What are you guys doing for an overdrive setup?

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1GTMOPAR

65 DART GT CONV
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So I'm looking to do an overdrive in my 65 dart. It's got a 426 small block with roughly 600hp 580 ft/lbs. I'm thinking 727 with gear vendors OD unit. I know the later factory OD transmissions suck when it comes to handling HP. Even thought a 4L80 with adapter plate. I'm looking for options. Modifying tunnel is no big deal to accommodate larger housings.
 
Not sure where you get your information that a Dodge OD can't handle the power you're at, but it certainly can handle it and alot more if its built with the right parts/setup.
 
The A518 is essentially a 727 with an OD made onto it. I don't know who you've talked to that says they cannot handle power, but they are wrong.

If you don't mind cutting the floor pan, the A518 is the transmission I would use.
 
For me the big downside of "factory" od is not strength, but the fact that you have to chop up the floor and crossmember.

If you search here, there's threads on putting A-500 (904 based) and the problems with A-518 (727 based) OD in these, and there's a good big thread about putting the GM 4 speed 200R4 or whatever it's called, which does not require floor work.
 
My brother has a Dakota RT with the 518 in it and we have gone through 2 of them. The one in my 2500 Cummins has been problematic as well. Going to call Rossler Trans to see what they can come up with. I'm open to try whatever as long as it will hold torque and last.
 
I tuned and drove Mike Musto's (producer of Big Muscle on Youtube) Black B-body with a 440 727 and Gear Vendor's overdrive for about a week. it was my first exposure to the Gear Vendor's unit. To me, the limited amount of overdrive it provides is not worth bothering with.

I went the modified Stage 2 (750 hp rated) 200R4 with a 3000rpm stall lock-up torque converter route in my '68 Barracuda with a 480 hp Magnum based 408" EFI'd stroker motor. I used the SFI bellhousing to adapt it to my Mopar engine. With the lock-up converter, it's the closest thing to a 5 speed automatic I have ever experienced, and has a .67 overdrive with a 2.76 to 1 first gear. It's light, uses no computers and has a one wire to hook-up for the lock-up converter. I run mine with 3.91's. It's very quick out of the hole and will cruise comfortably at 80+ mph. Best of both worlds really.

The Stage 3 will handle over 1000 hp and either one will bolt up to any Mopar engine including the new Hemis with an SFI rated bellhousing, but not the Slant 6 at this point. It takes significantly less power to drive than the Mopar overdrives too.

I did have to notch the crossmember, but didn't have to hack up the floor. I love the combination and highly recommend it.
 
Someone isn't building them right then. The power and torque you have is nothing for a properly built 518 for gas or diesel. Try 3x the torque or 2x the HP. I build these all the time for serious HP diesels, and gas cars are much less stressful since they spin way more RPMs.
 
I tuned and drove Mike Musto's (producer of Big Muscle on Youtube) Black B-body with a 440 727 and Gear Vendor's overdrive for about a week. it was my first exposure to the Gear Vendor's unit. To me, the limited amount of overdrive it provides is not worth bothering with.

I went the modified Stage 2 (750 hp rated) 200R4 with a 3000rpm stall lock-up torque converter route in my '68 Barracuda with a Magnum based 408" EFI'd stroker motor. I used the SFI bellhousing to adapt it to my Mopar engine. With the lock-up converter, it's the closest thing to a 5 speed automatic I have ever experienced, and has a .67 overdrive with a 2.76 to 1 first gear. It's light, uses no computers and has a one wire to hook-up for the lock-up converter. I run mine with 3.91's. It's very quick out of the hole and will cruise comfortably at 80+ mph. Best of both worlds really.

The Stage 3 will handle over 1000 hp and either one will bolt up to any Mopar engine including the new Hemis with an SFI rated bellhousing, but not the Slant 6 at this point. It takes significantly less power to drive than the Mopar overdrives too.

I did have to notch the crossmember, but didn't have to hack up the floor. I love the combination and highly recommend it.

Sounds like what I'm looking for. Where did you have it built and roughly what did it run you? Was it a crate tranny ready to go?
 
Sounds like what I'm looking for. Where did you have it built and roughly what did it run you? Was it a crate tranny ready to go?

Interested also! Is this cable operated? Could the factory floor shifter be made to work?
 
Sounds like what I'm looking for. Where did you have it built and roughly what did it run you? Was it a crate tranny ready to go?[/QUOTE

I wrote up and photo documented my install here. A search of my posts will bring up the link. My install is slightly different than some others who have well-written, well-documented installs. I used a bellhousing to adapt the transmision to my small block Moar, shile others typically have used an adapter plate to mount them.

