help flaring nickel-copper lines

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rich006

rich006

Learning as I go
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What am I doing wrong? In the pics you can see that the inner edge of the rolled-over part is getting pushed out instead of down. I've watched a bunch of videos, and I've tried two different flaring tools but my flares keep coming out all burred and ugly. I'm a novice when it comes to tube flaring by the way.
badFlare1.png

badFlare2.png
 
abodyjoe said:
are you putting them in the holder part properly?
Click to expand...

Far as I can tell. I've used two types of tools. One has two thumbscrews. The tube slips if they are only finger-tight, so I've used a screwdriver to tighten them. To set the height you are supposed to have the tube stick out the same distance as the thickness of the base of the adapter. The other tool I've tried has a pliers-type handle that uses a cam to squeeze the two parts together, so it's always the same tightness. On that one you set the height using a notch cut out of the bar that holds all the adapters.
 
Thumb screws or wing nuts? The rod that comes with mine for the flair cone is also used through the wing nuts to make sure the blocks are flush against each other. The step on the insert is the protrusion gauge to measure how far the tube extends through the blocks prior to flaring.
flaring_93fb.gif
 
What kind of tool are you using? This is not the tool to go el-cheapo on. Get a professional double flaring kit, Mac, Matco, Snap-On, etc...

You have to use the tool provided in the kit to set the amount of tube to stick out past the flare tool for the first flare. Make sure to crank the f*ck down real tight on the clamping screws/wingnuts for the clamp tool - you must have the tube securely held so it doesn't walk when trying to flare.

Then use the round tool in the end for the first flare.

And remove the round tool and finish the flare.

*Note: The harder the metal that you try to flare, the tighter you have to clamp it...
 
a little lube wont hurt either. Just don't get lube where you clamp it.
 
Looks like you are tightening the tapered cone into far on the second step. This type of lines are soft and can be over tightened very easy when making a flare
 
I bet you have "crap" tube. Probably too hard or poor alloy. Somebody, either here or at YB ran into this. Got different tube, and he looked like a "star."
 
What size is the tube? Did you get a hold of metric tube?
 
Looks like you're doing fine, you just need to adjust the technique. As above, be sure to
de-burr the ID after you've cut the tubing.Also as above per OMM, you are way over-doing
the second step, which ain't hard to do w/ that ni-cop stuff. It is very convenient to route
thru a labyrinth and bend, but it's like working w/ bubble gum. Try shortening the amount of
tubing so that it is not up to the gauge, I have found that to help w/ soft tubing, then do the
1st step and see how far it "rolls" towards the ID of the tubing. It should not be at or smaller
than the tubing ID, and it definitely should not "pinch" the stem on the forming die. Then put
just enuff taper to see a seat ring, believe me, that crap will form itself like a glove to what-
ever fitting or hose end you're mating it to.
Just an FYI, that stuff turns green and ugly after not too long, so if appearance means a
lot to you, use something else or never-dull/coat the stuff.
:coffee2:
 
I,m with mguner, in post #6. I think you are letting the tube stick out to far in the clamp tool. The double flare insert, is the gage for extrusion lenght, on the clamp. You want the tube to stick out the same width as the insert. The inserts are the little round things you put in the end of the exposed tube, to make double flares.

barracudadave67
 
barracudadave67 said:
I,m with mguner, in post #6. I think you are letting the tube stick out to far in the clamp tool. The double flare insert, is the gage for extrusion lenght, on the clamp. You want the tube to stick out the same width as the insert. The inserts are the little round things you put in the end of the exposed tube, to make double flares.

barracudadave67
Click to expand...


That's what I was trying to explain, but didn't get it across as good as you...

Setting the depth of the first flare is critical...
 
Yes, and as I stated 2 posts up, sometimes right is not right w/ that soft stuff. You have
to set it up "short" of the gauge.
 
And 45 seat is 2-3X wider than it should be........
 
With the tube a little less "proud" from the tool, I'm getting a better inverted flare on the first step. On the second step, lighter pressure is giving much better results. Many thanks!
 
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