8 3/4 hard to rotate wheels

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75slant6 said:
Hey Michael, I think I have a drivers side axle flange (without the adjuster) in the shop. Pay shipping and it's yours.
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Thanks but low budget runner right now. Temp solutions are fine right now
 
SRT_DSTR15 said:
So the adjuster should be turned all the way towards the brake drum or towards the middle of the car?

juster
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looking at the axle installed, a clockwise rotation of the adjuster tightens it, CCW loosens it!! With the adjuster on both sides, there's no way to tell where the drivers side axle should be set! There isn't that much adjustment to be had, so if you insist on using the adjusters on both sides, you will have to play with it! I guess I would start with the drivers side adjuster in the middle somewhere!!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Rear axle bearing end play adjustment 101:

With the rear axle off the ground and properly supported, remove rear wheels and drums. With a fairly large ball peen hammer, hit the driver's side axle a few times to assure all the end play is on the passenger's side.

Go to the passenger's side and remove the adjuster lock. It is retained by one of the axle retaining nuts. Once removed, tighten the adjuster so that ALL end play is removed, then a little more.

Next, loosen the adjuster until you achieve between .006-.010 end play on the right side only. Do not push and pull the axle hard enough to engage the drivers side axle, as you will have to repeat the procedure again from the start with the hammer.

There is really nothing to it. However, as other's have pointed out, there could be a problem with your thrust button. You'll know if it you have difficulty adjusting the end play.
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I suspect that since he has an adjuster on both sides, and he didn't even know he had one, that both adjusters are probably run all the way in, making it very hard to turn!!! That's just my deduction from his text!!
 
cosgig said:
I suspect that since he has an adjuster on both sides, and he didn't even know he had one, that both adjusters are probably run all the way in, making it very hard to turn!!! That's just my deduction from his text!!
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i will check it out guys, purchased rear from a mopar guy on this site who apparently had no idea wth he is doing. I clearly have no idea about stock bearings either until now
 
cosgig said:
I suspect that since he has an adjuster on both sides, and he didn't even know he had one, that both adjusters are probably run all the way in, making it very hard to turn!!! That's just my deduction from his text!!
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I didn't see where it was 100% determined he has two.
 
SRT_DSTR15 said:
i will check it out guys, purchased rear from a mopar guy on this site who apparently had no idea wth he is doing. I clearly have no idea about stock bearings either until now
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Easy boy. You don't know what you're lookin at either. Nobody knows everything. No need to make him sound like the bad guy.
 
I just accepted fault.. so idk what you're talking about. Guy has 4 cars, cuda, barracuda and a dart and lots of work done to both. Said he took the rear out of one of his cars, apparently not accurate since both axles are passenger side.

You read stuff how you will. Who you interpret things is up to you.

However, I have learned more today thanks to all of you. So I appreciate it and will try to get it solved or go green bearings, thanks everyone

RustyRatRod said:
Easy boy. You don't know what you're lookin at either. Nobody knows everything. No need to make him sound like the bad guy.
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There is nothing wrong with running adjusters on both sides. It's no big deal. You may even get to center your wheels a bit better in the wheelhouses.
I've even swapped the axles around and put the adjuster on the driver's side for that reason.
With dual adjusters I would just drive everything over to the driver's side, back off the P-side, attempt to secure the P-side retainer, and if no-go, back off the D-side a couple of turns. Then back to securing the P-side. If successful, snug up the adjuster to zero.
Then if it was important, (like it was for me trying to put 325s in there), center up the axle flanges in the wheelhouses, by shifting everything to one side or the other.
Finally I would again drive everything over to the D-side and set the end-play on the P-side.
If the Pside adjuster ends up significantly deeper in the plate,than the Dside, I would back it off a couple of turns, and go tighten the Dside instead. If the adjusters end up too deep, the loc-plate won't hold on to them.

Now you need to be aware of one thing. The slot in the center spacer is only so long. It has happened to me that the drivers side axle was shorter than the P-side. After setting the endplay on the Pside, my D-side was still clunking in and out! Make sure this doesn't happen to you. Go check it!
In case you don't understand what is going on;
The non-adjuster side is normally the stopper; you are simply driving all the guts against it, then backing off a hair for grease clearance.You did grease those bearings right? They do not share oil with the differential. There are inner seals that are supposed to prevent the gear oil from getting into the axle bearings. When the inner seals fail, the gear oil gets into the bearings and runs right out into the brake drum; not good. I use a thick-bodied, black, Moly grease. I think the proper name is Molybdenum disulphide, or something close to that.You have to pack the grease into the space between the rollers and the smooth races.And I put some grease in the bearing housing too.Lots actually. This is partly why you need to "pound" the axle back and forth, to squeeze the excess grease out of the way.This grease not only prevents metal to metal contact, but is also the cooling system for those hard-working balls.
 
