273 intake vs. Edelbrock 1406 carb

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Crusty Brian

Crusty Brian

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  1. I've got a 67 dart GT with a 273 with factory intake manifold (casting 2536771 C.A.P.) I'm can't get the Edlebrock 1406 carb to seat right (vacuum leak on the passenger side). Do I need an adapter or something??? I'm dying over here!!!! (Timing is set to 10btc which the engine seems to like) Also, Hi, I'm new to the group ( although I've been stealing information off this site for years)
 
I'll chime in just because, like you I lurked this site a long time.. and you're dying over there. That said, I'm nothing compared to the brains on here :)
It sounds to me the base of the carb isn't square. And it's probably a dumb question, but have you checked the sqaureness of it with a straight edge? Metal ruler or something? Manifold too?
Did another carb seat ok?
How do you know it's leaking on the pass side?
 
Just to add a bit more to the mill, also check that your manifold has a flat and true mounting flange. When you tighten down the carb, do you do the cross method???...that is, finger-tight the right front nut, then the left rear, then the right rear, and finally the left front....then tighten in small amounts in the same order to optimum torque. Also, make sure it's a good flange gasket!

Just my thoughts.....

EDIT:...Also, check to make sure there's nothing hanging down from the carb, or sticking up from the manifold, that would cause it to not sit flat on the intake.
 
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That's what I run on mine. No problems. Welcome!
 
Sometimes you need a adapter. For one reason or another sometimes it's just clearance. But you definitely need the correct kickdown linkage adapter. The two barrel had a different throw on the kickdown linkage. There's some stuff you'll have to do there to make things correct.
Nice when you formally introduce yourself with a picture of your car and such and it makes people want to help more as you probably know from reading the forum...
Welcome..
 
Just checking ,did you remove the choke stat from the manifold? My 1406 wouldn't set flat , it was on the edge of stat. plate.
 
Identified the leak with the old water spray trick @ the base of carb. Tightened the base with the proper cross cross style. Choke stat is gone, I'm gonna double check flatness of mating surfaces
 
20190602_221227.jpg
 
10-15 before. If it pings or kicks back against the starter back it off a degree or two till you find the sweet spot.
 
Crusty Brian said:
Got one on the way! Probably see you cruising around
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Shouldn't need an adapter...I was running a Carter SuperQuad AFB (aftermarket) carb (same as an Eddy) on my 273 iron intake while I was rebuilding my '67 AFB....ran great!..no adapter.

Also, someone has played with that intake...should have 4 holes, not open plenum...that may be your problem....should look like this......

dsc04984-jpg.jpg
 
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65Val said:
Shouldn't need an adapter...I was running a Carter SuperQuad AFB (aftermarket) carb (same as an Eddy) on my 273 iron intake while I was rebuilding my '67 AFB....ran great!..no adapter.

Also, someone has played with that intake...should have 4 holes, not open plenum...that may be your problem....should look like this......

View attachment 1715345500
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DAMMIT I was sorta thinking the same thing about the holes
 
Cast iron is funny stuff. It can crack at the drop of a hat. If it was mine, I would clean up that carburetor pad up real good and get a magnifying glass and inspect it very closely. It may have a crack somewhere. Also, the carburetor pad on those is really low.....close to the top of the intake. I would also double and triple check that nothing on the carburetor is hitting the intake manifold and keeping it from tightening down all the way. I have run myself ragged in the past on that same intake and carburetor combination, only to find out that a carburetor fitting was turned so that one of the points of the fitting was holding the carburetor off the intake pad. All I had to do was turn the fitting so a flat was down and it went right on and sealed up. It may also help if you have the thick carburetor insulating gasket. They are over 1/4" thick. I would not run without one, because those carburetors are bad about heat soak.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Cast iron is funny stuff. It can crack at the drop of a hat. If it was mine, I would clean up that carburetor pad up real good and get a magnifying glass and inspect it very closely. It may have a crack somewhere. Also, the carburetor pad on those is really low.....close to the top of the intake. I would also double and triple check that nothing on the carburetor is hitting the intake manifold and keeping it from tightening down all the way. I have run myself ragged in the past on that same intake and carburetor combination, only to find out that a carburetor fitting was turned so that one of the points of the fitting was holding the carburetor off the intake pad. All I had to do was turn the fitting so a flat was down and it went right on and sealed up. It may also help if you have the thick carburetor insulating gasket. They are over 1/4" thick. I would not run without one, because those carburetors are bad about heat soak.
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Rusty...that intake uses the narrow carb bolt pattern...never seen a square bore insulator gasket with the narrow pattern.
 
65Val said:
Rusty...that intake uses the narrow carb bolt pattern...never seen a square bore insulator gasket with the narrow pattern.
Click to expand...

You have to use one from an early Chevy like from a early 60s Corvette with the 327. The little 4 jet had the same mounting flange.
 
So sorta update, the intake looks good (super clean and no cracks) and the carb isn't hanging up on anything. Buttttt, the secondaries are stuck about 1/4 open and wont budge. Although I can open them with a screwdriver but not close them. Could that be the issue?
 
Crusty Brian said:
So sorta update, the intake looks good (super clean and no cracks) and the carb isn't hanging up on anything. Buttttt, the secondaries are stuck about 1/4 open and wont budge. Although I can open them with a screwdriver but not close them. Could that be the issue?
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Well heck yeah.
 
The secondary throttle blades can be opened with a screwdriver pushing them open and get they do not contact the intake or gasket at all, correct?

Is the choke engaged? There is a secondary lock out that is activated when the primary choke plate is tilted/choke on.
 
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