Hotchkis 76 Dart Build
- Thread starter DTMRacing
- Start date
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zhandfull
Well-Known Member
Looking forward to the update.
Racing Pedal Assembly
We installed a Tilton Firewall Mount Pedal Assembly to take care of the brake and clutch pedals in the Dart. The Tilton unit is super robust and up to the task of the races that the owner of this car has planned. The pedal assembly has built in master cylinders for the clutch as well as separate ones for front and rear brakes, allowing us to precisely dial in brake bias.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646442451386/
Steering Column
We wanted to have a car that was easy to steer while driving around the pits, on and off of the trailer, and on a tight autocross track but could also have completely manual steering for higher-speed tracks. So we installed a Unisteer Electronic Power Steering system onto an Iditit tilt-wheel column along with a 2:1 steering quickener. We fabricated both the mount for the column on the dash bar as well as the mount for the quickener itself.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646085990379/
Fluid Reservoirs
Next, we fabricated a mounting bracket for the three Roush fluid reservoirs (Brake, Power Steering, and Clutch) on the engine bay bars.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646483745611/
Bumpers
For the car's bumpers, we needed something that was going to be lighter than the factory steel bumpers but just as strong. We fabricated a tubular bumper out of 1.25-inch (.083-inch wall) tubing and made it mount to the factory bumper mounts. Then we created a fiberglass bumper from the factory unit and riveted the fiberglass piece to the tubular bumper underneath. We did this for both the front and rear bumpers (though we are only showing the front here).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646084847510/
Interior
We also started work on the interior paneling and accessories. We created the template for the aluminum panels using paper and cardboard. After creating the templates we then transferred them to the aluminum sheet metal and carefully cut out the pieces before tacking them into place inside the car. We also added two battery boxes to the drive shaft tunnel behind the rear seat. The two batteries will eventually be connected through a BUS switch allowing the driver to switch batteries mid-race should one of the primary one go bad. Finally, we added a hydraulic hand brake lever so that the owner can quickly rotate the car on tight rally stages.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646085843329/
We installed a Tilton Firewall Mount Pedal Assembly to take care of the brake and clutch pedals in the Dart. The Tilton unit is super robust and up to the task of the races that the owner of this car has planned. The pedal assembly has built in master cylinders for the clutch as well as separate ones for front and rear brakes, allowing us to precisely dial in brake bias.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646442451386/
Steering Column
We wanted to have a car that was easy to steer while driving around the pits, on and off of the trailer, and on a tight autocross track but could also have completely manual steering for higher-speed tracks. So we installed a Unisteer Electronic Power Steering system onto an Iditit tilt-wheel column along with a 2:1 steering quickener. We fabricated both the mount for the column on the dash bar as well as the mount for the quickener itself.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646085990379/
Fluid Reservoirs
Next, we fabricated a mounting bracket for the three Roush fluid reservoirs (Brake, Power Steering, and Clutch) on the engine bay bars.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646483745611/
Bumpers
For the car's bumpers, we needed something that was going to be lighter than the factory steel bumpers but just as strong. We fabricated a tubular bumper out of 1.25-inch (.083-inch wall) tubing and made it mount to the factory bumper mounts. Then we created a fiberglass bumper from the factory unit and riveted the fiberglass piece to the tubular bumper underneath. We did this for both the front and rear bumpers (though we are only showing the front here).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646084847510/
Interior
We also started work on the interior paneling and accessories. We created the template for the aluminum panels using paper and cardboard. After creating the templates we then transferred them to the aluminum sheet metal and carefully cut out the pieces before tacking them into place inside the car. We also added two battery boxes to the drive shaft tunnel behind the rear seat. The two batteries will eventually be connected through a BUS switch allowing the driver to switch batteries mid-race should one of the primary one go bad. Finally, we added a hydraulic hand brake lever so that the owner can quickly rotate the car on tight rally stages.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646085843329/
mrhollywood
Well-Known Member
:burnout:I'm planning on putting in a hydraulic handbrake in my car to do a little drifting.
Jo Diesel
My other car is a Dodge
Does it work on the existing caliper or do you mount a separate caliper for hand brake
consulier
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2009
- Messages
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Works with existing caliper (not much drifting planned) and works as a parking brake as well.