I invested nearly a grand in a well built Precision of New Hampton - 3000 rpm stall, 3 carbon fiber lock-up disc torque converter. Ask for Milt if you go this route. It is worth every penny.

The Extreme Automatics Stage 2 transmission and adapter ring was $2200, plus just under $400 for the SFI Reid bellhousing. I modified the torsion bar and fabricated the transmission mount. I also had a Strange chrome moly drive shaft made with 1350 u-joints and forged flanges. You will also need a 10 inch longer speedometer cable.

If you are predominantly a drag racer, skip the lock-up feature as it does add reciprocating weight, which takes hp to spin. it will lower your torque converter costs too.

Lonnie, the owner/ builder of the Extreme Automatics is a great man to work with in all regards. Highly recommended.
 
Hey 1GTMOPAR, I also went with a 200-4R from Extreme Automatics. I haven't received it yet, but the build is the same - used the Reid bellhousing.
Something different is Lonnie from Extreme Automatics is supplying everything, trans, bellhousing and he's also building the converter. He wanted all of the specs for my Dart including engine and cam specs so he could build the lock-up converter specifically for my application. He said it will have 3000 rpm stall.
Oh, and I had Lonnie build mine as a reverse-pattern, full manual shift so it cost a bit more but I won't have to mess with a TV cable and the proper adjustment.
As said earlier, the 200-4R has a .67 overdrive. I'm going with 4.30 rear gears which will give me a 2.88 final drive when locked-up on the freeway and the initial launch ought to be outstanding.
Best of both worlds! It's gonna be a fun driver.
Oh yeah, check out the rear trans mount now being built by US Car Tool specifically for this application. This will make it so much easier to modify the rear torsion bar crossmember...

http://store.uscartool.com/67-75-A-Body-GM2004R-Cross-Member-Kit_p_107.html
 
Interested also! Is this cable operated? Could the factory floor shifter be made to work?

I am using a cable operated floor shifter. Treblig, a member here, did modify the factory floor shifter to work with this tranmission swap.
 
Im also in the 200r4 camp. Doing mine this winter. I'd do a real stout 200r4, or the 4l80 with your power level.

My problem with the a500/a518 is that they are a OD unit bolted on the back of a 3 spd, not an actual 4 spd like many others. More weight, and more moving mass going down the road...

Someone here on FABO posted his pre/post ET's with the same car, same tune, same gear and exact same converter used from a 904 to a A500... Even with the lower 1st gear in the a500 he had the EXACT same 60', then slowed down 4mph, and almost 4/10ths overall... talk about parasitic loss...

I also agree that the GV unit just isn't that much OD for the cash...

joe
 
not sure how the GV unit is "not enough overdrive to bother with it?" In my situation I would go from 3:55 to 2:77 final drive. Sounds good to me. Only thing that irks me about g.v is the price and lack of a competitor.
 
not sure how the GV unit is "not enough overdrive to bother with it?" In my situation I would go from 3:55 to 2:77 final drive. Sounds good to me. Only thing that irks me about g.v is the price and lack of a competitor.

the 200's .67 turns that into something like a 2.40 gear.. :) thats a huge difference from a 2.77 gear. at those numbers you can go to 4.10's or more and still get the same revs on the highway.

don't see why GV doesn't offer a better OD ratio as an option.
 
Hey 1GTMOPAR, I also went with a 200-4R from Extreme Automatics. I haven't received it yet, but the build is the same - used the Reid bellhousing.
Something different is Lonnie from Extreme Automatics is supplying everything, trans, bellhousing and he's also building the converter. He wanted all of the specs for my Dart including engine and cam specs so he could build the lock-up converter specifically for my application. He said it will have 3000 rpm stall.
Oh, and I had Lonnie build mine as a reverse-pattern, full manual shift so it cost a bit more but I won't have to mess with a TV cable and the proper adjustment.
As said earlier, the 200-4R has a .67 overdrive. I'm going with 4.30 rear gears which will give me a 2.88 final drive when locked-up on the freeway and the initial launch ought to be outstanding.
Best of both worlds! It's gonna be a fun driver.
Oh yeah, check out the rear trans mount now being built by US Car Tool specifically for this application. This will make it so much easier to modify the rear torsion bar crossmember...

http://store.uscartool.com/67-75-A-Body-GM2004R-Cross-Member-Kit_p_107.html



this the bell housing? is there a special flexplate that has to be purchased too?
http://www.reidracing.biz/transmission-products/bellhousings/small-block-mopar-bellhousing
 
From what I read on the topic here, if you went this route, the converter front cover is standard Dodge, so a standard flexplate should work.
 
Pretty cool stuff. Thanks for all the info. Definitely getting easier to do the swap.
 
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