Steering couple not reaching

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SB69GTS

SB69GTS

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Back again .... Steering column has been all redone ... Went to put it in and the steering couple will only go over the first set of splines and cannot get it to go down far enough to put the roll pin back in. What am I doing wrong guys.
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Either the steering shaft is collapsed, or did you change from power to manual steering, there is different lengths in the columns.
 
I believe that there is one spot on the splined shaft where the coupler slides down and allows the pin to go all the way in the hole!!
 
take the bolts out of the lower bearing and use a pipewrench adjusted to the steering shaft size and tap it down with a hammer then tap the bearing back into place and put the bolts back in.
 
Sedanman said:
take the bolts out of the lower bearing and use a pipewrench adjusted to the steering shaft size and tap it down with a hammer then tap the bearing back into place and put the bolts back in.
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The one thing I noticed is when I push the coupler back and off the steering box, it will only slide down about 1/2 ....I need it to go down about an inch at least. If I take the 2 bolts out of the bearing and tap down on the shaft .... will that break those nylon set screws on the collapsible column
 
sireland67 said:
Either the steering shaft is collapsed, or did you change from power to manual steering, there is different lengths in the columns.
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Its the original steering column but I did get a new steering box from napa. It looked identical and all the power steering hoses fit perfectly. There are 2 white nylon pins still in the shaft ...so I dont believe the steering column is collasped unless the stay in there.
 
I have tapped them down without issue but I don't know what shape your nylon is in. It looks like you need about 1/2 an inch. Also don't have your coupler slid all the way to the end,you want some up/down play.I would set it just shy from the top.
 
Sedanman said:
He ran out of travel and needs to pull the shaft down 1/2 more
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That nailed it ... there is no more travel in the rod and I'm at least 1/2 to an inch short. Will try ro take bearing out and see it rod in hung up or try tapping it down lightly
 
I Tapped the column on a concrete floor to shear the nylon pins. Now it fits anything! Mine was too long. As far as I'm concerned those nylon pins are nothing more than assembly line aids. It may not be true, but I drive with my seat way back, and my seat-back leaned over even backer, so if all it takes to kill me in a collision is that extra inch of D-shaft, so be it.That was 1998.
 
The plastic pins you see don't hold anything in place, it's just part of the manufacturing process where the plastic is injected between the two shafts, the plastic that gets melted between the shafts is what holds them together.
Try loosening the column from the under the dash and at the firewall and see if you can slide the whole thing closer to the steering box, you halfway on the steering box so the master spline is lined up.
 
It can't go any further than the firewall so his issue is he needs to pull the shaft out at least 1/2 an inch
 
Sedanman said:
It can't go any further than the firewall so his issue is he needs to pull the shaft out at least 1/2 an inch
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You guessed it.... tight to the firewall .... have pulled the column out and taken it apart again...took shaft out and tapped it down 3/4 inch ....two pins are there and put some weld bond in other 2. There is a notch on top of the coupler and it slides down over first part of spline. I did notice the steering box has a wider grove at the 9 o'clock spot. Does that notch have to line up with the notch on the coupler that's at 12 o'clock. It does slide now over first spline but not second set.
 
Yes those are the master spline indicators. The coupler will only slide down onto the main stub when the two master splines are aligned. .
This is so that the steering wheel will be in the correct position to center the sector shaft on the rack and put the steering box in the center of its travel where it's sensitivity is the lowest. This so you won't have to chase the car all over the road while trying to cruise in a straight line. If the car does not steer straight ahead with the splines correctly engaged and the steering wheel correctly oriented, then the tie-rods are not adjusted correctly.
If you ever remove the steering wheel,you will find a similar methodology there; Master splines that have to be aligned to engage.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Yes those are the master spline indicators. The coupler will only slide down onto the main stub when the two master splines are aligned. .
This is so that the steering wheel will be in the correct position to center the sector shaft on the rack and put the steering box in the center of its travel where it's sensitivity is the lowest. This so you won't have to chase the car all over the road while trying to cruise in a straight line. If the car does not steer straight ahead with the splines correctly engaged and the steering wheel correctly oriented, then the tie-rods are not adjusted correctly.
If you ever remove the steering wheel,you will find a similar methodology there; Master splines that have to be aligned to engage.
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OK so the mark on the coupler is on the very top.... I cannot turn the spline on the steering box ..... it's a quarter turn out to line up with the coupler mark and the groove in the spline. Is it that hard to turn the steering box spline because the car needs to be running to get the power steering spline to turn.
 
there is a notch in the spline and also inside the coupler. It will only slide on the box one way.
 
Hyup, only one way. Kick the tire or turn the D-tube coming from the steering wheel; Unlock the steering wheel,lol if you have a 70-up car. Twist/turn,engage,slide it home.
Wait; the column is loose on it's three mounting studs right? and the floor-plate is loose too ,right?
After the coupler is locked on, then you go align the column saddle, and finally secure the floor-plate.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Hyup, only one way. Kick the tire or turn the D-tube coming from the steering wheel; Unlock the steering wheel,lol if you have a 70-up car. Twist/turn,engage,slide it home.
Wait; the column is loose on it's three mounting studs right? and the floor-plate is loose too ,right?
After the coupler is locked on, then you go align the column saddle, and finally secure the floor-plate.
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It's a 69 dart. 3 mounting screws are loose and the floor plate is not bolted on. No tires either. Was hoping to turn spline as I can only feel it with my finger and not see it. That's why I was hoping to somehow turn it .will try again in morning to slide it on the way it is. I assume the mark should be on top and wheels straight when done.right?
 
If/when everything is put together correctly, the wheels will be pointed straight ahead and the master splines will all be on top, coupling, steering gear, steering wheel and all, where they can be seen.
That roll pin hole will be vertical on the engine side of the coupling so to drive the pin in. That header might make it more difficult.
The fault occurs at the pitman arm. It will go on 4 different ways, thus it should be the final connection at most shade trees, gear box centered, everything straight ahead, as if on assembly line.
 
I always mark the outside of the coupler where the notch is inside to make it easier to locate when sliding it on.
 
Sedanman said:
I always mark the outside of the coupler where the notch is inside to make it easier to locate when sliding it on.
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OEM box coupling does have a small V shape notch cut in the edge above the internal master spline. To highlight that could only help.
 
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