floor pans

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Tadams

Tadams

Tadams
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
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Do you have to remove the motor and transmission to replace the pans. I have a neighbor who builds dragsters stopped by today and said I would. I've never done this before, but can't see why you would. Not quite ready to do that just yet, but getting closer.
 
You will have to remove the interior for the welding. I also added Us Car Tools frame connectors to stiffen up the frame at the same time. Can leave the dash in also.
 
Just pull the interior... Front pans it's best to pull the seat(s) but you have to get the carpet out of the way, also be aware that if the car is undercoated you have to watch for fires under the car...
 
Thanks, I have the carpet and seats out. Just haven't done this before. Trying to learn all I can before I start.
 
Toss plastic over everything you don't want metal dust all over, on, or in... Harbor Freight has the spot weld drill bits..
 
It's not hard. Go slow and watch some videos. I think mopar magazine has an online tutorial on a duster. Same principal so check it out. Do one side at a time. Less stress and chance to screw it up. I just did my Duster this winter.
 
Great info, I'll check some u tube video's later today
 
Not yet, They are around and not so expensive. I started the fuel system replacement, I've kind of jumped around doing what I can when I could. Woke up to snow this morning, but still had to work. Now they are calling for 4 to 6 inches maybe more tomorrow night and Thursday. I'm not off again till Sunday and Monday. Thought a bought using a sand blaster to clean up the rust in the floors. Not sure though. I ordered all new hoses and belts for under the hood. Found the 2 in lug nuts from a friend on here. Seems like ever time I look at her I see something else I need to repair.
My wife would say #over my head. It's ok, Goldie is patiently waiting for me to come out and show her some love. I was hoping to have her ready to go to Rockingham Drag way in April for a huge drag race car show and swap meet. Guess it will be next year.
How's everything with you. Cold I guess.
 
Very cold. A sandblaster sounds good. Keep chipping away and you will soon begin to see improvement just look at what Ulf did with his Dartcharger it took time but is a beauty now.
 
Tadams said:
Thought a bought using a sand blaster to clean up the rust in the floors. Not sure though.
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If you have another option other than sandblasting, I would do it. I can vouch for the fact that sand will get everywhere inside - even in places where you don't want it. Been there done that never again!
 
65 Dartman said:
If you have another option other than sandblasting, I would do it. I can vouch for the fact that sand will get everywhere inside - even in places where you don't want it. Been there done that never again!
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A flap disc might be a better and cheaper option over the sandblaster?
 
The floor pan sets in from the top and is welded to the top of the rocker assembly, cross member and frame rails. No advantage to removing the engine or transmission.

Watch out for the fuel line which is attached to the floor on the passenger side.

On my convertible, I was able to replace the floor in one piece. Not sure if that would work with a hard top. I took lots of pictures. Here's the thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=196103
 
I'm replacing the fuel line, so will more than likely not have one in place when I cut.
Thanks
 
I know sand will get everywhere, been there done that, but I felt I could get into a few places that are hard with a sander. I have one and have sanded quite a bit. Just a thought.
Thanks for the info.
 
Also if you replace each side only, watch out for the braces under neath when you make the long cut on the tunnel. If you do have to replace both sides, front and rear,, order a one piece with tunnel. It is easier that way. Also make sure you brace car up good prior to removal so frame does not shift.
 
I wasn't able to find a one piece for my car. Only replacing passenger side front and rear
 
That won't be bad. Reason I said was I did both sides. By the time I was done I could have easily replaced tunnel as well. Try and butt weld the pan to the tunnel if you can. Less rust issues later.
 
NodakDuster said:
Also if you replace each side only, watch out for the braces under neath when you make the long cut on the tunnel. If you do have to replace both sides, front and rear,, order a one piece with tunnel. It is easier that way. Also make sure you brace car up good prior to removal so frame does not shift.
Click to expand...

No new one piece pans are made for the early A
 
When I did the floor in my 65 I sandblasted inside the trans crossmember and frame rails.

1965barracuda003-2.jpg
 
If you don't have one buy a 4" grinder. Don't buy the $9.99 one at HF this is one tool that it is worth spending a little more on.
If you drill a few holes in the pan where it mounts you can spot weld everything from above
 
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