Best way to remove steering coupler pin

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Steven190

Steven190

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Looing for a good way to remove the steering coupler pin. The one that holds the internals in.
Want to rebuild the coupler without destroying it.
 
If its the pin through the steering shaft, good luck. I removed one with brute force but is very difficult. I ended up scrapping the shaft for other reasons and kept the pin for a souvenir and reminder not to do that again. I would use a torch to heat the shaft next time.
 
I used a bolt with the threads ground off, but that was only because I was too cheap and/or lazy to go buy a punch set.
 
its a tiny little pin, easy to tap out with a drift and light hammer blows.
The rebuild kits Ive used include a new one.
 
This pin only comes out one side. A proper size punch from the correct side, tap it out. If it does not move at all, you might be trying from the wrong side. I have had good success doing it like that.
 
I believe OP is talking about this pin.
s-l1600.jpg


Not an easy task. I pressed it out partially in a vise with a socket on one side. when flush with shaft I drove it out with punch and BFH.
 
Thanks for the replies. It is the small pin in the coupler, not on the shaft. That one is a ***** to even try to remove.
 
Mopar Tim said:
This pin only comes out one side. A proper size punch from the correct side, tap it out. If it does not move at all, you might be trying from the wrong side. I have had good success doing it like that.
Click to expand...

I am assuming that the correct side is from Inside out.
I tried, a little, with a large pry bar, but it was solid and I did not want to bend it. If it is from the inside ( the shaft side) out through the top. I will try the punch and a hammer.
 
The roll pin is only going to hold the coupler to the gear box. The "guts" will slide out the back after the square cover/seal is removed. A correct size drift will knock the roll pin through.
If there is an internal pin in the coupler holding in the guts, I have never seen one.
 
grjammer said:
The roll pin is only going to hold the coupler to the gear box. The "guts" will slide out the back after the square cover/seal is removed. A correct size drift will knock the roll pin through.
If there is an internal pin in the coupler holding in the guts, I have never seen one.
Click to expand...

This is what I am talking about:

Steering coupler pin.jpg
 
oh yeah, I remember that on one coupler, I had to use a broken off drill bit to drive it through. I just measured it on a coupler, 7/64ths drill, 1/8th too big
 
I shimmed a piece of metal behind it on the steering shaft, then used a small prybar to pry it partially out, then vice grips to twist/pull it carefully the rest of the way
 
Steven190 said:
This is what I am talking about:

View attachment 1715216304
Click to expand...

Yup, same pin I was refering to.
Small punch/drift, light taps from outside should do the job.
just pulled one apart to ship the other day...so its a fresh memory:D

I wouldnt touch the big pin at the shafts end unless it was damaged. Not an easy one to get out.
 
I just rebuilt mine and luckily that little retainer pin wasn't in there. A new one came with the rebuild kit I bought, but I didn't put it back in either.

I went with one of these to keep the seal cover in place and hold everything in.

s-l640.jpg
 
Here is what I am looking at
I finished the car 2 years ago, and drove it all season, no problem. A re-valve power steering box, by Firm Feel. In fact all new suspension Firm Feel parts.
This year I was out coming back from a way show and the steering wheel when form being at 12 o clock to a 1 o clock position.
Had the car re-aligned the steering wheel was again at 12 o clock. Dove the car for awhile and then the steering wheel went to a 11 o clock position. The steering is tight, no sloop.
Now it is driving me nuts, I can not find anything that would do this. Even with the steering wheel in the off positions the car drove straight. So I am thinking that the coupler is off, but just looking at it seems to be OK, the blocks are tight in the grove, the square part. So I am getting another rebuild kit and see what happens, any ideas as to what is going on?
 
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Actually realigned or just recentered the steering wheel?
Did it change all of a sudden or did you hit a pothole, swerve, stab the brakes, etc.?
Sounds like something isnt tightened enough in the steering or suspension. Slipping a bit under loading.
Doesnt sound like a coupler problem imo.
 
Thanks for the reply
I did not hit anything, it happened while driving. Everything is tight, rod ends, idler and pitman. The upper A arm bolts I marked and they did not move.
The coupler was re-built correctly. Moving the steering wheel, in both direction, a little the suspension moves. I am to the point that I think it is the box. It was re-built so I am wondering if something was missed.
When I aligned it last time it took over 1 1/2 hours. We would do one side, then the other, go back to the machine and the setting were off. The steering wheel was locked down, which leads me to thinking that the box has some slope in it, or something is loose. We were returning form a show, about 6 miles away, on the way home the steering wheel worked it's way to the 11 O clock position.
Right now I am going to install QA1's lower control arms, to get rid of the stock ones.Then go to the alignment shop.
Any ideas well be appreciated.
 
I cant think of anything that isnt box related...either its broken internally... or possibly the box itself is shifting on the mounting bolts?
 
I thought about the mounting bolts too. put a 1/2" drive on them, they were tight. I looked at the K member to see if it is cracked, I could not see anything. Will have to check it when and if I take the box off.
 
Frnknsteen said:
I just rebuilt mine and luckily that little retainer pin wasn't in there. A new one came with the rebuild kit I bought, but I didn't put it back in either.

I went with one of these to keep the seal cover in place and hold everything in.

View attachment 1715216349
Click to expand...

Where did you get that clip?
 
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did you ever get that pin out? it should go easily with the right size "dowl" (I like the drill bit idea) and a few taps with a hammer.. you could just let it fall into the cup, the grease will catch it or if you're lucky it'll come out most of the way and hang there and you can grab it with needle nose pliers. I don't like the idea of not reusing it, it sets the depth of and retains the internals where they are supposed to be, don't lose it. "Ma" put it there for a reason. JM2C.
 
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