8 3/4 hard to rotate wheels

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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I am having a hard time turing one of the wheels on the recently installed rear. There are tapered bearings on the axles. It's pretty hard to free spin. I didn't see any adjusters on the bearings, any suggestions on why one wheel is so hard to turn? Also no oil in rear right now
 
Could it be because you have a sure grip and you having to turn both wheels and part of the trans?
 
One side should have an adjuster to set bearing pre-load. Usually I believe this adjuster is on the passenger side but it is not exclusively designated to that side, especially if someone has gotten their hands on it and "modified" it in some way. I would pull axles and grease the bearings, install them back in and tighten adjuster so there is no end play.....some say to leave a couple thousands of end play....I figure with a freshly packed bearing, that will be a couple of thou when you get rolling.

I have also run across with new drums hitting the backing plate when wheel is torqued. Grind off a bit and try again.

thas all I got.
 
Be careful when pulling axles to keep an eye out for the "buttons" that are up against the center of carrier. Thrust buttons or something like that.
 
There are no adjusters and no sure grip. As I tightened the axle retaining plates, everything got harder to rotate. Maybe I should pull and just install some green bearings
 
There has to be an axle adjuster on one side for things to work right with factory type bearings. It should be on the right side but as was said "could" be on either as long as it's there. You may have issues with how the bearings were pressed on. The assembly should be the flange, then bearing, then lock ring on both sides, with the RH axle having the adjuster on it. If you have no adjuster, you have to either replace with Green bearings (I get mine from Dr. Diff) or get an adjuster and install it on the RH axle.
 
Maybe you have 2 axles from the same side, the side without an adjuster. Throw in atleast 1 qt. of lube
 
One side is supposed to have an adjuster. Axle needs about .008-.012 of play.
 
Without the adjuster there would be tons of free play! The adjuster is not a readily apparent piece, meaning without the locking clip you could easily overlook it! Sounds like you may have an adjuster that is run all the way in, and when tightening the axle down, it's putting too much force on the thrust button and tightening everything up too much!! Just a guess!!

See that toothy thing between the flange and the the mounting flange?? That's the adjuster!!

IMG_3596.JPG
 
Or maybe the "thrust button" is jamming you up... but get am axle with an adjuster. .....oe green bearings.

Why is there supposed to be so much end play?
 
cosgig said:
Without the adjuster there would be tons of free play! The adjuster is not a readily apparent piece, meaning without the locking clip you could easily overlook it! Sounds like you may have an adjuster that is run all the way in, and when tightening the axle down, it's putting too much force on the thrust button and tightening everything up too much!! Just a guess!!

See that toothy thing between the flange and the the mounting flange?? That's the adjuster!!

View attachment 1715043529
Click to expand...
I do have those! Which way do I spin to loosen it up?
 
Ok, when you turn the adjuster clockwise it applies the pressure, counterclockwise loosens it!!

So, let's run this down!! The adjuster only needs to be on one side, and it's almost always on the passenger side! The drivers side axle should not have an adjuster, and all of the adjustment needs to come from one side! The thrust button in the center of the center section applies the pressure to the drivers side, so that side is stationary! The procedure is you put the drivers side in first and bolt it down! Put the passenger side in with the adjuster all of the way out! Turn it clockwise until there is no backlash at all, and check it by pulling and pushing in the axle as you adjust it! Tap both axle ends with a dead blow hammer a couple times and check the end play again, then back the adjuster out 2 notches and lock it down! That should be in spec at .008-.010"!! Check it by pulling in and out, it should have just a little movement!! You will adjust it no more than 4 teeth!! Hope this helps! If you don't have a lockdown tab, message me and I'll send you one out! I just saw one somewhere around here!
 
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does one bend the tab to lock it down?
Is there only one thrust button?
Just making sure...i have a diff here in peices, but there are two buttons in the pile o stuff.

Thanks!

excellent re-cap by the way!
 
No bending!
There a supposed to be a lock plate installed last on one of the studs and then the nut. The lock plate engages between the teeth on the "toothy thing",lol.
I run my rear bearings much tighter
 
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Geof helped me out on this job when I first got my Duster! Always does an excellent job explaining things!!
 
You gotta learn what you are lookin at first. Get yourself a factory service manual.
 
AJ/FormS said:
No bending!
There a supposed to be a lock plate installed last on one of the studs and then the nut. The lock plate engages between the teeth on the "toothy thing",lol.
I rub my rear bearings much tighter
Click to expand...

You been rubbing your bearings again??? :) Can't get much tighter than .008", that's 2 clicks!! I guess you could go one click, that's too tight for me!!
 
How about so little I can barely feel it, just enough for the hot lube to get in there,lol. I set it hot.I use whatever stud lines the loc-plate up.And loosen to the next cog if required.I checked once, I think it mightabeen .003.
Why?
IDK
Been doing it on my stuff that way since the 70s.Oh I remember why, I hated that clunking back there whenever I leaned on the car. Clunk,clunk; boy that's a sickening sound.
Funny thing is the fronts I run loose. For knock-back on the pistons. I use it to release the pads a tiny bit more, so when I put it in neutral, she coasts forever. It is my hope that I might drive a few miles further on a tank of gas.

Previous post edited, you know; about the rubbing,lol
 
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I think i was gyped, both axles I recall have that adjuster in the photo. Is clock wise me looking toward the center section or from the spline towards the wheel studs
 
So the adjuster should be turned all the way towards the brake drum or towards the middle of the car?
cosgig said:
Without the adjuster there would be tons of free play! The adjuster is not a readily apparent piece, meaning without the locking clip you could easily overlook it! Sounds like you may have an adjuster that is run all the way in, and when tightening the axle down, it's putting too much force on the thrust button and tightening everything up too much!! Just a guess!!

See that toothy thing between the flange and the the mounting flange?? That's the adjuster!!

View attachment 1715043529
Click to expand...
juster
 
Rear axle bearing end play adjustment 101:

With the rear axle off the ground and properly supported, remove rear wheels and drums. With a fairly large ball peen hammer, hit the driver's side axle a few times to assure all the end play is on the passenger's side.

Go to the passenger's side and remove the adjuster lock. It is retained by one of the axle retaining nuts. Once removed, tighten the adjuster so that ALL end play is removed, then a little more.

Next, loosen the adjuster until you achieve between .006-.010 end play on the right side only. Do not push and pull the axle hard enough to engage the drivers side axle, as you will have to repeat the procedure again from the start with the hammer.

There is really nothing to it. However, as other's have pointed out, there could be a problem with your thrust button. You'll know if it you have difficulty adjusting the end play.
 
What if i have two adjusters? Loosen driver side all the way?
 
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