That little silver lever that hangs below the handle sits in those slots to wedge it up as a parking brake.
adiffrentcity
Bent Rodder
Drool. So much drool. Thanks for the update, looking forward to more.
Cheapstreetduster
been here a long time
its been a while....any updates?
nasty69
junior member
Very impressive build! Subscribed!!
ralphie361
Well-Known Member
Beautiful work, this car will be kick *** when done! Subscribed!
Hemioutlaw
Make America Great Again!
Fascinating read for those of us that have not the resources or aptitude for such an undertaking. I'm sure those that can play in this arena will gain ideas or possibly question some of the methodology used, personally I'm just enjoying the behind the scenes access.
From my prospective.......
If I lived within 100 miles of this build....you would have to kick me out of the garage every night.
I love hot rods....especially Mopar A-body hot rods!
If I lived within 100 miles of this build....you would have to kick me out of the garage every night.
I love hot rods....especially Mopar A-body hot rods!
consulier
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2009
- Messages
- 48
- Reaction score
- 7
More details...
They cut down the interior door handle to clear the cage and then I sent down some Dart Glove Box Lanyards (A12 Hood Pin Lanyards) to use for the pull.
Hotwire Harness that was sectioned and bulk heads added. This will all be wrapped once the layout is finalized.
Brake Bias Adjuster and mount...
Front leaf spring hanger support...
They cut down the interior door handle to clear the cage and then I sent down some Dart Glove Box Lanyards (A12 Hood Pin Lanyards) to use for the pull.
Hotwire Harness that was sectioned and bulk heads added. This will all be wrapped once the layout is finalized.
Brake Bias Adjuster and mount...
Front leaf spring hanger support...
383Duster
Well-Known Member
Very nice to see this done to any Mopar and not another 69 Camaro
Karl M
Life long Mopar lover
DTMRacing, you guys are really in Yuma? Great build and fab work.
Although I've dumped my A body project to work on my primary project (very high optioned 69 Sport Satellite, and yes I'm on the FBBO too) still good info here for my (or any) restomod.
There is a fellow here in Tucson that has a beautiful 72 Cuda with a stroker 6.1L Gen 3 and a Tremec. He's given me some good info. He does track time out in Wilcox AZ with it.
I'm currently working on putting a 5.7L Gen 3 into the Satellite. Final plan is the all aluminum 7L crate engine from Mopar Performance. And I see a few things that someone doing this is going to have to deal with regardless of body. Namely, the bellhousing and engine controller.
Let's start with the bellhousing/clutch/trans. Although you've opted for a completely different trans, you might have some input of value. I'm going with an A833 for now and plan on moving to a Passon 5 speed at some point. Planning on a Quicktime scatter shield (had a clutch come apart once in my 70 Chally, and once was enough). I've had a few folks tell me that the Quicktime and the A833 is a bolt on to the Gen 3 engines. The guy with the Cuda above said Mc Leod flywheel. But Quicktime doesn't list a Gen 3 specific bellhousing for use with an A833. By chance have you heard of any issues with this match up using the regular LA bellhousing from Quicktime (which is what I've been told is the combination that I'll need)?
Second is something that I've really been thinking through, what am I going to need to get the wires from the controller through the firewall to the engine? What connectors are those? Looks like ITT mil spec Cannon plugs. Who was your supplier for those? My concern is water. Building my car to drive and yeah, it might get wet sometime. I have had more than a few references to Hotwire Auto. But still not exactly sure which way I'm going with that. There are some advantages to using a modified factory Mopar controller and there are some for using aftermarket controllers. The main advantage for the aftermarket is that I can tune them myself. And the Hotwire solution doesn't allow for that. So what made you select the Hotwire modified controller?
Karl M.
Although I've dumped my A body project to work on my primary project (very high optioned 69 Sport Satellite, and yes I'm on the FBBO too) still good info here for my (or any) restomod.
There is a fellow here in Tucson that has a beautiful 72 Cuda with a stroker 6.1L Gen 3 and a Tremec. He's given me some good info. He does track time out in Wilcox AZ with it.
