How to roll the rear quarter lip?

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DrCharles

DrCharles

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I want to fit max width rear tires under my '72 Swinger. With the right backspacing, 325/50R15 should be doable with the spring relocation and minitubs. It's had the rear quarters replaced in the past, and I have learned that the replacement quarters have a wider fender lip than OE. Pic is a 295/50 with too much backspacing on the 15x10 rims. VERY close on the frame rail.

What is the best way to roll the lip (hopefully without taking all the paint off)? I've heard of using a baseball bat... any other techniques?

1121181459-00.jpg


This looks like a possibility and isn't expensive (although more than a bat) :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8XU03O/?tag=joeychgo-20
 
Can buy a fender lip roller. Its adjustable. There are a couple different ones.
Saw a simple one that you make with a couple bearings and slowly work it over.
The other one is more elaborate and you bolt it in place of the wheel.
 
Wow.

With the differential on jack stands & a Sure-Grip rear, seeing one on each side in action at say, 2K RPM would be awesome.

Anyone have a video camera & a Camaro or Mustang I can borrow? ;-)
 
DrCharles said:
I want to fit max width rear tires under my '72 Swinger. With the right backspacing, 325/50R15 should be doable with the spring relocation and minitubs. It's had the rear quarters replaced in the past, and I have learned that the replacement quarters have a wider fender lip than OE. Pic is a 295/50 with too much backspacing on the 15x10 rims. VERY close on the frame rail.

What is the best way to roll the lip (hopefully without taking all the paint off)? I've heard of using a baseball bat... any other techniques?

View attachment 1715253590

This looks like a possibility and isn't expensive (although more than a bat) :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8XU03O/?tag=joeychgo-20
Click to expand...

WOW $45 that's a deal, there is no way you could make one for that price.
 
True... although if I screw it up, it'll cost even more to have a pro clean up my mess!
I'm also thinking of checking with the local body shops for their price...
 
I've always used a bat to roll them. good enough for chip Foose, good enough for me.

Darts you can run into a problem though.. if you run the wheel well trim pieces. In those case I trim it with a grinder with a sanding flap disc, NOT A CUTTING WHEEL. Then I hand sand everything so there are no sharp edges.

The inner wheel house actually becomes the tight spot, not the quarter lip.

20150430_150936.jpg
 
roccodart440 said:
I've always used a bat to roll them. good enough for chip Foose, good enough for me.

Darts you can run into a problem though.. if you run the wheel well trim pieces. In those case I trim it with a grinder with a sanding flap disc, NOT A CUTTING WHEEL. Then I hand sand everything so there are no sharp edges.

The inner wheel house actually becomes the tight spot, not the quarter lip.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. I am not using the trim. That car has way too much chrome for me already, but it looks "wrong" to leave it off in many places...

Chip Foose likely has a LOT more experience using a bat (or roller) than I do :p
The tightest spot is always somewhere, of course. With my minitubs and springs relocated into the frame rail, definitely it's the outer lip at this point.

What size tires are on your Dart?
 
DrCharles said:
Thanks for the tips. I am not using the trim. That car has way too much chrome for me already, but it looks "wrong" to leave it off in many places...

Chip Foose likely has a LOT more experience using a bat (or roller) than I do :p
The tightest spot is always somewhere, of course. With my minitubs and springs relocated into the frame rail, definitely it's the outer lip at this point.

What size tires are on your Dart?
Click to expand...
There's some videos on YouTube that I have watched.
 
That is a good price I'd buy it and try it. I have seen the old ways of using a bat or bar that looks very risky to me. Idk tho looks like a epic fail waiting to happen lol
 
DrCharles said:
The paint is about 2 months old, base/clear. Still heat it?
Click to expand...
dont know, maybe a paint guy could tell you. I think some paints have an elastomer in them to resist cracking. depends on paint?
 
I’d use a heat gun for the paint no matter what. Heating it won’t hurt it, it will only help your cause. If it cracks you’re screwed.

The rollers you can buy are pretty self explanatory, and they’re not hard to use. The big thing to keep in mind is to go slow, don’t try to roll the thing in one pass. Just take a little bite and work it back and forth, then add a little more step by step. If you try to push it all in one pass the paint is more likely to crack and you’re more likely to mess up the bodywork.

With a mini-tub and full 3” relocation 325’s should be fairly easy with the proper backspace. I’ve seen 335’s on cars with that set up, I’m a little surprised you even have to roll the quarters for those.
 
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