AJ/FormS said:
There is nothing wrong with running adjusters on both sides. It's no big deal. You may even get to center your wheels a bit better in the wheelhouses.
I've even swapped the axles around and put the adjuster on the driver's side for that reason.
With dual adjusters I would just drive everything over to the driver's side, back off the P-side, attempt to secure the P-side retainer, and if no-go, back off the D-side a couple of turns. Then back to securing the P-side. If successful, snug up the adjuster to zero.
Then if it was important, (like it was for me trying to put 325s in there), center up the axle flanges in the wheelhouses, by shifting everything to one side or the other.
Finally I would again drive everything over to the D-side and set the end-play on the P-side.
If the Pside adjuster ends up significantly deeper in the plate,than the Dside, I would back it off a couple of turns, and go tighten the Dside instead. If the adjusters end up too deep, the loc-plate won't hold on to them.

Now you need to be aware of one thing. The slot in the center spacer is only so long. It has happened to me that the drivers side axle was shorter than the P-side. After setting the endplay on the Pside, my D-side was still clunking in and out! Make sure this doesn't happen to you. Go check it!
In case you don't understand what is going on;
The non-adjuster side is normally the stopper; you are simply driving all the guts against it, then backing off a hair for grease clearance.You did grease those bearings right? They do not share oil with the differential. There are inner seals that are supposed to prevent the gear oil from getting into the axle bearings. When the inner seals fail, the gear oil gets into the bearings and runs right out into the brake drum; not good. I use a thick-bodied, black, Moly grease. I think the proper name is Molybdenum disulphide, or something close to that.You have to pack the grease into the space between the rollers and the smooth races.And I put some grease in the bearing housing too.Lots actually. This is partly why you need to "pound" the axle back and forth, to squeeze the excess grease out of the way.This grease not only prevents metal to metal contact, but is also the cooling system for those hard-working balls.
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Thank you for this! I do have an issue with the driver side axle being closwr to the 2/4 than the passenger side, but i thought it was due to the rear being shifted because I have not moved the perches in to A body specs. So Looks like I have a combo of issues
 
So, check it out and report back! If you have 2 adjusters, it can be done as outlined above! When you add another aspect like an additional adjuster into the mix, it complicates things somewhat! Without knowledge of how the 100% factory setup works, adjusting both sides can be a daunting task, but it's not that hard to figure out! Start with both adjusters in the middle, that should get you centered pretty close, and back one off until you get your end play!!
 
Center your wheels in the wheelhouse better? WTF? You mean by .060"? Damn AJ, sometimes you kill me.
 
This post is comical to say the least!

Why did they only put a right hand thread adjuster on the passenger side of the car? I know it has a lock tab but think about it! Yall can argue about that for a while!:lol:
 
Cuz the rear ends are offset. That's why every stock Dart you are ever likely to see dogtracks.

Rusty; try fitting 325s in there and .060 is everything
But I see about .200 possible with dual adjusters.Perhaps a bit more.
 
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Has anyone asked, where are the pics of the axle bearings? If cash is tight, do not buy green bearings. I like A J s method of fine tuneing the adjustment when warmed up
 
oldkimmer said:
So u have a B body rear in an A body and didn't move the spring pads, is that right? Looks like u have a few problems. Kim
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It's not mandatory. Stay on topic. Or please don't offer the help. I asked because I didn't know about my current issue, everything else i know what i need to do.
 
Being a non-Sure Grip, chances are the thrust transfer is a 1 piece unit, but I would pull both axles & look down both tubes & be sure everything's where it belongs. And that
nothing that doesn't belong there isn't, :eek:, lol!! Your goal is to have both axles close to the same distance from the backing plates, then get the end-play set maintaining that.
My method wasn't by the book, but I snugged mine up 'till there was zero play, rapped the axle w/the adj. w/a hammer on a block of wood, then re-snugged if needed to zero
play. Backed the adj. up 'till it caught the next notch & installed the lock, always worked for Me.
 
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