I'm currently working on putting a 5.7L Gen 3 into the Satellite. Final plan is the all aluminum 7L crate engine from Mopar Performance. And I see a few things that someone doing this is going to have to deal with regardless of body. Namely, the bellhousing and engine controller.
Let's start with the bellhousing/clutch/trans. Although you've opted for a completely different trans, you might have some input of value. I'm going with an A833 for now and plan on moving to a Passon 5 speed at some point. Planning on a Quicktime scatter shield (had a clutch come apart once in my 70 Chally, and once was enough). I've had a few folks tell me that the Quicktime and the A833 is a bolt on to the Gen 3 engines. The guy with the Cuda above said Mc Leod flywheel. But Quicktime doesn't list a Gen 3 specific bellhousing for use with an A833. By chance have you heard of any issues with this match up using the regular LA bellhousing from Quicktime (which is what I've been told is the combination that I'll need)?
Second is something that I've really been thinking through, what am I going to need to get the wires from the controller through the firewall to the engine? What connectors are those? Looks like ITT mil spec Cannon plugs. Who was your supplier for those? My concern is water. Building my car to drive and yeah, it might get wet sometime. I have had more than a few references to Hotwire Auto. But still not exactly sure which way I'm going with that. There are some advantages to using a modified factory Mopar controller and there are some for using aftermarket controllers. The main advantage for the aftermarket is that I can tune them myself. And the Hotwire solution doesn't allow for that. So what made you select the Hotwire modified controller?
Karl M.
consulier
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2009
- Messages
- 48
- Reaction score
- 7
Haven't looked, but it should be the standard LA bell with the Gen 3 flywheel.
The Hotwire harness comes with a grommet. Really all you have to do is drill the appropriate size hole and feed the connector through. I had them section the harness to make it easier to swap engines and as a place to bulkhead the rest of the wiring harness.
If you go with a non-VVT engine, you have more aftermarket options. I went with the 6.4 and that needs VVT support, so I went with factory controller. They can be programmed using a Diablo/Trinity Tuner. I have no desire to mess with the tuning myself and if I make changes, I'll take it to the dyno to get tuned.
buckshotbishop
Old Soul
I see you didn't go with the vue epas and ebay controler. any reason for that?
im looking into the electric power steering for my car as well and might hit you up for info in the future.
im looking into the electric power steering for my car as well and might hit you up for info in the future.
consulier
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2009
- Messages
- 48
- Reaction score
- 7
Long story... but essentially when you are not doing it yourself, sometimes it's cheaper to just buy one than to make pieces work. That Unisteer kit was on sale at Summit for $1k, so I gave it a shot. The packaging and space trying to put the quickener under the dash didn't help.
I still have all the other pieces I intended to use and will end up using them on something else in the future. Most likely without a quickener thrown in the mix.
Karl M
Life long Mopar lover
So, did those connectors come with the harness from Hotwire? Or were they something that you acquired separately? I will probably section the harness for fitment. But I like the idea of a detachable engine harness, so that if I change the configuration of the engine, I can just build a new engine harness without having to go all the way back to the controller. And also the ability to just disconnect the harness from the firewall rather than remove every single wire from the engine if an engine removal is necessary.
I haven't decided how much of the factory harness I'll use and how much will be custom built. I plan on keeping the interior mostly stock and using a stock (mostly) instrument cluster. But may make some mods. And there are some of those mil spec connectors that are weather proof and spec'd for harsh environments.
Karl M.
I haven't decided how much of the factory harness I'll use and how much will be custom built. I plan on keeping the interior mostly stock and using a stock (mostly) instrument cluster. But may make some mods. And there are some of those mil spec connectors that are weather proof and spec'd for harsh environments.
Karl M.
correct me if i am wrong but they look like standard aircraft cannon plugs
I've always thought they would be perfect for race cars, then i noticed that high end race teams use them
they are just a little expensive and the tools to build them properly are not cheap either from Daniel's co.
I've always thought they would be perfect for race cars, then i noticed that high end race teams use them
they are just a little expensive and the tools to build them properly are not cheap either from Daniel's co.
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