike is a soft tail it rides VERY stiff so I do my best to avoid the lids and holes.....By any chance you would not happen to have a kidney belt that would fit a fat guy would you?
 
The light bucket had a funky little spacer and a bolt that went thru the bottom. Once the bolt worked loose pretty obvious the headlight came off its mount.
Here is where my question about the loc tite applies......

View attachment IMG_3890 (Medium).jpg

I tapped the 1/4 moon shaped part from the metric thread it was to 1/2" NC. I then put lock tite on the threads of the bolt that were going to engage on the recently threaded part.

View attachment IMG_3892 (Medium).jpg

Being that the funky spacer is now long gone I just used a 5/8" nut as it was the tightest fit into the channel. Until I go for a ride and see how the head light aim is I just used a regular nut and lock washer. Once I get a chance to check the aim of the light I will be replacing the nut and lock washer with a stovers nut. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of the bolt, just in case it does loosen up the nut will not come all the way off, so at least the head light will not try to remove itself form the bike......I also had to rewire the headlamp as when it was hanging by the wires it stretched them out pretty far....
 
Maybe drilling through the side of the nut and tapping for a 10-32 set screw would help? I would go this route after I tried the nylon locking nut.
 
Well Doug, looks like you nipped that in the bud, nut can't go anywhere now. You could always do the saftey wire thing too, mandatory on race bikes.
 
ramcharger said:
Well Doug, looks like you nipped that in the bud, nut can't go anywhere now. You could always do the saftey wire thing too, mandatory on race bikes.
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Have a neighbor that is a retired FAA mechanic and Safety Inspector that is going to teach me how to safety wire some time, perhaps there would be no better time than the present?
 
inkjunkie said:
Have a neighbor that is a retired FAA mechanic and Safety Inspector that is going to teach me how to safety wire some time, perhaps there would be no better time than the present?
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Perfect! When I worked at the dealership we used to have budding AMA roadracers come in every spring for a tune/oil change and saftey wire so they'd pass inspection.
 
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