Hotchkis 76 Dart Build

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Step 4: Alternator Bracket Design

One of trickiest parts about swapping an engine from one vehicle into another is getting all of the engine accessories to clear all of the sheet metal of the new vehicle's engine bay. After we swapped the modern 392 HEMI into our Project '76 Dart, we found that the factory alternator was just too big to fit without some serious modification to the car. Luckily, there was a better option than modifying the car to fit the alternator - finding an alternator to fit the car! The reason we could do this is because the factory alternator that came with the engine was designed to put out a lot of amperage to be able to support a modern vehicle's massive electronic system. Because this was going into a race car with minimal electronics we could utilize a smaller alternator that generated less amps, but we had to design an all new mounting bracket for it.

After selecting the new alternator, we set out looking at the available mounting holes in the block to determine the design of the new bracket. We needed to be able to move the alternator up to clear the chassis and forward to bring the pulley into alignment. Once we measured the location of the mounting holes we were able to make our initial design of the bracket out of cardboard to verify clearance and make the final adjustments to the design.

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The next step in the process was to create a temporary metal bracket that we would use to really fine tune the alternator's position to ensure proper belt alignment before we fabricate the final version of the bracket.

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See more images of the alternator bracket design here: [ame="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157640291514085/"]Project 76 Dart - Alternator Bracket - a set on Flickr[/ame]

Step Five: Transmission Tunnel

The design requirement of the transmission tunnel on Project '76 Dart was much different than what most people are used to seeing. Because of the types of racing that Kevin will be doing, he asked that the front half of the tunnel be removable so that the transmission can be serviced and removed through the tunnel itself - much like in professional rally cars.

The first step of the process was to create the frame of the transmission tunnel. This framework was also tied into the safety cage through the supports rails for the racing buckets.

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The next step was to construct the transmission tunnel support hoops which included both a removable hoop over the transmission as well as an integrated drive shaft safety hoop just aft of the front driveshaft yoke.

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Now that all of the support hoops were in place, we were able to move forward with fabricating the skin of the tunnel itself. The permanent rear section of the tunnel was the first to be completed. After creating patterns to match the contour of the floor pan, we sketched out the locations for the tack welds onto the finished piece and secured it into place.

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Next it was on to the first removable section which covers most of the transmission. The sheet metal was bent into shape and structural tack weld points were identified before the new piece was secured onto the front and rear brackets.

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Here is the view down the mostly complete transmission tunnel. More updates to come soon.

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For more pictures of the transmission tunnel fabrication click here: [ame="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157642564086195/"]Project 76 Dart - Transmission Tunnel - a set on Flickr[/ame]
 
To head off some alternator comments...

1) Yes, you could use a stock 6.4 alternator and chop into the frame rail.

2) I didn't want to have to buy an almost $400 alternator (stock 6.4)

3) I don't need an alternator that kicks out 220 amps (stock 6.4)

4) The 5.7 alternator for VVT engines is still about $250 and is 160 amp, but the VVT's seem to not be readily available at regular parts stores.

I wanted to be able to go to any parts store, pick up a standard 5.7 Hemi alternator and be on my way. I don't want to be stuck somewhere without a simple option for replacement.
 
Wow. Just wow. :thumbup:

I want to see a "how to" on this. :D I'd do that mod in a second if I had a better idea how to proceed on the controller side of things. I already have the 16:1 borgeson box, and already added a telescoping borgeson steering shaft and coupler for the box.

This I want to see. While the 275/35/18's I have up front aren't as difficult to deal with as I thought they'd be with the 16:1 box, that little goody would make things down right butter.

How much "boost" does that unit provide? Would 8:1 (borgeson 16:1 and 2:1 quickner) be easier or comparable to the 16:1 by itself? Or maybe 12:1 with a 1.5:1 quickner?

Could you add the motor on the other side of the firewall? Keep the Mopar column in the car and just section the motor into the original steering shaft?

Not sure on how much, but the controller allows you to dial in the amount of adjustment. Since it's designed for a soccer mom SUV, you probably will want less than originally intended anyway.

I don't think you would have the room on the engine side in an A Body. It would depend on how it was mounted, plus master cylinder and brake line clearance most likely.

Unisteer has a complete column with integrated unit available now, but it's around $1,500. They have details on their site on how to integrate the unit into a standard column I believe as well. Flaming River was selling a kit at one time also, but that was like $3,500. Both of them look like they use the same GM parts.
 
Thank you for sharing this build with us. I'm getting all sorts of things to think about. All the good pictures are great and the write up is too. Even if I can't afford to build something so elaborate it gives me ideas.

That's what I love about FABO.

Cool project for sure.
 
My take on all this.. NASCAR. It's not really a 76 Dodge. Just looks a bit like one on the outside.
 
My take on all this.. NASCAR. It's not really a 76 Dodge. Just looks a bit like one on the outside.

Yeah...I have to agree here.

I'm not saying that what they're building isn't a total masterpiece...it's astounding... but why start with such a nice car when so little of the original car will be retained? :(

Are they going to retain the looks of the car at all?
 
