carrmann
Well-Known Member
right? where could I get this mythical gas lol
340 slight dieseling when hot and hard start
- Thread starter carrmann
- Start date
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right? where could I get this mythical gas lol
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There are two joints in my small town that sell non corrupted fuel
There's at least a couple of websites that can locate who / where
http://pure-gas.org/about
http://www.buyrealgas.com/
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Nice-thanks Del...I know now why I never saw real gas when I lived in Abilene (after the switch)...the nearest one according to the first link was over 60 miles away. There are a couple here near me on O'ahu though...but all they show is 89
txstang84
Well-Known Member
No worries, Red--I just never saw it anymore after the whole ethanol craze started. Everywhere I stopped to get gas in Texas all had those pesky stickers on the pump...
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Some people claim that ethanol should not boil as easily as pure gas, but this does not seem to be true. I'm not a chemist nor to I play one on TV so all I know is my experience
I DISAGREE in this case with Rusty. In FL, the wx down there is hot enough that I'd plug the crossover in an INSTANT. Also, if the engine tends to "run hotter" that is a factor
My 67-------the hot start was all fuel, not ignition. The 'fixes' I mentioned helped on all but the hottest days, and it normally isn't all that hot up here, although we get lots of summers nudging into the eighties and nineties, and nudging 100 a few times.
I run a 4 terminal HEI, Mopar dist, and stock coil with no ballast. "Instant" fireup on all but the hottest days, and might crank 3-5 seconds at most
'Course right now, it's nude in the neighbor's garage. I'm 'specially getting depressed as "the 4th" is coming, and it was sposed ta be painted long before now............
I DISAGREE in this case with Rusty. In FL, the wx down there is hot enough that I'd plug the crossover in an INSTANT. Also, if the engine tends to "run hotter" that is a factor
My 67-------the hot start was all fuel, not ignition. The 'fixes' I mentioned helped on all but the hottest days, and it normally isn't all that hot up here, although we get lots of summers nudging into the eighties and nineties, and nudging 100 a few times.
I run a 4 terminal HEI, Mopar dist, and stock coil with no ballast. "Instant" fireup on all but the hottest days, and might crank 3-5 seconds at most
'Course right now, it's nude in the neighbor's garage. I'm 'specially getting depressed as "the 4th" is coming, and it was sposed ta be painted long before now............
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
Living in FL I've tuned my car to run good on ethanol gas.
Keep fuel tank full, gasohol absorbs moisture.
Run a wire mesh fuel filter (fuel injection type), paper filter glue breaks down.
Use fiber base gasket 1/4" or thicker. Block off exhaust crossover. 180* thermostat.
If you have a thermoquad use it. the composite fuel bowl helps prevent fuel boiling.
Insulate fuel line as much as possible.
Run an HEI ignition to eliminate ballast resistor. You get better spark while cranking and at idle. Set magnetic pickup to .008 gap
Recurve the dizzy for max initial timing. my initial is 20* with 34* total mechanical 50* vac advance. higher initial allows instant hot starts.
You can buy real gas at a few stations in FL that cater to marine fuel sales.
Keep fuel tank full, gasohol absorbs moisture.
Run a wire mesh fuel filter (fuel injection type), paper filter glue breaks down.
Use fiber base gasket 1/4" or thicker. Block off exhaust crossover. 180* thermostat.
If you have a thermoquad use it. the composite fuel bowl helps prevent fuel boiling.
Insulate fuel line as much as possible.
Run an HEI ignition to eliminate ballast resistor. You get better spark while cranking and at idle. Set magnetic pickup to .008 gap
Recurve the dizzy for max initial timing. my initial is 20* with 34* total mechanical 50* vac advance. higher initial allows instant hot starts.
You can buy real gas at a few stations in FL that cater to marine fuel sales.
carrmann
Well-Known Member
I do have a thermoquad, but its in NH and needs a rebuild lol. I'll be putting on edelbrock rpm air gap on it, that should make it a little cooler right?
I need to find out what thermostat it has, and will be insulating my fuel line when I work on it.
I need to find out what thermostat it has, and will be insulating my fuel line when I work on it.
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
The airgap will block off exhaust crossover. You still need to run a fiber base gasket. Thermoquad is spreadbore airgap is square so that won't work without modifying the airgap.
moper
Well-Known Member
lol you're right. The funny part is I had that and edited it to CW...lol. Sorry about that!
I agree - if you;re in FL - block the crossover and still tune it properly. I run with 10% ethanol all year in CT. I believe it's illegal for the stores to carry it for street use now. It used to be from Nov 1 to Feb 1 only but most of the pumps now don't mention any date. It vertainly smells and behaves like it's a mix all year.
Heat wrap on the fuel line will insulate the fuel line, not the carburetor. If the problem is boiling fuel in the carburetor, the carburetor is what needs to be insulated. You NEED the thick gasket and a heat shield under the carburetor.
Insulator gasket: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9266
I would use that gasket and make a heat shield. Mr Gasket makes a heat shield/gasket combo but it does not have that real thick insulator gasket in it. Why, I don't know. A heat shield would be easy to make. All you would need is a thin gasket to seal it. I would put the thick insulator gasket against the intake, then heat shield, then thin gasket, then carburetor. Almost ALL of the factory cars used a form of that thick gasket. IMO, you're engine is incomplete without it, so until you have it, you're like a one legged man in a butt kickin contest trying to diagnose it, because a crucial part is missing.
Carter and Edelbrock style carburetors have a ONE PIECE cast bottom. The throttle body is MADE ONTO the carburetor's float bowl, so any heat from the manifold is transferred directly to the carburetor body and right into the fuel. Go ahead and wrap the fuel line if you want, but until you fix the problem at the source, I believe you're pissin in a fan. No offense.
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