K-member drop details

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I've done it both ways. To me, honestly pulling the engine and trans together, or going in together is easier from the bottom. More time consuming and more things to remove and reinstall? Of course, but IMO still easier if removing or installing both, but either way works. Pick one and go, otherwise it'll just sit there.
 
or if u start with new tranny or used that get rebuilt . slack off on amount of fluid rebuilding a trans . when i rebuild I lube all parts b 4 u put in trans. re real rebuild id is clean valve body and all' no nasty on floor then down off lift ck an add . put in park raise rear wheels off floor 4qts at times neutral pumps works with tourque converter full. start run through gears reverse also ck fill as needed. then on lift and using speed o run with a few of down shifts that cks valve body done.
 
most all hipo stuff done 2 all mopars where done from and with a pre built and together car . but car together then add on. try. even hemi darts and cudas did not fit well.
 
While doing this, consider a few cheap parts to update. The steering coupler comes apart easy and new guts are avail for <$20. Re-use the gasket retainer since the new ones don't fit correctly. Since removing the T-bar, change the rear rubber boot. Polyurethane (Energy Suspension) will last much longer. Read tricks here to work it over the hex nut.
 
all right here my hangup, I can't figure out how to get this steering coupler apart. From pics I gather I should stick a drift in the hole and drive a roll pin out the other side. Trouble is there's no exit on the other side, no sign of a roll pin in the hole, and the hoke is threaded. There was a bolt loosely.in the hole, is this a different kind of retaining method? Should I be heating and prying instead?
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I see threads . stop lube try prying up and away from gear box. realy should have a role pin to drive out. once apart . correct someones been there b 4 . but kits 2 repare r cheap u should get a roll pin with. was sterring wheel off center ? but again a good alignment person can compensate 4. str wheel off center.
 
OK, looks like this is an older style unit. Reading the 65 manual it looks like what I need to do is loosen the steering column clamp at the dash and I'll be able to pull the shaft out of the coupler. And I think that's all I need to disconnect the K-member.
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
In over 40 years of dropping engines into Mopars, I have never once removed a hood.
The distance between the core support and fully opened hood is exactly enough to get a fully dressed engine through.
It's designed that way
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If it's a service replacement, I see it going "up". But if you're doing a car and assembling, out the bottom is THE way to do it. I did it out the top for 30 years. I've been taking them out and in from the bottom for the last couple years. Way easier to set things up, way less risk of damage to paint, IMO way faster.
 
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