Thanks for sharing the build and I look forward to seeing more. Without a doubt I have missed (not understood) the "why" in some things but I have only given it about 15 minutes thought. That probably puts me a few years behind all of you.
Hope to see you at Targa.
 
Yeah...I have to agree here.

I'm not saying that what they're building isn't a total masterpiece...it's astounding... but why start with such a nice car when so little of the original car will be retained? :(

Are they going to retain the looks of the car at all?

It's a '76. Regardless of its good condition, it wasn't worth anything. By far the least sought after and valued year out there.

Here in California, I wouldn't touch a '76 with a 10 ft pole. The '76 model year has to be smogged here in Cali, so you pretty much have to keep the engine stock. '75 model you can drop in a 440 and suck down 8 mpg and give the :finga: to the EPA, '76 you're stuck with a /6 that has to pass smog.

Regardless, just about anything that you do to a '76 raises the value. Believe me, even with a '74 Duster I know. The value drops substantially at '73.
 
My take on all this.. NASCAR. It's not really a 76 Dodge. Just looks a bit like one on the outside.

I disagree. Its nothing like nascar, which is a 100% fabricated race specific car, with nothing in common with the street version. This car has some nice fabrication and metal work, BUT its using torsion bar suspension and rear leaf spring suspension. It still a 76 dodge with safety and strength upgrades. Its a lot more of a dodge than some guys on here build, with aftermarket front and rear suspensions, gm transmissions ect.....
 
Yeah...I have to agree here.

I'm not saying that what they're building isn't a total masterpiece...it's astounding... but why start with such a nice car when so little of the original car will be retained? :(

Are they going to retain the looks of the car at all?

I started with a nice car because so much of the original car will be retained. The car is all steel and will continue to be all steel for the foreseeable future. All the trim is going back on the car, including the turn signals on the fenders.

To me, starting with a goofy year slant 6 car is about the best place to start. Not collectible, cheap and dry climate cars are good platforms that don't need a bunch of metal work just to make them road worthy. The car will not get fender flares, or a crazy tail panel. It will remain a '76 Dart Lite. I don't see the point of starting with some rusty POS just to put on new panels and weld in frame repairs. Just start with a decent car and be done with it.

Yes, the interior is cut up to fit the cage and fuel cell. That's the rules and there's nothing I can do to change them. Plus, I don't want to die just to keep an interior in the car.

The intention of this car is to be raced, not waxed and put in a garage.

Tarmac Rally cars do things like this...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O96eBpUHJk"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O96eBpUHJk[/ame]

and I want to survive Pikes Peak if this happens...

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I just thought it would be more fun to do these events in a Mopar.
 
The car is all steel and will continue to be all steel for the foreseeable future... It will remain a '76 Dart Lite.

I get what your saying, I love this build, and I'm all for it. Why not?

But... your Dart Lite ain't all steel... ;) LOL

I do believe if you were going to do a 'undesireable' that this would be the car to do. A good lookin' body and a factory 'lightweight' package!
 
I started with a nice car because so much of the original car will be retained. The car is all steel and will continue to be all steel for the foreseeable future. All the trim is going back on the car, including the turn signals on the fenders.

To me, starting with a goofy year slant 6 car is about the best place to start. Not collectible, cheap and dry climate cars are good platforms that don't need a bunch of metal work just to make them road worthy. The car will not get fender flares, or a crazy tail panel. It will remain a '76 Dart Lite. I don't see the point of starting with some rusty POS just to put on new panels and weld in frame repairs. Just start with a decent car and be done with it.

Yes, the interior is cut up to fit the cage and fuel cell. That's the rules and there's nothing I can do to change them. Plus, I don't want to die just to keep an interior in the car.

The intention of this car is to be raced, not waxed and put in a garage.

Tarmac Rally cars do things like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O96eBpUHJk

and I want to survive Pikes Peak if this happens...
...

Well... some of us might not be too happy with the "goofy year slant 6" comment...but I see your point. It's not the most rare/collectable/sought after incarnation of the A-Body but some of us would still just about just about kill for a clean /6 Dart Sport like that in the garage. :D

Hearing that the body/trim will be retained really made my day. It looked like you guys were going down a road of pretty wild alterations...but hearing that this will still at least look like a '76 Sport makes me so much more excited to follow the progress.

And yes... I think everyone can agree that we're glad you have the safety gear.
 
But... your Dart Lite ain't all steel... ;) LOL

True, but close enough... If I need the weight savings I will move to some fiberglass, but for the time I am happy with the hood and trunk weight.

I would prefer to stick with the steel bumpers just to offer some crash protection. For Pro-Touring events I might switch them out to save some weight if I need it to stay under 3,000 lbs (class break at Ultimate Streetcar events).
 
I hope you don't ruin the metal work by putting paint on it. lol That is freaking awesome! Thanks for taking me to chassisbuild land. It's worth the price of admission.

:blob::blob:
 
Great thread. Time is money. ( not many people,have the skills for this....) Fabrication skills,obviously. Interested,will be checking up.
 
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