A833 rattles with new clutch and throw out

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4spdDuster340

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I have a 73 duster 340 with a 4spd. when stopped there is a rattle from the clutch area. Doesn't matter if clutch is in or out or if trans is in gear or not. When coming to a stop, it rattles quite loud as input shaft slows down but never completely stops rattling. Rattle can be heard in between gear shifts as well. Has also developed a slight vibration at 2000 rpms I just replaced the clutch and release bearing last week and it seemed fine. Clutch is adjusted with 1" play. I have only driven the car maybe 50 miles when this started happening. This is my first Mopar with a manual trans so I'm not as savoy as I would like to be. If someone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
 
I have a 73 duster 340 with a 4spd. when stopped there is a rattle from the clutch area. Doesn't matter if clutch is in or out or if trans is in gear or not. When coming to a stop, it rattles quite loud as input shaft slows down but never completely stops rattling. Rattle can be heard in between gear shifts as well. Has also developed a slight vibration at 2000 rpms I just replaced the clutch and release bearing last week and it seemed fine. Clutch is adjusted with 1" play. I have only driven the car maybe 50 miles when this started happening. This is my first Mopar with a manual trans so I'm not as savoy as I would like to be. If someone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
If your throwout is good, I would check your pilot bushing.
 
The pilot bushing in the crank shaft :thumbup: maybe the trans is not tight :-k could be :coffee2:
 
I'll bet it's the input bearing is gone in the trans.
Looks like time for a rebuild.......
 
The pilot bushing in the crank shaft :thumbup: maybe the trans is not tight :-k could be :coffee2:

Yeah, but.....I had one go on my 340 and the rattle transmitted right through the shaft into the bell housing. Took me a while to find and fix it.
 
A bad pilot bushing will take out the input bearing, don't fix one without checking the other.
 
Keep in mind that if the noise is there with the clutch engaged and the trans in neutral it isn't the pilot bushing/bearing.
 
Keep in mind that if the noise is there with the clutch engaged and the trans in neutral it isn't the pilot bushing/bearing.

I would not assume that

Let's think about this for second.

The only time the pilot bushing/bearing is used is when the clutch is engaged. When the clutch is out, the input shaft is spinning at the same speed as the flywheel. Not only that, but the input shaft is being is being held in place by the splines of the clutch disk, so the pilot bushing shouldn't be causing any issues. I wouldn't say it can't cause any problems, you never know. But when the clutch is out the clutch plate is being held in place by the pressure plate and the whole smash turns at the same time.

So, if its making the SAME noise with the clutch in or out, the chances of it being the pilot bushing are pretty minimal.

I'd put my money on something hitting the inspection plate or dust cover, or maybe even the starter gear contacting the flywheel. The starter often requires shimming to get the gear to clear the flywheel. Did you use the correct flywheel and pressure plate bolts? Are they still torqued to spec?
 
If the bushing is off center somehow, or not there, the input shaft will be vibrating whether the clutch is engaged or not.
 
If the bushing is off center somehow, or not there, the input shaft will be vibrating whether the clutch is engaged or not.

Um, if your clutch disk doesn't hold the input shaft tight enough to keep it from wobbling when the clutch is out, you officially have the worlds crappiest clutch disk. The disk won't move AT ALL then the clutch is disengaged, so the only slop would be from the splines on the input shaft. And that should be just about negligible.

Now, if it were mis-aligned that would be a problem all the time. I would still bet money that it would sound different with the clutch engaged vs disengaged though, because the input shaft would not be spinning in the pilot bearing with the clutch disengaged.

But in the OP's case, he just changed his clutch, not his bell housing, if I'm reading his description right. If that's the case, alignment shouldn't be an issue unless he also removed the bell housing.
 
I did yes.
When I replaced the clutch and throw out I didn't remove the bell housing and I didn't check the pilot bushing even though I knew better. It was worn out and also wrecked the input shaft bearing. New bearing and bushing and now all is quiet. Well as quiet as a 500 hp 340 can be anyway !!!
 
I have one that rattles a little bit in neutral with the clutch out. I'm guessing input bearing. It goes away as soon as the petal is pushed in. tmm
 
This post is accurate in my opinion.

Once the input bushing is out of alignment or has offset due to failure or massive wear, it allows the clutch to be engaged in an offset relative to center of crank. This creates vibration relative to RPM w/o the car being in gear. Although there is considerably more vibration and rattle when disengaged (clutch petal in) due to wallow offset rattle.

When I was young I put a 4 sp in a 318 with no pilot bushing (yeap dumb). It displayed the above symptoms.

If the bushing is off center somehow, or not there, the input shaft will be vibrating whether the clutch is engaged or not.
 
I have one that rattles a little bit in neutral with the clutch out. I'm guessing input bearing. It goes away as soon as the petal is pushed in. tmm

I would have to agree to a point, but it could be countershaft bearings.
The counter shaft spins in neutral with the clutch out, but the input shaft bearing is more common since the countershaft needle bearings are submerged in oil.
 
I have one that rattles a little bit in neutral with the clutch out. I'm guessing input bearing. It goes away as soon as the petal is pushed in. tmm

That sounds more like a throw out bearing.
 
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