SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Thanks but low budget runner right now. Temp solutions are fine right nowHey Michael, I think I have a drivers side axle flange (without the adjuster) in the shop. Pay shipping and it's yours.
Thanks but low budget runner right now. Temp solutions are fine right nowHey Michael, I think I have a drivers side axle flange (without the adjuster) in the shop. Pay shipping and it's yours.
Ok. If you decide you want it just let me knowThanks but low budget runner right now. Temp solutions are fine right now
looking at the axle installed, a clockwise rotation of the adjuster tightens it, CCW loosens it!! With the adjuster on both sides, there's no way to tell where the drivers side axle should be set! There isn't that much adjustment to be had, so if you insist on using the adjusters on both sides, you will have to play with it! I guess I would start with the drivers side adjuster in the middle somewhere!!So the adjuster should be turned all the way towards the brake drum or towards the middle of the car?
juster
Rear axle bearing end play adjustment 101:
With the rear axle off the ground and properly supported, remove rear wheels and drums. With a fairly large ball peen hammer, hit the driver's side axle a few times to assure all the end play is on the passenger's side.
Go to the passenger's side and remove the adjuster lock. It is retained by one of the axle retaining nuts. Once removed, tighten the adjuster so that ALL end play is removed, then a little more.
Next, loosen the adjuster until you achieve between .006-.010 end play on the right side only. Do not push and pull the axle hard enough to engage the drivers side axle, as you will have to repeat the procedure again from the start with the hammer.
There is really nothing to it. However, as other's have pointed out, there could be a problem with your thrust button. You'll know if it you have difficulty adjusting the end play.
i will check it out guys, purchased rear from a mopar guy on this site who apparently had no idea wth he is doing. I clearly have no idea about stock bearings either until nowI suspect that since he has an adjuster on both sides, and he didn't even know he had one, that both adjusters are probably run all the way in, making it very hard to turn!!! That's just my deduction from his text!!
I suspect that since he has an adjuster on both sides, and he didn't even know he had one, that both adjusters are probably run all the way in, making it very hard to turn!!! That's just my deduction from his text!!
i will check it out guys, purchased rear from a mopar guy on this site who apparently had no idea wth he is doing. I clearly have no idea about stock bearings either until now
Easy boy. You don't know what you're lookin at either. Nobody knows everything. No need to make him sound like the bad guy.
There is nothing wrong with running adjusters on both sides. It's no big deal. You may even get to center your wheels a bit better in the wheelhouses.
I've even swapped the axles around and put the adjuster on the driver's side for that reason.
With dual adjusters I would just drive everything over to the driver's side, back off the P-side, attempt to secure the P-side retainer, and if no-go, back off the D-side a couple of turns. Then back to securing the P-side. If successful, snug up the adjuster to zero.
Then if it was important, (like it was for me trying to put 325s in there), center up the axle flanges in the wheelhouses, by shifting everything to one side or the other.
Finally I would again drive everything over to the D-side and set the end-play on the P-side.
If the Pside adjuster ends up significantly deeper in the plate,than the Dside, I would back it off a couple of turns, and go tighten the Dside instead. If the adjusters end up too deep, the loc-plate won't hold on to them.
Now you need to be aware of one thing. The slot in the center spacer is only so long. It has happened to me that the drivers side axle was shorter than the P-side. After setting the endplay on the Pside, my D-side was still clunking in and out! Make sure this doesn't happen to you. Go check it!
In case you don't understand what is going on;
The non-adjuster side is normally the stopper; you are simply driving all the guts against it, then backing off a hair for grease clearance.You did grease those bearings right? They do not share oil with the differential. There are inner seals that are supposed to prevent the gear oil from getting into the axle bearings. When the inner seals fail, the gear oil gets into the bearings and runs right out into the brake drum; not good. I use a thick-bodied, black, Moly grease. I think the proper name is Molybdenum disulphide, or something close to that.You have to pack the grease into the space between the rollers and the smooth races.And I put some grease in the bearing housing too.Lots actually. This is partly why you need to "pound" the axle back and forth, to squeeze the excess grease out of the way.This grease not only prevents metal to metal contact, but is also the cooling system for those hard-working balls.
1/42/4?
Cuz the rear ends are offset
It's not mandatory. Stay on topic. Or please don't offer the help. I asked because I didn't know about my current issue, everything else i know what i need to do.So u have a B body rear in an A body and didn't move the spring pads, is that right? Looks like u have a few problems. Kim